How to Clean and Disinfect Your Home During COVID-19

How to Clean and Disinfect Your Home During COVID-19

Spring cleaning is typically the perfect time to sweep out the garage, reorganize the linen closet and wipe down the windows. But in Spring 2020, our cleaning goals are slightly different.

While shelter-in-place orders around the country may be giving families plenty of time to tackle those Marie Kondo-inspired tidying-up projects, these guidelines are essential to slow the spread of the novel coronavirus.

Here are some helpful cleaning strategies that may help you keep germs at bay, even if your family is in good health:

Protect Yourself

Remember to wear disposable gloves when you’re cleaning, and wash your hands before and after to help minimize the spread of germs. It’s also best to work in a well-ventilated space, as disinfecting chemicals can be very strong. Also, never mix cleaning chemicals as this can create toxic off gassing.

Clean First, Then Disinfect

The CDC explains that cleaning and disinfecting are two different things. Cleaning helps remove dirt, debris and other residue, whereas disinfecting helps kill bacteria and pathogens.

First, wipe down surfaces with a cleaning towel or soap and water to remove dirt. Then follow up by using an EPA-approved disinfectant or a diluted household bleach solution containing 4 teaspoons of unexpired bleach for each quart of water.

Your disinfectant will need to remain on the surface for a certain amount of time, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions. For a household solution, wait at least 1 minute.

Focus on High-Touch Surfaces

The CDC also recommends cleaning high-touch surfaces in high-traffic areas. These include bathroom and kitchen surfaces, faucets, doorknobs, hard-backed chairs, lightswitches, game controllers, computer keyboards and mobile devices.

Explore Cleaning Guides from HomeServe

If you’re like me and have become somewhat obsessive about keeping your house clean and wanting to try to keep the coronavirus at bay, check out the following HomeServe blogs for general cleaning tips and tricks that may help with hard-to-clean spots and surfaces.

Don’t forget to bookmark this post so you can come back to these helpful hints when next year’s Spring cleaning season comes around.

Cleaning Products to Use Around the House

Bathroom Cleaning Guides

Kitchen Cleaning Guides

Living Space Cleaning Guides

Prepare for the Unexpected With a Home Repair Plans

As you and your family follow shelter-in-place orders and spend more time at home, you’re counting on your essential home systems to stay in working order. Now, more than ever, your home is playing a major role as your living space, office, schoolhouse, play zone, fitness center and more. An unexpected home system breakdown could have consequences for all of these aspects of your life.

Being prepared for the unexpected with a repair plan from Service Lines Warranties of America is a good strategy.

What Is the Cost to Install a Water Heater?

What Is the Cost to Install a Water Heater?

A few months ago, I wrote about my water heater mishap. (I know I’ll never forget that feeling of a freezing cold shower). I’m glad to report that my new water heater is still providing our family with hot showers and clean laundry – but I’m always on the lookout for the signs it might need maintenance.

During the frigid winter months, it’s more important than ever to check in on your water heater. If you do catch a problem early on, or realize you need an entirely new system, you can be proactive in receiving repairs (and won’t be caught in a mid-shower frozen surprise).

From my experience, I learned that installing a water heater is half the battle – and the majority of the cost – of purchasing this essential system. Don’t settle for lukewarm showers and half-washed dishes. Here’s everything you need to know about the cost to install a water heater.

The tank vs. tankless debate

The fact of the matter is, installation costs depend on the type of water heater you need or already have. Home Depot breaks down two of the most popular choices for homeowners:

  • Traditional water heaters: Typically store between 20 and 80 gallons of water heated by gas or electric power. The average total cost for a new traditional water heater and installation is $1,308.

  • Tankless water heaters: Gaining popularity in recent years, these units are also fueled by gas or electricity but only heat water as needed. They’re accepted as being more environmentally friendly, though they come with higher upfront costs. The average total cost for a tankless water heater is around $3,000.

Total costs include everything from the unit itself, permits, materials, installation, labor costs and removal of the old unit. Thumbtack.com estimates the national average cost of installing a water heater ranges from $500 to $1,000.

What’s your fuel source?

Water heater installation costs aren’t just affected by the type of water heater chosen, but also by the fuel sources available. Both traditional and tankless heaters can use gas or electricity to warm up water. A gas water heater may cost $50-100 more to install than an electric tank water heater. Likewise, you can expect to pay $500 more for a gas tankless water heater than an electric water heater.

If you need – or want – to switch fuel sources, you’ll most likely need to add some room to your budget. Going from an electric to gas water heater may require the addition of a gas line, that usually costs $500 to install, reports Homewyse.com.

Other factors to consider

The size, model, home layout and any additional – necessary – work can all contribute to the costs associated with installing a water heater. Traditional water heaters may require expansion tanks to minimize the risk of pressure damage to the plumbing system. TheSpruce.com explains this is mostly needed in closed water supply systems, so always factor that into your water heater costs.

While tankless heaters come with higher upfront costs, they can require less maintenance in the long run and families can see energy costs decrease because water is heated on a need-only basis. Both kinds of water heaters have energy-efficient models available for more cost savings.

Though each system comes with its own unique costs, installation can also vary based on your needs and wants. Always make sure to do your research before deciding on the best water heater for your home and have a licensed professional install it.

See how plans from Service Lines Warranties of America can help with the costs of home repairs.

Thanksgiving Leftover Recipes Better Than the Holiday Meal

Thanksgiving Leftover Recipes Better Than the Holiday Meal

Remember that episode from Season 5 of “Friends” entitled “The One With Ross’ Sandwich” where Ross has an actual breakdown after someone steals his Thanksgiving leftovers? (One of my all time faves!)

Apparently, Ross had been looking forward to that Thanksgiving sandwich all year long – ‘cause it’s just that good.

While you binge on Netflix after the parade and pumpkin pie, wondering what to do with all those Thanksgiving leftovers, why not bookmark a few of my favorite post-Thanksgiving recipes?

My kids say these are better than Thursday’s turkey and stuffing — but I’ll leave it to you and yours to decide.

Breakfast

Try these low-carb stuffing waffles with a dollop of cranberry sauce. Or start your morning with Thanks Benedict, featuring stuffing cakes smothered in a sage hollandaise sauce, by one of my favorite chefs, Giada de Laurentiis.

For a weekend brunch with friends (and mimosas), I love making a sweet potato and kale frittata with creamy goat cheese, or this stuffing and turkey quiche.

The kids will adore breakfast sausage and stuffing bites — they’re so good you’ll want to pop a few before heading out for the Black Friday doorbusters.

Get a plan from Service Lines Warranties of America today

Soups and sandwiches

My favorite turkey soup is a creamy, one-pot recipe for turkey and dumplings. It’s a great way to use up whatever turkey meat and veggies you have left.

I also recommend this hearty leftover turkey chili recipe. With a bowl filled with leftover goodness plus edamame and a homemade spice mix, it’s a great way to help your taste buds (and waist line) transition out of the holiday weekend.

And, while you can easily throw together a turkey sandwich to relive the flavors of Thanksgiving Day, why not take it up a notch with a gooey brie, apple and cranberry grilled cheese sandwich? Simple but oh-so indulgent.

Savory pies

If you’re in the mood for comfort food, don’t miss this Thanksgiving shepherd’s pie. Or, remix the same festive flavors into a turkey pie with a cornbread stuffing crust.

I also can’t speak highly enough of Paul Hollywood’s ham and turkey pot pie. As seen on the Great British Baking Show holiday masterclass, it features a creamy sauce with leeks simmering beneath rough-puff pastry and looks as impressive as it tastes.

Get a plan from Service Lines Warranties of America today

For something quicker, pop these easy Thanksgiving leftover hand pies into the oven. They’re made with store-bought pie crust and the kids will enjoy crafting their own homemade hot pockets.

Pizza

Leftover pizzas are a serious crowd-pleaser! Layer up turkey and sides into a Thanksgiving pizza baked in puff pastry. This version is topped with fried onions for an extra crunch.

My kids always request this yummy mashed potato pizza with leeks and bacon crumbles, but I also like to make up another pizza with turkey, cranberries and barbeque sauce for the grown-ups.

Before you get busy using all your appliances in the kitchen, it’s a good idea to have an appliance home warranty plan in place – just in case there’s a breakdown. See how plans from Service Lines Warranties of America can help with the costs of home repairs.

DIY Shower Pressure Fixes

Low or declining shower pressure may be a frustrating situation. Fortunately, most of the causes of low shower pressure can be fixed quickly, easily and without a lot of personal expertise.

To determine the culprit behind this issue, there are a number of places to look. The best place to start is in the shower itself.

Here are some DIY shower pressure fixes you can complete without the assistance of a plumber:

Remove shower head sediment

Older homes may experience water pressure problems due to years of sediment build-up in the shower head.

You may be able to clean out an older shower head with a simple life hack: An eight-hour soak in vinegar. Inspect the shower head afterward to see if that fix solved the problem and clear any remaining debris manually. If you’re still experiencing low shower pressure, it’s probably time to buy a new shower head.

Adjust necessary valves

If you just moved into a new home, you might find the pressure isn’t to your liking because the builder or previous owner installed a low-flow shower head. Try removing the flow regulator to improve the water stream.

If the problem persists, the low shower pressure may be the result of a water-restrictive shower valve instead of the shower head itself. Adjusting the central shut-off valve may increase the pressure.

Check with your water provider

For homes that get their water from municipal sources, there may be a problem with the amount of water flowing into the property as a whole.

You can increase the flow of water into your home either from the curb-side main or via the one coming into the house. This should be done carefully, however, and may require a call to your water provider.

Look for leak

In some cases, valves themselves could be the source of the problem. If decades-old pipes start to leak, you’ll encounter reduced water pressure in not only the shower, but also throughout the whole home. However, those issues may only present themselves in the shower. If you have low water pressure in your home overall, you may have bigger issues to deal with, like an issue with your water service line.

If you discover any leaks in your home plumbing system, you can attempt to patch them up – if the pipes are relatively new – with little fuss. All you’ll need to do is shut off the water to that pipe, make sure it’s dry and apply either a tape- or epoxy-based sealant, available at most hardware stores, to the affected area of the pipe. Some patches may not be advisable for lines that supply drinking or shower water, so check the packaging to make sure you get the right one.

When You Might Need to Call a Professional

As we have discussed, many low shower-pressure issues can be fixed on your own with a quick trip to the local hardware store to buy a replacement shower head or valve, and a few DIY how-to videos.

Once you have completed these repairs by yourself, it’s a good idea to plan for the future. Should you have any future problems, having a home warranty for your interior plumbing and draining system is a good idea.

See how plans from Service Lines Warranties of American can help with the costs of home repairs.

Reasons to call a professional plumber

Not sure if you need the help of a professional plumber? If the issue falls under one of these scenarios, you should definitely call a professional for expert help.

When the water pressure is low

If the water in your home isn’t flowing at its normal pressure, there could be a blockage or leak in the system, fractured pipe or eroded waterline. It can be difficult for the typical homeowner to pinpoint an issue like this. A plumbing professional can identify the source of low water pressure and advise on appropriate solutions.

When there’s no hot water

If your water isn’t heating up efficiently, it’s likely a water heater problem. As these units run on electric or gas systems, it can be dangerous to do repair work on your own. Similarly, if there is no water at all, call a professional to determine the cause.

When you notice severe pipe issues

If you think you have blocked, burst or frozen pipes, call a plumber immediately. Look out for signs, such as strange noises when the tap runs, sewage smells coming from faucets, lack of water or frost on exposed pipes.

Blockages are typically caused by sediment buildup or large debris in the sewer line. DIY attempts to fix these issues can cause more damage, resulting in a much larger repair bill. Even worse, a failed repair to a broken sewer line can cause issues for an entire neighborhood.

When you hear concerning noises

If you hear an extremely loud noise coming from the pipes, it may be a sign that something in the system is broken or about to break. If you hear a gurgling sound coming from the drains or pipes, it can be a sign of a clogged or compromised plumbing system. The sounds will likely appear when you’re using the toilet, shower, washing machine or dishwasher. If you hear these sounds, turn off the water immediately. This step will prevent the system from backing up into the house until the plumber arrives to inspect the issue.

When you’re doing a home renovation project

If you’re renovating the bathroom, kitchen, laundry room or other areas of the house that involve plumbing, make sure you get professional advice before starting the project. Relocating or installing plumbing-related items, such as sinks or dishwashers, requires the correct placement of supply lines and drains. A plumber can tell you if your renovation plans are feasible and ensure you have the proper permits. With that advice, you could save money on a potential repair or re-installation.

When you notice water damage

Look out for signs of water damage, such as leaks, water stains and mold growth. It’s ideal to catch water damage before the mold growth gets too severe, as the fungus is a health and safety hazard. A plumber can determine the source of the moisture and perform appropriate repairs to prevent further mold growth.

When DIY solutions aren’t enough

There are easy DIY fixes to many common plumbing issues, such as leaky faucets or clogged drains. Keep these plumbing do’s and don’ts in mind if you are attempting to repair the issue on your own. However, if the problem persists even after you’ve tried to fix it, a more serious problem may require expert plumbing knowledge to repair.

If you’re uncomfortable performing DIY plumbing, never hesitate to call a professional – even if it’s for a simple fix. A mistake could lead to a more severe issue, so it’s better to save yourself the hassle and get it fixed properly the first time around.Being prepared before home maintenance issues arise is always a good strategy. 

See how plans from Service Lines Warranties of American can help with the costs of home repairs.

DIY plumbing: How to install a toilet

If you’re ready to put your handyman skills and toolbox to use, a toilet installation is a relatively simple job to start stretching your DIY muscles. Here are some tips you need to know about installing a toilet on your own.

Reasons to take on the project:

  • Replace or upgrade an old toilet
  • Remove and replace during remodeling
  • Save water and energy

If your toilet troubles are persistent, such as excessive clogging or cracking porcelain, the best option is to replace it. You can save money on your water bills by upgrading your unit to a low-flushing, energy-efficient model. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, toilets are responsible for 30 percent of a home’s average indoor water consumption. Look for the EPA’s WaterSense label for high-performing, water-efficient models. Be sure to measure your bathroom before purchasing so the new toilet will fit in your space.

How to remove the old toilet:

Keep your safety in mind, and try to avoid breaking the toilet as a way to remove it. Plus, if it isn’t in terrible condition, you can sell or donate the unit.

Here’s how to dismantle the toilet without breaking it:

  1. Turn off the water supply. The valve is on wall or floor behind the toilet.
  2. Drain all the water from the bowl. Start by flushing the toilet, then use a plunger, small cup or sponge to remove any excess water.
  3. Disconnect the supply line. Use a wrench to carefully release it.
  4. Remove the tank. Start with the lid, and then use a wrench to loosen the bolts at the bottom of the tank. Lift it straight up, but gently twist it side to side if you feel resistance.
  5. Remove the bowl.Take off the bolt caps at the base of the toilet, then use pliers or a wrench to remove the bolts. Gently rock the bowl back and forth until you can pick it up entirely.
  6. Clean the floor. Use a putty knife to remove any gunk from the floor and around the mounting flange. Wipe down the surface before installing the new toilet.

 How to install a new toilet:

Just like removing the old one, you’ll install the new one in pieces. Make sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions for any specific guidelines.

  1. Place the wax ring on the flange. Pro tip: Lowe’s recommended making sure the ring is warm before placing it, as it will be softer and easier to work with.
  2. Set and secure the bowl. Place the toilet bowl onto the flange, aligning it with the bolt holes. Place a washer and nut on each bolt, and tighten into place. Alternate from side to side to make sure you tighten them evenly. Be cautious of over-tightening, as this can crack the porcelain. Place the bolt caps, and use a sealant around the base of the toilet to secure its position.
  3. Install the tank. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for placing the rubber gasket (if it’s not already installed.) Insert the mounting bolts through the inside of the tank, and then place it into position. Alternate tightening the bolts, like you did on the base.
  4. Secure the toilet seat. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
  5. Reconnect the water supply line. Turn the water back on, and then flush the toilet to test your work.

Not everyone is a DIY type, but if you are, it’s definitely worth a shot. If during the task you find yourself becoming increasingly frustrated, don’t hesitate to call in a professional. Serious plumbing issues can become a huge inconvenience, so it’s never a bad idea to have a certified plumber check out the problem.

See how plans from Service Lines Warranties of American can help with the costs of home repairs.

A Homeowner’s Guide to Mold Removal

As a homeowner, you’re bound to deal with troublesome maintenance troubles. However, spotting problems early can help minimize the severity of the issues and protect your wallet from the burden of significant home repairs.

To catch and help avoid mold-related issues, here’s what you need to know about removing this common fungus from your home:

What is mold?

While it can be a nuisance inside your home, this fungus is a natural part of the environment. Mold can grow almost anywhere – on plants, food, wood, paper, carpet and tile grout – as long as there is moisture in the area. You’ve probably seen it darken the grout lines in your shower or build up on damp outdoor decks. The most common type of mold is mildew, which starts as little black spots and grows into a larger infestation. Black mold can be furry and possibly toxic, so homeowners should take extra precautions when trying to remove it. There’s also hidden mold, which you can usually smell even if you can’t see it.

Mold can occur at any time throughout the year, so, unfortunately, you and your home are always vulnerable. The fungus can cause health issues for you and your family, including allergic reactions, asthma and skin irritations, so it’s important to remove mold before it gets to be severe.

Can you clean mold?

With the right tools and precautionary measures, you can usually clean the surfaces where mold develops. Always wear a mask, goggles and gloves while cleaning to limit your exposure to the mold.

The first step for DIY mold removal is to dry the surface and vacuum any dust or debris. Then, scrub the mold off the surface with a bristle brush and mold cleaner, rinse and dry the area completely. For light surfaces, such as tile grout, you can use diluted chlorine bleach to remove the mold. According to The Maids, hydrogen peroxide, vinegar or baking soda are effective natural, non-toxic cleaners. However, if there is black mold, you may need to purchase a specific cleaner to disinfect the area. While these methods work for hard surfaces, keep in mind that absorbent materials with mold, such as ceiling tiles or outdoor seating cushions, should ideally be discarded and replaced.

How can you avoid mold?

Your cleaning efforts will go to waste if you don’t control the moisture in the area. To prevent mold from growing, start by identifying the source of the moisture, which could be leaks, condensation, humidity or poor ventilation. Once you know where the water is coming from, the key is to act quickly. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, you should fix plumbing leaks as soon as possible, and dry materials within a day or two of leaks or spills.

The EPA further recommends reducing the humidity levels in your home by 30 to 60 percent in order to decrease mold growth. To do so, make sure there is proper ventilation in all bathrooms, and take action by completing small steps like running the fan during and after your shower. Adding insulation to windows, doors, piping and floors can reduce condensation and improve the airflow inside your home. Dust also causes mold to grow, so make sure to clean your home regularly, focusing on baseboards, floorboards and air vents where dust is prone to build up quickly.

When should you call a professional?

When it’s ignored, mold can become excessive and cause health risks, so it’s never a bad idea to have your home inspected by a trained professional. Plus, while cleaning can be an effective temporary home mold removal solution, the mold may persist or you may experience plumbing or HVAC problems that only a professional can completely and safely repair.

Preparing for the future is the best line of defense when dealing with issues in and around your home. See how plans from Service Lines Warranties of American can help with the costs of home repairs.

8 Ways To Conserve Water At Home

Long showers feel great, but with every minute you spend pampering yourself, your wallet and the environment struggle. Along with saving money on your monthly bills, water conservation is critical for your community. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, it’s likely that at least 40 states will experience water shortages by 2024.

Follow these tips for how to save water at home:

1. Be mindful of running water.

Don’t keep the faucet running the entire time you’re brushing your teeth or washing your hands. You may have heard this one before, but it’s easy to lazily run the faucet instead of turning it off while scrubbing and then turning the tap back on when you’re ready to rinse. Similarly, avoid luxuriously long showers. Try to limit shower time to 10 to 15 minutes maximum to prevent wasting excess gallons of water.

2. Fix leaks as soon as possible.

Look out for leaky faucets, dripping water from shower heads, rusting pipes and signs of water damage.Locate the source of the leak, and fix it immediately to avoid wasting more water.

3. Don’t let the toilet run.

If you notice that your toilet is constantly running, try replacing the flapper. Simply shut off the water to the toilet, and flush to drain the tank. Unhook the old flapper from the base of the tank and chain, and then replace it with the new one. Turn the water back on, and you’re all set. If that doesn’t work, it may be time to buy a new toilet. Look for an energy-efficient model, and follow these steps to remove the old unit and install the new one.

4. Wash full loads only.

Make sure the dishwasher and washing machine are full before you run them. If you have a unit with energy-saving settings for light washes and smaller loads, take advantage of them. When it’s time to invest in a new machine, look for water-saving models with the settings that allow you to adjust to load size.

5. Use a compost bin.

An in-sink garbage disposal needs a lot of water to work efficiently, so opt for a compost bin instead. It’s healthier for the environment while reducing water waste and increasing the energy efficiency of your home.

6. Insulate pipes.

Be sure to insulate exposed pipes around the house, especially in the attic and basement. When they’re not insulated, it takes longer for water to heat up, meaning it’s running for longer periods of time. You can also cover the water heater with insulating blanket to further speed up the process.

7. Run the sprinklers in the morning.

The optimal time to water your lawn is early morning. This strategy prevents rapid evaporation from midday heat, which means less water is required to sufficiently cover the grass. Avoid rogue sprinklers wasting water by spraying the sidewalk or side of the house, instead positioning them to face the grass and landscaping appropriately.

8. Perform routine appliance maintenance.

Proper appliance care and upkeep can prevent potential leaks and wasted energy. This preventative maintenance includes regular cleaning and seeking professional advice when necessary. Plus, if it’s time for an upgrade, buy energy-saving products and appliances. According to the EPA, the average household can use about 20 percent less water with water-efficient fixtures and appliances.

Complement your water conservation at home with these ways to increase energy efficiency. With mindful changes, you can reduce your carbon footprint and save money each month.

If you notice spikes in your water bill, serious leaks or other maintenance issues during your water conservation efforts, don’t hesitate to call a professional.

See how plans from Service Lines Warranties of American can help with the costs of home repairs.

How to Fix a Screen Door

I grew up in a house with an outside deck. So I have many fond memories of sitting outside on warm, sunny days, reading and enjoying the view of my neighborhood. I would often open the sliding deck door to the adjacent living room while keeping the screen door shut so I could hear music from the living-room stereo without worrying about insects sneaking to the indoors.

So when that screen door started showing signs of wear and tear, my mom would complain how my brother and I were to blame (“too much rough housing” she would say) and “how in the world am I going to fix it?” What mom didn’t know is that while trying to patch a ripped screen door can seem difficult, it’s actually not so hard to fix.

We’ve compiled a list of common issues and helpful DIY remedies to make screen-door repairs a breeze:

Screen replacement 101

Because the screens in most screen doors consist of lightweight fiberglass, tears in the material are hardly unheard of, according to Popular Mechanics. Fortunately, they’re also easy and fairly inexpensive to replace. Your local hardware store will almost definitely have a replacement screen that fits your door. They’ll also have the specialized tool for dealing with spline – the rubber tubing that surrounds the perimeter of a screen and keeps it affixed to the door frame.

Let’s go step by step:

  1. Remove the old screen by lifting it away from the track-mounted rollers. Pull the bottom of the material out and then lower the door until the screen clears the top edge of the frame.
  2. From there, you can cut your own portion of screen material from a large roll, as HGTV noted, or purchase an a la carte pre-cut screen from your local hardware store.
  3. Next, unscrew the door’s handle, then remove the segments of spline surrounding the door frame with an awl. (Don’t get rid of your spline if it doesn’t show signs of damage, as intact spline can be reused.
  4. Use a screwdriver to remove the rollers and reattach either new or existing spline.
  5. Align the replacement screen with the frame, using the spline tool’s convex and concave rollers to press the rubber tubing into the frame grooves.
  6. Fit the screen snugly into the splined frame.
  7. Finally, trim any excess fiberglass and reattach any parts of the door (latch, rollers, panel and so on) you might’ve removed.

Learn More About Home Repair Plans Near You

Dragging wheels and other irritations

If opening your sliding screen door is a chore – it moves slowly, creaks or doesn’t close all the way – it’s time to remedy that situation. (Especially if you want to avoid insect intruders.)

The culprit behind the dragging screen is frequently worn-down or broken wheels along either the top or bottom edge of the door’s frame, according to The Family Handyman. But just like a torn screen, this problem isn’t too hard to remedy – and neither are some other issues that may be at play.

  • Make sure the wheel track is clean and unobstructed.
  • Addressing a jammed track is even easier than a wheel replacement: just clear any debris or dirt from it. If the track is bent, straighten it with a pair of pliers.
  • Check the screws holding the wheels in place – if they’re too loose or too tight, adjust as necessary.
  • Don’t forget to check the sliding screen’s top row of wheels. Because of their location, they don’t experience as much wear and tear, but better to be safe than sorry.

If these steps don’t address the issue, you probably need to change the wheels. As with replacement screens, you can easily find spare screen-door wheels at most hardware stores. To start, remove the screen door from its tracks. From there, you can unscrew the old wheels, affix your replacements to the door and put the adjusted door back in place. Ideally, it should move smoothly from then on.

Worst-case scenario

A screen door that is damaged beyond repair will need to be completely replaced. You can call your local hardware store, handyman, or big box retailer to find a new screen door that works for you.

Being prepared for home repairs before they arise is always a good strategy. See how plans from Service Lines of America can help with the costs of covered repairs.

Ever Wonder What A Dishwasher Air Gap Is?

I’ll admit it, I never thought about the inner workings of my dishwasher until it started giving me issues, and I had to figure out why the dishes weren’t coming out clean. When someone asked me if I’d checked the “dishwasher air gap”, I had no idea what they were talking about. So, that prompted me to Google how dishwashers work. (I’m somewhat of a self-proclaimed expert now.)

What I learned is: Your dishwasher is connected to the same plumbing infrastructure as the rest of your kitchen, meaning it’s eerily close to the dirty drain water that flows down your sink. If there’s a clog in your drains, that dirty water could flow back up into your dishwasher, contaminating your kitchen’s sanitation haven. Lucky for you, the dishwasher air gap is there to prevent such an unfortunate event from plaguing your appliance.

So what is a dishwasher air gap anyway?

Usually fitted to an existing hole on the sink or countertop and covered with a decorative cap, a dishwasher air gap connects to hoses below the sink or countertop. One is the dishwasher drain hose and the other typically connects to the sink’s drain pipe or garbage disposal.

As the unit runs, the dishwasher pump pushes wastewater to the air gap so it can exit through the drain hoses. If there is a backup or build up in pressure, the air gap also pushes fresh air into the hoses to prevent dirty water to flow back into the dishwasher. The process is essential for preventing cross-contamination between pipes and backflow into the dishwasher.

Does your dishwasher have an air gap?

I know, after all this talk about dirty sink water, why wouldn’t you want to have a dishwasher air gap? Well, some building codes only require minimal ventilation systems, so if you can’t find an air gap in your kitchen, odds are your area doesn’t consider it a compulsory component. However, if you’re planning on installing a new dishwasher any time soon, be sure to check local building and plumbing codes to determine if you should be including an air gap.

Do you need to do anything with the air gap?

Your dishwasher air gap will generally get on with its business with little necessary maintenance. However, cleaning it regularly can prevent blockage issues. To do so, simply remove the cover and unscrew the plastic cap. DoItYourself.com recommended removing the air gap entirely so you can flush it with water and wipe away debris. While you have visibility to the hoses, check it for clogs. If you see any signs of trouble, you can remove them to rinse and dry. Once you get everything back in place, be sure to check for leaks during the next dishwasher cycle.

If you want to install an air gap for your existing dishwasher, you can purchase a kit and follow this step-by-step guide from SFGate Home Guides. Alternatively, a licensed plumber can easily handle the project.

Maintaining the air gap goes hand in hand with overall dishwasher upkeep. For instance, loading your dishwasher correctly and cutting down on excessive water use can boost the appliance’s efficiency. And while it may feel a tad counterintuitive, you should clean your entire dishwasher about once a month.

Being prepared for home repairs is always a good strategy. See how plans from Service Line Warranties of America can help with the costs of water sewer line repairs and replacements.

Why Does My Shower Smell Like Sewage?

Why Does My Shower Smell Like Sewage?

Nothing ruins a nice, hot shower like the smell of sewage emanating from your shower drain. Sewer smells or other foul odors coming from your shower, while not always a cause for alarm, are anything but pleasant.

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If your shower smells like sewage and you’re not sure why, you’ll want to get to the bottom of things, stat. Read on for a list of some of the most common culprits of shower drain smells along with how to fix them.

Why Does My Shower Smell Like Sewage?

1. P-Trap Problems

If you notice your shower drain smells like sewage, the P-Trap is on of the first places you’ll want to check, since dirty or dry P-traps are often to blame for stinky shower drains. Despite its name, a P-trap is actually a U-shaped piece of pipe that lies beneath the rest of the drain’s pipeline and holds water to stop sewer gases from traveling up through the drain and into your bathroom. But a dirty P-trap that’s blocked by buildup like hair and soap scum can’t do its job properly. Another P-trap-related issue that can make your drain smell like sewage is a dry P-trap, usually caused by a clogged ventilation line or other problem with your plumbing vent.

If you suspect a dirty P-trap is sending sewer gases into your shower, first try cleaning the P-trap with a simple baking soda and vinegar combo, very hot (but not boiling) water or, if you must, a chemical drain cleaner. Be sure to run water down the drain for a bit to thoroughly rinse afterward. However, if a dry P-trap is the issue, you’ll need to call in a professional plumber to take a look at the plumbing’s vent line.

2. Drain Clogs

A drain clog is another common culprit when it comes to a stinky shower. Drain clogs occur when shower debris — like hair, soap scum, mineral deposits and oils (the same particles that can cause problems in your P-trap) — build up and slow the flow of the drain, causing more debris to accumulate that begins to smell over time. One thing to note with drain clogs is that they can produce a variety of odors but, oftentimes, as this build up breaks down, it releases hydrogen sulfide, causing a sulfuric, eggy smell that is unpleasant to say the least.

If you suspect a drain clog, try using a drain snake to remove the debris buildup. If shower drain clogs are a consistent issue in your shower, consider purchasing a drain strainer to help prevent future clogs. You can also, again, try pouring very hot water down the shower drain to help rid it of any residual soap and oil buildup that the drain snake may have missed.

3. Bacterial Buildup

If your shower tile or drain has a film of bacterial buildup that has collected over time, it could potentially cause a musty or unpleasant, sewer-like smell. Biofilm is a bacteria that can attach to shower tiles or stalls, and in and around your shower drain, accumulating over time.

If there’s an odor in your shower and you aren’t sure it’s a sewer smell, you might try cleaning your shower tiles and your drain to see if eliminating bacteria buildup helps kill the stench. Try scrubbing your shower and drain cover with an antimicrobial disinfectant cleaner. If you want to take this a step further, you can detach your drain cover and use a paint roller cover to vertically clean the sides of your drain pipe with that same disinfectant to help wash away any biofilm buildup. A steam cleaner, which can usually be rented from your local home improvement store, is another option.

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Can I Fix It Myself (and, If So, How?) or Do I Need a Plumber?

Whether you can tackle your shower’s sewer smell on your own will depend on the scope and specifics of your particular issue, but for many of these problems you can try addressing them inexpensively and independently first, either with a drain snake, a baking soda/vinegar wash, or a deep clean. None of these is likely to cause any harm, even if they don’t solve the sewer smell in your bathroom. If the problem persists after you try your at-home remedies, it’s time to call a plumber to investigate the issue further.

So Long, Sewer Smell!

Sewer smells in your shower are an unpleasant business. But the good news is that, in many instances, they can be dealt with fairly easily and affordably, without having to call in the pros. If your home remedy doesn’t help or you have recurring issues with shower drain smells in your bathroom, you’ll obviously want a plumber to take a closer look. Either way, once you’ve addressed the issue and sent that shower drain smell back from whence it came, then congratulations! Reward yourself by taking a lovely, long shower that no longer offends your olfactory system. Ahhh, it smells like … victory.

AC Icy? Here’s Why Your Air Conditioner Is Frozen (and How to Fix It)

AC Icy? Here’s Why Your Air Conditioner Is Frozen (and How to Fix It)

Despite sounding counterintuitive, an air conditioner that freezes despite the scorching summer heat is a surprisingly common occurrence. Along with visible ice on the outside of the AC, frozen refrigerant or evaporator coils on the inside of the unit can cause your air conditioner to blow warm, instead of cold, air into your home. It can even result in expensive damage to the compressor if you continue to run the air conditioner while it’s frozen.

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Read on to learn what causes an air conditioner to freeze, how to fix it, and how to prevent your AC from freezing in the future.

What Causes an AC Unit to Freeze?

Frozen air conditioners are usually caused by:

Poor Airflow

The most common reason for an AC unit freezing is inadequate airflow. Without warm air moving across the evaporator coils, the coil’s temperature will drop and cause them to freeze. Poor airflow also allows the humidity in the air to collect on the coils, which increases their likelihood of freezing. Airflow issues can be caused by a dirty air filter, dirty evaporator coils, a weak or malfunctioning blower, closed or obstructed vents or ductwork that’s clogged, collapsed, leaking or undersized.

Low Refrigerant Levels

Low refrigerant levels from a leak in the system will lower the temperature in the refrigerant lines and cause them to freeze over. If you see bubbles on your refrigerant lines or hear a hissing noise coming from them, you likely have a refrigerant leak. Unfortunately, fixing a refrigerant leak requires special tools and expert know-how, so it needs to be addressed by a professional HVAC technician.

Blocked Condensate Line

Air conditioners extract water vapor from the air in the process of removing heat, and the water that accumulates inside the unit is drained outside through a condensate line. If the condensate line becomes clogged, however, water will accumulate inside the unit and freeze. In addition to the AC being frozen, signs of a clogged condensate line include standing water or water damage around the indoor unit.

Cool Summer Nights

Operating your air conditioner when outside temperatures are below 60 degrees will drop the pressure in the refrigerant lines and cause them to freeze. This typically happens during cool summer nights when the air conditioner’s thermostat is set too low.

How to Fix a Frozen Air Conditioner

Step 1: Melt the Ice

Continuing to run your AC while it’s frozen can place a heavy demand on the unit’s compressor, possibly resulting in expensive damage or a reduced lifespan. Melt the ice by either turning the AC completely off, or by turning on the fan-only function if your unit has one. Using the fan will accelerate the thawing process by blowing warm air over all the unit’s internal components. In either case, it can take anywhere from a few hours to a couple of days for the ice to completely melt based on the extent of freezing, the size of your air conditioner and the surrounding air temperature.

Step 2: Check the Air Filter

Check the air filter to see if it’s clogged by holding it up to a source of light. If light doesn’t pass through it, it’s clogged and needs to be replaced. In addition to preventing your air conditioner from freezing, replacing the air filter can reduce the unit’s energy consumption by 5% to 15%.

Step 3: Clean the Coils

The AC filter is responsible for filtering out the dirt, dust, pet hair and other airborne particles from your home before it reaches the evaporator coil. However, some of it will inevitably slip through, especially if the filter is dirty. When that happens, these particles will accumulate on the coils and result in freezing from inhibited airflow.

If there’s a lot of visible grit and grime on your condenser coil, you can clean it off by spraying an evaporator coil cleaner. While some formulas don’t need to be rinsed off after applying, others need to be flushed with water from a spray bottle. Check the manufacturer’s instructions before use.

Step 4: Check the Vents

Look around your home for supply and return vents that are closed or obstructed. Any vents that are closed — even in unused rooms— should be opened. Check underneath rugs, behind furniture and under heavy drapes for vents that may be blocked.

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Step 5: Clear the Drain

While unclogging a condensate line may require professional assistance, you can attempt to clear the clog yourself with a wet-dry vacuum equipped with a special attachment.

Start by locating the open end of the condensate line, which is usually a 3/4-inch PVC pipe found near the outdoor compressor unit. If you have a wet-dry vac with a standard 2.5-inch hose, you can install an AC condensate line attachment onto it to suck the clog out of the line. Simply connect the 2.5-inch side of the attachment to the vacuum hose and the 3/4-inch side to the condensate line, then run the shop vac for three minutes to clear the clog.

Step 6: Set the Thermostat

Set the temperature on your thermostat to no lower than 65 degrees so the unit will shut off before outdoor temperatures dip below 60. Instead of using your AC during cool summer nights, consider opening up some windows instead.

Step 7: Turn on the AC and Test

After you’ve performed all of the above steps, turn the air conditioner back on and monitor it for evidence of freezing in the coming days or weeks. If it freezes up again, you may need to have the underlying issue addressed by a professional HVAC technician.

If All Else Fails: Call an HVAC technician

While you can tackle many causes of a frozen air conditioner yourself, some need to be handled by a professional technician. If your AC continues to freeze over after completing the above steps, you will need to have it inspected by a professional to identify and fix the underlying cause. An HVAC technician will be able to:

  • Repair leaking or damaged refrigerant lines
  • Inspect, clean, repair or replace ductwork
  • Inspect, repair or replace a weak or malfunctioning blower
  • Thoroughly clean the evaporator coils
  • Clear a heavily obstructed condensate line

How Do I Keep My Air Conditioner From Freezing Up?

The best way to keep your air conditioner from freezing up is to replace the air filter every 30 to 90 days, depending on the quality of the filter, the size of your home, the number of people living in the house and whether you have pets. Check your filter every month and replace it whenever it’s clogged.

Set the temperature on your thermostat so that it shuts off before outdoor temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Have your HVAC unit inspected by a qualified HVAC technician every spring. They will be able to clean your evaporator coils and check the condition of your ducts, blower motor and refrigerant lines. Not only will this prevent your air conditioner from freezing, but it will also maximize the lifespan of your unit as well.

Should You Cover Your Central Air Conditioner in the Winter?

Should You Cover Your Central Air Conditioner in the Winter?

When winter rolls around, there’s no shortage of tasks for homeowners to check off their to-do lists to prep their houses for the coming cold. The amount of winterizing that’s necessary will depend on the climate you live in, along with the specifics of your home.

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One long-standing debate is whether or not you should cover your HVAC unit in the winter. We’re going to settle it, once and for all.

Do You Need to Cover Your Central AC Unit in the Winter?

It makes sense, in theory, to cover your AC unit to protect it from the elements in winter, particularly if you live in an area that sees a lot of snow and ice. But the truth is that modern HVAC units were built and tested to withstand extreme temperatures and precipitation. They are made with materials capable of handling winter weather and have built-in drainage to get rid of winter precipitation and snow melt, so contrary to what you may think, most outdoor AC units don’t actually need the protection of a cover during winter months.

In fact, covering your air conditioning unit during winter can do more harm than good, because it may trap moisture and condensation in the unit, which can lead to mold and rust. This is especially true for plastic covers, like a tarp, or covers made of other non-breathable materials that can similarly foster mold growth and corrosion. What’s more, snug, air-tight covers can be very appealing to critters looking for a spot to cozy up during cold winter months, and the last thing you want is mice or other rodents making a nest in your AC unit — and they can fit into smaller spaces than you might think!

When Should You Cover Your Air Conditioner?

Although an air conditioner cover isn’t necessary for winter months, it can be helpful to have some protection for your unit in the fall. Covering just the top portion of your unit with an outdoor AC cover in the fall can help keep leaves, twigs, nuts and other falling debris from getting lodged in your unit, which can cause problems down the line.

The key to covering your AC unit in the fall is to make sure the cover is breathable and only extends about six or so inches down the sides of the unit. You do not need a full unit cover to protect your AC unit from debris. This will ensure that although the top of your unit is protected, the unit still has plenty of room to breathe, preventing the trapped condensation buildup that can cause issues with rust or mold. You can also check with your HVAC manufacturer to see if there’s a specific weather shield top cover option that’s meant for your unit.

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Outdoor AC Cover Minimalism

Like most home maintenance, when it comes to winterizing, you want to keep your home protected without doing (or spending) more than necessary. And you certainly want to avoid doing something that may be harmful rather than helpful, which may be the case if you fully cover your HVAC unit in the winter with dense, non-porous cover.

Air conditioning covers for winter may seem like a good idea, but they simply aren’t necessary for most modern units, especially since many covers out there can trap moisture and cause long-term damage to your unit. Plus, a full, cozy unit cover may appeal to mice and other critters as a place to get away from the cold.

That said, covering the top of your unit in the fall to protect it from falling debris is not a bad idea, especially if your unit is in an area that receives a lot of tree detritus during the autumn months. If you do opt to cover your unit in the fall, just make sure to use a breathable top cover and remember to remove it before the first freeze of the season. Because when it comes to winterizing your HVAC unit, less really is more.

Get Your Mind on Your Gutters: Here’s Everything You Need to Know

Get Your Mind on Your Gutters: Here’s Everything You Need to Know

If you’re new to homeownership, you may not have given much thought to your gutters. Nevertheless, rain gutters play an essential role in keeping your home protected and free from water damage.

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Keeping your gutters cleaned and well-maintained will prevent clogs and ensure your gutters are doing their job properly. If you’re new to the gutter game, read this rundown on what they’re all about.

What Exactly Are Gutters For?

Gutters help protect your home by diverting rain, working to shield it from water damage. Gutters use a system of channels just below your roofline to send rain and other precipitation away from your home via downspouts. This helps keep water from collecting around your foundation or causing mold and mildew damage to your home’s siding.

What Are Gutters Made Of?

Most roof gutters are made of aluminum, vinyl or galvanized steel and tend to be installed toward the end of the home-building process. Gutters are pretty long-lasting, with a typical lifespan of 20 years or more, depending on the material and how well they’re maintained.

Although the cost varies quite a bit depending on your home’s specifics and the type of gutter system you choose, the average cost of a gutter replacement is around $1,500 (CAD 2,000) for both materials and installation, give or take a bit, depending on square footage. That said, if your house has a complicated roofline that requires a very sophisticated system, or if you want to upgrade to a higher-end, longer-lasting material for your gutters, you should expect to pay significantly more.

What About Gutter Guards?

You can also purchase gutter guards to go on top of your gutters to help protect them from excess leaf and debris buildup and to keep your rainwater flowing as it should. Gutter guards won’t remove the need for cleaning entirely, but you certainly won’t have to clean your gutters as often. While gutter guards will make maintaining your gutters easier, know that they can come with a pretty hefty price tag — around $15 (CAD 20) per square foot, or about $1,500 (CAD 2,000) more than gutters alone. That said, for a lot of folks, they are more than worth it for the time and effort they save on maintenance, especially for homes positioned under a lot of foliage.

Do You Need to Have Gutters?

In short, probably so. The overwhelming majority of homes need roof gutters to help protect the integrity of the home, but there are a few exceptions. Concrete houses, for example, may not need gutters, and homes with downward-sloping properties and extra-long roof overhangs (think 6 to 10 inches) may also be able to go gutter-free. Also, homes in extremely dry climates may not need the protection of gutters like most homes do, since they receive such little rain.

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What Are the Hazards of Clogged Gutters?

Keeping your gutters clean is important for several reasons. In addition to ensuring the gutters are flowing as they should, seasonal cleaning will also help keep your gutters from getting clogged. Clogged gutters can lead to mold and mildew buildup, ice dams in winter and pest issues, all of which can cause long-term damage to your gutters.

Basic Gutter Maintenance Tips

Regardless of how sophisticated or high-quality your gutter system might be, clean gutters are key to making sure they are functioning their best. In general, you should plan to clean your gutters at least twice a year, ideally during fall and spring. Cleaning out your rain gutters toward the end of fall helps prevent clogs and gives you the chance to remove leaves, pinecones, branches and other debris that have accumulated and ensure the gutters are ready for the coming winter.

Fall is also a good time to check that your gutters are free of holes or other damage and still solidly attached to your home. When winter hits, you want your gutters in good shape, so that they can handle whatever snow and ice the cold weather brings. Early spring is also a good opportunity to check in on your gutters to make sure they didn’t suffer any damage from the weight of winter precipitation. Check for rust, dents, sagging or loose pieces while your gutters are empty. Spring tends to bring rain, so you’ll want your gutters clean and well-functioning so that they can do the work of diverting all that rainfall away from your home to protect your siding and foundation.

Maintenance Matters Most

Whether you have top-of-the-line gutters that were installed in recent years or a basic gutter system from decades ago, creating a regular cleaning and inspection schedule will help keep your gutters performing as they should. As with other aspects of homeownership, preventive maintenance is key to gutter longevity and avoiding spending extra money on repairs down the line.

How Much Does Sod Cost to Install?

How Much Does Sod Cost to Install?

There’s nothing quite like a healthy lawn. When it’s warm out, it’s the place to be — perfect for games of catch, family picnics and other recreation. And even as it gets colder, a robust lawn can assist in protecting the ground and preventing erosion, as the grass roots help water to safely enter the soil. In addition, a well-maintained lawn looks good, improves curb appeal and even increases the value of your home. Put simply: Investing in your lawn is a fertile pursuit.

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Whether you’re starting from scratch, or repairing an old, patchy greenspace on your property, one of the best ways to get a great-looking lawn quickly is to install sod. Read on to learn about what sod is, the different types and the associated costs.

Is Sod Real Grass?

In essence, sod is farm-grown grass that’s been carefully cultivated and then removed with a thin layer of soil and roots that hold it together. It’s cut into even sections, and then rolled so that the sod is ready to be shipped to its destination. The sod is then unfurled on top of soil, where it takes root.

For lawn-ready homeowners looking to maximize their time and energy, sod is certainly a desirable option. Laying sod is instantly gratifying. While it may not yet be ready for heavy use, quality sod looks impressive right after unrolling it and placing it in the yard. Already healthy and weed-free, with regular watering, sod can be ready for full use in about two weeks.

Despite the near-instant gratification it provides, like all home landscaping projects, laying sod can feel like a daunting process. And, if you haven’t planned accordingly, a sod installation project can quickly get expensive. It pays to have a little knowledge about sod installation as you begin your project to help prevent overspending and other surprises along the way.

How Much Does Sod Cost to Install?

Because sod grass is carefully cultivated on specialized farms, it’s almost always more expensive than seeding a lawn. Of course, that makes sense since you’re paying a farm to grow the grass for you. According to Lawn Love, sod costs around 35 cents to 80 cents (CAD 0.48 to CAD 1.10) per square foot.

Estimate roughly $100 to $500 (CAD 140 to CAD 700) per sod pallet, according to Thumbtack. A sod pallet covers around 450 square feet. That translates to roughly $3,000 to $7,000 (CAD 4,200 to CAD 9,600) for a one-fifth-acre lawn for the sod itself. Add in professional installation, and you’re looking at $8,000 to $16,000 (CAD 11,000 and CAD 22,000) for the same size lawn.

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Types of Sod

One of the biggest cost drivers per square foot of sod is the type of grass you install. And while this decision can depend in part on personal preference, it’s more often subject to your zip code as well as the amount of available sun and shade your area receives. Other factors impacting sod choice include climate and the average amount of precipitation in the area.

For example, fescue and Bahia grass are two of the more popular types of grass in the Southeastern United States due to their low price point and resilience amid heat and humidity. Zoysia and palmetto grass, on the other hand, are softer, more delicate grasses that thrive in shaded, cooler areas. Bermuda grass, another common choice throughout the U.S., is a great sod grass for hot, dry desert climates due to its natural resistance to drought. Chances are, wherever you live, there’s a sod farm relatively close by that grows the best types of sod for your climate.

How Much Sod Do You Need?

The size of your sod installation project is perhaps the most significant factor in determining how much it will cost. Obviously, the larger the square footage of the project, the more it will cost. Because of this, you’ll want to be extra careful not to buy more sod than you’ll need. Unfortunately, that’s not always as easy as it sounds.

Much like laying tile or hanging wallpaper, sod rolls must be cut to fit certain areas of your lawn, so you may end up needing more rolls than you think. Because of this, professional sod installation services recommend that you purchase 5% more sod than you anticipate needing for the project. Fortunately, there are several online sod calculator apps that can help you determine how much sod you’ll need to purchase.

Should You Hire a Professional?

Another factor that affects the cost of your sod project is whether you choose to install it yourself. As you can imagine, hiring a pro for your sod installation comes with its own set of perks. Contracting out the job allows you to sit back and relax, trusting that the job will be done correctly. A professional will typically remove your old grass, prepare and fertilize your soil and, finally, lay the new sod. It goes without saying that this service comes at a price: On average, homeowners can expect to pay 55 cents to $1 (CAD  0.75 to CAD 1.38) per square foot for professional sod installation, not including the cost of the sod itself.

That said, laying sod is a doable project for those who are up to the task. It’s a bit of a workout, and it will likely take you longer to tackle than it would a professional. However, you’ll save a lot of money, and when you’re finished, you can bask in the self-satisfaction of having completed the project yourself.

Still, you’ll need to keep in mind that there are other costs associated with a do-it-yourself sod installation besides purchasing the sod itself. For example, once you remove the old grass and weeds from the project area, you’ll need to loosen the dirt significantly. While you can use a shovel or a mattock to do this, it’s much quicker and easier if you use a rototiller. If you don’t have access to a rototiller, you can rent one from your local equipment rental store for roughly $63 (CAD 87) a day.

While the lawn is bare and the soil loose, it might be a good idea, here, to test your soil to figure out what kind of fertilizer you’ll need to use after you lay the sod. You’ll also want to purchase a sod knife for the job, which typically costs around $18 (CAD 25).

Plan Ahead, Follow Through

In essence, sod installation is as simple as it sounds: You lay the sod down and let it take root. But, like any project, it can sometimes be worth it to hire a pro. If you have an especially large lawn, if your lawn is in an odd shape, or if you aren’t up to the physical demands, calling a professional might be the best decision. Whatever route you choose, make sure to care for your new sod with proper watering and by avoiding heavy traffic in those first few weeks. It’s a massive bummer to invest time and money in a project only to have to turn around and redo large portions of it.

By planning accordingly, a sod installation project doesn’t have to be prohibitively expensive. In fact, with a little knowledge and planning, you can be on your way to enjoying the myriad benefits of a healthy lawn.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

How Much Does a Sprinkler System Cost?

How Much Does a Sprinkler System Cost?

If you work hard on your home’s landscaping, installing some kind of home irrigation system might be the best way to ensure your toils don’t go to waste. An irrigation system can keep your lawn green, your flowers and shrubbery thriving, and can even increase the value of your home. What’s more, new smart irrigation systems can connect with weather forecasts and use sensing technology to keep water usage to a minimum. Still, these systems can cost as much as $7,000 for professional installation, so deciding to put one in should be carefully mulled over.

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Here are some things to consider as you’re thinkin’ ’bout sprinklin’:

Do You Need a Sprinkler System?

It might seem like an obvious answer, but understanding your need for a sprinkler system is an important part of this process. You’ll want to take into consideration what your actual watering needs are. Do you live in a place that gets plenty of rain? Do you have a large lawn that needs coverage, or are there only a few areas that need consistent moisture? Is your yard planted with local vegetation that can withstand the weather fluctuations in your area, or do you have specialized plantings that need extra attention?

A good way to determine how often your grass needs water is simply to step on it: If it springs back, then it’s fine but if not, it needs to be watered. By conducting this simple test over a few weeks, you’ll get a sense of just how much of a water deficit there may be in your yard.

While installing a sprinkler system might seem like an efficient way to keep your plantings and grass healthy, according to a study by the American Water Works Association (as reported by the EPA), the most water-efficient way to keep your yard at the proper moisture level is to use a hose. The group says that manually watering with a hose will use 33% less water outdoors than average household usage, while in-ground sprinklers cause 35% more usage. Even more surprising is that sprinkler systems on timers actually use 47% more water than normal.

That being said, if you set up and use your sprinkler system with water usage in mind, you can cut down significantly on the amount you use of this particular natural resource. Plus, if you’ve spent a good amount of money on your landscape, the extra water costs might outweigh the risk of losing precious grass or plants.

One of the key steps you can take to have a sprinkler system function properly is to set it up with zones — a specific set of water outlets to a specific area of your yard. That lets you give low-water usage plants less moisture, while delivering greater amounts to grasses or other plantings that need it.

Are You a Drip…

There are basically two types of irrigation systems for your yard: drip and sprinkler. Drip systems consist of a long stretch of either flexible or rigid tubing that runs to a specific part of your yard. The tubing can be either above ground or buried 2 inches below ground. Water travels through the tube and slowly leaks out into the surrounding soil, which has the benefit of feeding the roots of your greenery directly.

According to the AWWA, drip irrigation systems use just 16% more water than standard households versus 35% for normal sprinkler systems — so they’re also more water efficient. Part of the reason is that sprinklers broadcast water over a large area, which means some of that moisture is lost to evaporation; drip systems avoid this problem. That being said, drip systems are really best for watering specific areas of your yard, such as flower beds, rather than an entire lawn, which can be better served by the greater range of a sprinkler system.

According to Lawn Love, you can expect to pay an average of $223 to $2,000 (CAD 306 to CAD 2,745) per watering zone for a drip irrigation system with the tubing above ground, and about $815 to $4,335 (CAD 1,118 to CAD 5,950) per acre for a system with buried tubes, which is helpful if you’ll be mowing the area where it’s installed.

…Or Are You More of a Sprinkle?

The second major type of home sprinkler system is one that uses a series of sprinkler heads sunk in the ground and spaced apart to provide broad irrigation coverage. These systems consist of a main water line and a series of branch lines that travel to the individual sprinkler heads.

The ultimate cost of a sprinkler system is determined by a number of factors, including how easy it is to dig the trenches in your yard, how many zones and heads you’ll need, whether you’ll do the job yourself, and whether local building codes require you to hire a plumber to connect the system to your home’s water supply.

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DIY or Pro

According to data from Lawn Love, a professionally installed sprinkler system for an average yard measuring 1,000 to 3,000 square meters will run between $500 and $1,500 (CAD 700 and CAD 2,100). Doing the job yourself, however, would save significant cash, ringing up at around $130 to $260 (CAD 180 to CAD 360). If your landscape watering needs are relatively simple, or you only need to sprinkle a portion of your yard, you may very well wish to go it alone.

One important consideration to take into account before you begin is to measure your home’s water pressure, which you can do by attaching a pressure gauge to your hose bib. Most sprinkler systems best operate around 30 psi (pounds per square inch of pressure) or more, so if your pressure is lower than that, you’ll need a system designed for a more minimal flow.

Keep in mind that a pro may be able to bring benefits to the job that you might not otherwise be able to take advantage of. Pros know their way around local permitting laws, will work with a plumber if needed to get your system installed legally, and will be aware of which parts of your yard to avoid due to water lines or other utilities. A good irrigation system installer will also help you plan the number of sprinkler heads and zones you’ll need for your particular area of the country and the types of plants you have. If you’re still in the planning stages of your landscaping project, pros can also provide input in terms of what to plant where to minimize water usage.

Smart Vs. Not

Beyond choosing either a drip or sprinkler system, and choosing the right sprinkler heads for your needs (which are inexpensive at around $45 (CAD 60) for a pack of four), you’ll also want to decide what kind of control system you’d like your system to run off of. Thumbtack says this can be as simple as a heavy-duty sprinkler timer that clicks your system on and off at the same time each day — which could cost as little as $50 (CAD 70) for a six-zone controller — to a modern “smart” system that connects to the internet and special in-ground sensors to adjust your watering schedule based on weather forecasts and soil saturation. A smart sprinkler controller should run in the range of $60 to $300 (CAD 80 to CAD 415), depending on the features you need.

The number of zones you set up will also factor into the final cost for your project. According to HomeGuide, every additional zone you add to a system will run about $300 to $700 (CAD 415 to CAD 960) in extra expense.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

How Much Does a Sprinkler System Cost?

How Much Does a Sprinkler System Cost?

If you work hard on your home’s landscaping, installing some kind of home irrigation system might be the best way to ensure your toils don’t go to waste. An irrigation system can keep your lawn green, your flowers and shrubbery thriving, and can even increase the value of your home. What’s more, new smart irrigation systems can connect with weather forecasts and use sensing technology to keep water usage to a minimum. Still, these systems can cost as much as $7,000 for professional installation, so deciding to put one in should be carefully mulled over.

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Here are some things to consider as you’re thinkin’ ’bout sprinklin’:

Do You Need a Sprinkler System?

It might seem like an obvious answer, but understanding your need for a sprinkler system is an important part of this process. You’ll want to take into consideration what your actual watering needs are. Do you live in a place that gets plenty of rain? Do you have a large lawn that needs coverage, or are there only a few areas that need consistent moisture? Is your yard planted with local vegetation that can withstand the weather fluctuations in your area, or do you have specialized plantings that need extra attention?

A good way to determine how often your grass needs water is simply to step on it: If it springs back, then it’s fine but if not, it needs to be watered. By conducting this simple test over a few weeks, you’ll get a sense of just how much of a water deficit there may be in your yard.

While installing a sprinkler system might seem like an efficient way to keep your plantings and grass healthy, according to a study by the American Water Works Association (as reported by the EPA), the most water-efficient way to keep your yard at the proper moisture level is to use a hose. The group says that manually watering with a hose will use 33% less water outdoors than average household usage, while in-ground sprinklers cause 35% more usage. Even more surprising is that sprinkler systems on timers actually use 47% more water than normal.

That being said, if you set up and use your sprinkler system with water usage in mind, you can cut down significantly on the amount you use of this particular natural resource. Plus, if you’ve spent a good amount of money on your landscape, the extra water costs might outweigh the risk of losing precious grass or plants.

One of the key steps you can take to have a sprinkler system function properly is to set it up with zones — a specific set of water outlets to a specific area of your yard. That lets you give low-water usage plants less moisture, while delivering greater amounts to grasses or other plantings that need it.

Are You a Drip…

There are basically two types of irrigation systems for your yard: drip and sprinkler. Drip systems consist of a long stretch of either flexible or rigid tubing that runs to a specific part of your yard. The tubing can be either above ground or buried 2 inches below ground. Water travels through the tube and slowly leaks out into the surrounding soil, which has the benefit of feeding the roots of your greenery directly.

According to the AWWA, drip irrigation systems use just 16% more water than standard households versus 35% for normal sprinkler systems — so they’re also more water efficient. Part of the reason is that sprinklers broadcast water over a large area, which means some of that moisture is lost to evaporation; drip systems avoid this problem. That being said, drip systems are really best for watering specific areas of your yard, such as flower beds, rather than an entire lawn, which can be better served by the greater range of a sprinkler system.

According to Lawn Love, you can expect to pay an average of $223 to $2,000 (CAD 306 to CAD 2,745) per watering zone for a drip irrigation system with the tubing above ground, and about $815 to $4,335 (CAD 1,118 to CAD 5,950) per acre for a system with buried tubes, which is helpful if you’ll be mowing the area where it’s installed.

…Or Are You More of a Sprinkle?

The second major type of home sprinkler system is one that uses a series of sprinkler heads sunk in the ground and spaced apart to provide broad irrigation coverage. These systems consist of a main water line and a series of branch lines that travel to the individual sprinkler heads.

The ultimate cost of a sprinkler system is determined by a number of factors, including how easy it is to dig the trenches in your yard, how many zones and heads you’ll need, whether you’ll do the job yourself, and whether local building codes require you to hire a plumber to connect the system to your home’s water supply.

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DIY or Pro

According to data from Lawn Love, a professionally installed sprinkler system for an average yard measuring 1,000 to 3,000 square meters will run between $500 and $1,500 (CAD 700 and CAD 2,100). Doing the job yourself, however, would save significant cash, ringing up at around $130 to $260 (CAD 180 to CAD 360). If your landscape watering needs are relatively simple, or you only need to sprinkle a portion of your yard, you may very well wish to go it alone.

One important consideration to take into account before you begin is to measure your home’s water pressure, which you can do by attaching a pressure gauge to your hose bib. Most sprinkler systems best operate around 30 psi (pounds per square inch of pressure) or more, so if your pressure is lower than that, you’ll need a system designed for a more minimal flow.

Keep in mind that a pro may be able to bring benefits to the job that you might not otherwise be able to take advantage of. Pros know their way around local permitting laws, will work with a plumber if needed to get your system installed legally, and will be aware of which parts of your yard to avoid due to water lines or other utilities. A good irrigation system installer will also help you plan the number of sprinkler heads and zones you’ll need for your particular area of the country and the types of plants you have. If you’re still in the planning stages of your landscaping project, pros can also provide input in terms of what to plant where to minimize water usage.

Smart Vs. Not

Beyond choosing either a drip or sprinkler system, and choosing the right sprinkler heads for your needs (which are inexpensive at around $45 (CAD 60) for a pack of four), you’ll also want to decide what kind of control system you’d like your system to run off of. Thumbtack says this can be as simple as a heavy-duty sprinkler timer that clicks your system on and off at the same time each day — which could cost as little as $50 (CAD 70) for a six-zone controller — to a modern “smart” system that connects to the internet and special in-ground sensors to adjust your watering schedule based on weather forecasts and soil saturation. A smart sprinkler controller should run in the range of $60 to $300 (CAD 80 to CAD 415), depending on the features you need.

The number of zones you set up will also factor into the final cost for your project. According to HomeGuide, every additional zone you add to a system will run about $300 to $700 (CAD 415 to CAD 960) in extra expense.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

How to Maintain Your Central Air Conditioner: 3 Top Tasks

How to Maintain Your Central Air Conditioner: 3 Top Tasks

You don’t have to be an experienced homeowner to know that having a fully functional central AC system is incredibly important. Not only does it keep you and your family cool and comfortable during the sweltering summer months, but it also can help keep the air in your home clean and lower your family’s exposure to indoor allergens like pollen, mold and dust mites.

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Yet, like any other major home appliance, air conditioners require routine maintenance to maximize their benefits. Taking the time to clean your central air conditioning unit regularly will keep it running smoothly and efficiently for as long as possible. Heck — It can even keep your energy bills lower in the process.

Fortunately, regular AC maintenance is pretty simple. In other words, you won’t need to hire anyone for the job; you can do it yourself.

Looking to keep your central AC system in good shape? Here are a few important, routine maintenance tasks that’ll help keep things “chill.”

Replace or Clean Your Air Filters

Perhaps the most essential — and easiest — AC maintenance task is to regularly replace or clean your air filters. Dirty, clogged filters severely limit your AC’s efficiency by decreasing your system’s airflow. Additionally, when a filter is clogged, air can bypass the filter, allowing unfiltered air to flow throughout your HVAC system, potentially damaging the evaporator coil in the process.

Air filters on central air conditioning units are usually found along the length of the return duct, typically in the wall or ceiling or sometimes, in the air conditioner itself. Depending on the type of filters you have, you’ll either need to replace or clean them. If you don’t know what type of filter you have, you can easily determine it by examining the filter itself.

If the filter is made of a nylon weave or plastic mesh material, it’s more than likely a washable filter. If so, simply rinse the filter with warm water and replace it once it dries.

As for replaceable filters, make sure you purchase ones with high MERV ratings to maximize indoor air quality. Regardless of the scenario, plan on replacing or cleaning your air filters at least once every three months. You should replace the filter more often if you find that it gets dirty very quickly, or if you have air pollutants in your home like pet fur or cigarette smoke.

Clean Your AC Coils

Another important maintenance task that will ensure your HVAC system is in good condition is to clean your AC evaporator and condenser coils at least once a year. Luckily, it’s also a fairly simple job.

Keeping your air filters clean will, in turn, keep your evaporator coil cleaner for a longer period of time. However, the coil will still collect dirt eventually. Over time, dirt and debris will insulate the coil, impacting the way it absorbs heat. You can find evaporator coils indoors, inside the air handler in your basement, closet, garage or attic. Look for a removable access panel on the air handler to find the evaporator coil. Use a nylon brush to clean the dust and debris off the coils, then rinse them with water in a spray bottle. When you’re finished rinsing, reassemble the access panel.

In addition to the evaporator coils, you should clean the condenser coils regularly, as well. When these get dirty and clogged, the condenser fan and compressors have to work harder to maintain the output of cool air in the home.

To clean them, remove the outer case and caging from the outdoor condenser unit. You’ll be removing the lid to the condenser and working inside the unit, so make sure that you shut off your AC prior to the task. From there, use a garden hose with a spray nozzle to clear away any dirt and debris in the fins. Finally, dry the coils with a cloth and then reassemble the condenser unit.

Try to keep the area around the condenser unit clear. Clear away and remove any tall grass, vines or tree limbs that might interrupt airflow.

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Check the Condensate Drain Line

Condensate drain lines remove excess moisture buildup in central air conditioning systems. Typically, a condensate line runs through an AC unit, exiting outside. When it’s functioning properly, water drips out as the system runs. If a condensation line were to become clogged, moisture would eventually accumulate inside the home AC system, leading to mold and mildew growth that could potentially damage ductwork or insulation. That’s why cleaning your drain line regularly is a crucial bit of AC maintenance. While relatively easy, cleaning your drain line is a bit more time-consuming than other AC maintenance tasks.

To clean your AC drain line, first, find the air conditioning system’s drip pan. You can locate the drip pan underneath the air handler. Start by removing any water left in the pan, then clean it with warm water and soap. Once it’s clean, replace the drip pan back under the air handler.

When the drip pan is clean, find the exit point of your drain line. Generally, these are located on the outside of your AC unit. Open the PVC cap and, using a small brush, clean out any debris and backed-up debris left in the line. When you’re done, be sure to leave the cap off the exit point until you’ve flushed the drain line.

Finally, you’ll want to find and clean the access point of your condensation drain line. Usually, these are located inside your home, near the air handler. Like the exit point, the access point also has a PVC cap. Pour a mixture of hot water and vinegar into the access point to flush the drain line. When you’ve flushed the drain line, replace the caps on both the access point and the exit point.

Keeping Things Running Smoothly

Performing regular maintenance on your AC is the best way to ensure that you’re getting the most benefits from your system all season long. In addition to completing these maintenance tasks, consider having your system inspected by an AC technician once a year as well. While it might be an added yearly expense, doing so will keep your system in peak condition. And when it comes to those dog days of summer, you don’t want to take any chances.

Why Does My Shower Turn Hot When I Flush the Toilet?

Why Does My Shower Turn Hot When I Flush the Toilet?

Nothing disrupts a nice warm shower like an unexpected temperature shift when someone flushes the toilet. If your shower gets hot after a toilet is flushed, it can be more than annoying; it may actually hurt you if the temperature fluctuation results in scalding hot water coming out of your showerhead. And it’s not just hot water you could get hit with in the shower. Cold water can sometimes surprise you, too, when a toilet flushes or if certain appliances are running.

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But how does flushing the toilet affect the shower? If this issue is occurring in your home, it probably involves your water pressure and the configuration of your pipes. Luckily, this annoyance is something that can be remedied without spending too much time or money.

Someone Flushed the Toilet — Why Does the Shower Get Hot?

So, why does flushing the toilet affect the shower? Without getting super technical, most homes use a plumbing system with pipes arranged in what’s called a trunk and branch system, which is just like it sounds: Bigger, main pipes are the “trunk” that then send water out to the smaller branches. The branches are what connect to the sinks, toilets, showers, dishwashers and other fixtures in your home. Temperature fluctuations like hot water in the shower when the toilet flushes occur when the water pressure is unstable and pulls water from one branch or appliance that’s being used to another.

While there are bigger plumbing projects you can tackle to address this issue, like widening the trunk or installing a more complex, well-balanced system, there are simpler ways to fix the problem. If you’re in the market for an easy and affordable fix, you can either install a thermostatic mixing valve to your shower or adjust the supply valve on your toilet.

A thermostatic mixing valve will keep a check on the water pressure of both the hot and cold water supply lines entering the shower before the cold water mixes with the hot. If the pressure of one drops, it will adjust the other accordingly to help keep the shower temperature consistent, in spite of any toilet flushing action occurring elsewhere in the house.

Another way to tackle this issue is to limit the water flow to your toilets. You can do this by closing the toilet supply valve a bit. Doing so will cause your toilet to fill more slowly, but it will help minimize the temperature fluctuations in other plumbing branches, like your shower.

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Why Might the Shower Get Cold When Someone Flushes the Toilet?

A blast of hot water is not the only sudden temperature shift you may experience in the shower. Flushing the toilet can make the shower cold too. This can also happen when you start running another tap or appliance, like a washing machine or dishwasher, that requires water and thus disrupts the water distribution and pressure of your shower. Luckily, you can deal with the issue in the same way that you’d address the hot water problem, so that your water temperature woes can be solved in one fell swoop.

Flush Freely

Water in the shower is meant to stay at a comfortable temperature of your choosing. Sure, cold showers are trending, but any cold or hot blasts to shock the system should be up to you, and not an unfortunate side effect of your home’s imbalanced plumbing. If you feel like updating your plumbing to a more sophisticated system that solves the problem, by all means, do so. But you can also try fixing the issue with much simpler, more affordable strategies that will help keep your water pressure balanced. By installing a thermostatic mixing valve to your shower and/or adjusting your toilet supply valve, you can easily take control of your shower temperature and steer clear of both hot and cold surprises while you bathe.

Installing a Water Softener Isn’t So Hard: Your 7-Step Installation Guide

Installing a Water Softener Isn’t So Hard: Your 7-Step Installation Guide

Hard water is water that’s high in dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium. It can cause a wide range of problems in your home, like affecting the taste of drinking and cooking water, staining toilet bowls and sinks and damaging appliances like washing machines and hot water tanks.

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If your home has excessively hard water, the best solution is to install a whole-home water softener. The most common type of residential water softener is an ion-exchange system, which uses negatively charged resin beads to attract the positively charged minerals before exchanging them with “softer,” positively charged sodium or potassium chloride. Then, the softer water is dispensed into your home’s water supply.

Installing a water softener requires considerable comfort with DIY projects and some plumbing knowledge that goes beyond the basics, so it’s not a suitable project for every homeowner. That said, installing a water softener yourself can lead to substantial savings over having it professionally installed.

If you feel up to the task, follow this basic installation guide.

Before You Begin

Before you commit to installing a water softener, verify that your water actually needs to be softened. While hard water has many deleterious consequences, soft water can prematurely corrode pipes and elevate the sodium levels of your home’s drinking water. Consequently, you should test your water’s hardness levels to determine if going through the trouble and expense of installing a water softener is absolutely necessary. You can contact your local water company to see if they have your water supply’s hardness level on file, or you can purchase an at-home hard water test kit. In either case, softening your water should only be necessary if your water hardness exceeds 7 grams per gallon.

Once you’ve determined that you actually need a water softener, figure out where you’re going to install the unit. It should be installed as close to where the main water supply enters your home as possible, which is often in a garage or basement. Additionally, it should be installed before the water line reaches your home’s hot water heater so that the tank and hot water lines don’t become contaminated with hard water.

Next, ensure that the area you’ll be installing the unit is large enough to accommodate both of the softener’s tanks. Most water softeners have a “mineral tank” that houses the resin beads and a “brine tank” that contains the salt or potassium chloride. These tanks need to be installed side-by-side. The installation location also needs to be near an electrical outlet to provide power to the unit and within reach of a drain such as a utility sink or floor drain.

Finally, if anyone in your household is on a low-sodium diet, use potassium chloride salt in the brine tank instead of sodium chloride, which is common table salt.

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How to Install a Water Softener

What You’ll Need

  • Screwdriver
  • Tape measure
  • Flexible water supply line
  • Adapter for flexible supply line
  • Copper pipe and fittings
  • PVC pipe and fittings
  • Hacksaw, copper pipe cutter, or PVC cutter)
  • Solder flux and blow torch

Step 1: Install a Bypass Valve

Most water softeners come with a bypass valve that lets you shut off the water supply to the unit when it needs to be serviced while still allowing water into your home. It consists of two valves: one where the main water supply line enters the unit, and the other where the softened water exits to be transported into your home. Press the valve into the corresponding port on the back of the control module (the box that houses the LCD display screen) and secure it in place with the provided clamps.

Step 2: Shut off the Water

Locate and close the shut-off valve to your home’s main water supply. Drain the water out of your home’s water lines by opening a sink faucet until water stops flowing.

Step 3: Tie Into the Water Supply Line

The two most common ways to connect a water softener to your home’s main water supply are by hard-piping it with rigid copper or PVC pipe, or by using flexible supply lines similar to those used on washing machines and hot water heaters. The type you use may depend on your local building codes, the type of pipe your home’s main water line uses or personal preference.

Sections of copper plumbing pipe and fittings can either be soldered together with solder flux and a blow torch, or connected with push-fit fittings like SharkBite connectors. When soldering copper, you should cut and preassemble the pipes and fittings before installing them onto the water softener, because the heat from the blow torch can damage the softener’s plastic components. Flexible supply lines are often the easiest to use since they don’t require any cutting or pre-assembly, but you may need to use a special adapter to connect the flexible line to your water supply line and/or the water softener’s bypass valve.

Use a copper pipe cutter (for copper pipe), PVC cutter (for PVC pipe) or hacksaw (for either) to make two cuts into the main water supply line. One cut should be to one side of the softener where the water line first enters your home, and the other cut should be to the other side of the softener where the line continues into your home.

Install the water softener’s water supply lines onto both sides of your home’s main water supply line using the appropriate fittings and adapter. The type of fittings and adapters you’ll need will depend on the type of pipe used for the main water and water softener lines. The pipe connected to the main water supply where it first enters your home should be installed on the inlet side of the water softener’s bypass valve. The pipe connected to where the main line continues into your home should be installed onto the outlet side of the softener.

Step 4: Fill and Connect the Tanks

Connect the mineral tank to the brine tank with the provided tubing and clamps. Fill the brine tank with the amount of water and sodium or potassium chloride salt that’s recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 5: Connect Drain Tubes

Most water softeners require a drain hose that transports the discharge water from the mineral tank during its backwash cycle, and an overflow drain connected to the brine tank to prevent the tank from overflowing onto the floor. Both drain tubes can go to the same drain, but they can’t be connected together. Connect the drain tubes to each tank and run them to the closest drain.

Step 6: Turn the Water and Start the Unit

Partially open the main water supply valve to your home until it’s in the 1/4 position, and allow trapped air in the line to escape. Once you can hear a steady stream of water running into the tank — without any hissing sounds that indicate air is still escaping — you can fully open the main water valve to begin filling the mineral tank.

Plug the unit into the nearest electrical outlet and turn on the control module. Follow the startup procedure on the screen, which will often involve setting the time and desired water hardness level.

Step 7: Run the Backwash Cycle

Run a backwash cycle to purge the remaining air from the system and loosen the resin beads in the mineral tank. While the backwash cycle is running, inspect all the plumbing lines and connections for leaks. Once the cycle is complete, check the brine tank and adjust the brine solution as necessary.