Nothing ruins a nice, hot shower like the smell of sewage emanating from your shower drain. Sewer smells or other foul odors coming from your shower, while not always a cause for alarm, are anything but pleasant.

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If your shower smells like sewage and you’re not sure why, you’ll want to get to the bottom of things, stat. Read on for a list of some of the most common culprits of shower drain smells along with how to fix them.

Why Does My Shower Smell Like Sewage?

1. P-Trap Problems

If you notice your shower drain smells like sewage, the P-Trap is on of the first places you’ll want to check, since dirty or dry P-traps are often to blame for stinky shower drains. Despite its name, a P-trap is actually a U-shaped piece of pipe that lies beneath the rest of the drain’s pipeline and holds water to stop sewer gases from traveling up through the drain and into your bathroom. But a dirty P-trap that’s blocked by buildup like hair and soap scum can’t do its job properly. Another P-trap-related issue that can make your drain smell like sewage is a dry P-trap, usually caused by a clogged ventilation line or other problem with your plumbing vent.

If you suspect a dirty P-trap is sending sewer gases into your shower, first try cleaning the P-trap with a simple baking soda and vinegar combo, very hot (but not boiling) water or, if you must, a chemical drain cleaner. Be sure to run water down the drain for a bit to thoroughly rinse afterward. However, if a dry P-trap is the issue, you’ll need to call in a professional plumber to take a look at the plumbing’s vent line.

2. Drain Clogs

A drain clog is another common culprit when it comes to a stinky shower. Drain clogs occur when shower debris — like hair, soap scum, mineral deposits and oils (the same particles that can cause problems in your P-trap) — build up and slow the flow of the drain, causing more debris to accumulate that begins to smell over time. One thing to note with drain clogs is that they can produce a variety of odors but, oftentimes, as this build up breaks down, it releases hydrogen sulfide, causing a sulfuric, eggy smell that is unpleasant to say the least.

If you suspect a drain clog, try using a drain snake to remove the debris buildup. If shower drain clogs are a consistent issue in your shower, consider purchasing a drain strainer to help prevent future clogs. You can also, again, try pouring very hot water down the shower drain to help rid it of any residual soap and oil buildup that the drain snake may have missed.

3. Bacterial Buildup

If your shower tile or drain has a film of bacterial buildup that has collected over time, it could potentially cause a musty or unpleasant, sewer-like smell. Biofilm is a bacteria that can attach to shower tiles or stalls, and in and around your shower drain, accumulating over time.

If there’s an odor in your shower and you aren’t sure it’s a sewer smell, you might try cleaning your shower tiles and your drain to see if eliminating bacteria buildup helps kill the stench. Try scrubbing your shower and drain cover with an antimicrobial disinfectant cleaner. If you want to take this a step further, you can detach your drain cover and use a paint roller cover to vertically clean the sides of your drain pipe with that same disinfectant to help wash away any biofilm buildup. A steam cleaner, which can usually be rented from your local home improvement store, is another option.

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Can I Fix It Myself (and, If So, How?) or Do I Need a Plumber?

Whether you can tackle your shower’s sewer smell on your own will depend on the scope and specifics of your particular issue, but for many of these problems you can try addressing them inexpensively and independently first, either with a drain snake, a baking soda/vinegar wash, or a deep clean. None of these is likely to cause any harm, even if they don’t solve the sewer smell in your bathroom. If the problem persists after you try your at-home remedies, it’s time to call a plumber to investigate the issue further.

So Long, Sewer Smell!

Sewer smells in your shower are an unpleasant business. But the good news is that, in many instances, they can be dealt with fairly easily and affordably, without having to call in the pros. If your home remedy doesn’t help or you have recurring issues with shower drain smells in your bathroom, you’ll obviously want a plumber to take a closer look. Either way, once you’ve addressed the issue and sent that shower drain smell back from whence it came, then congratulations! Reward yourself by taking a lovely, long shower that no longer offends your olfactory system. Ahhh, it smells like … victory.

Despite sounding counterintuitive, an air conditioner that freezes despite the scorching summer heat is a surprisingly common occurrence. Along with visible ice on the outside of the AC, frozen refrigerant or evaporator coils on the inside of the unit can cause your air conditioner to blow warm, instead of cold, air into your home. It can even result in expensive damage to the compressor if you continue to run the air conditioner while it’s frozen.

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Read on to learn what causes an air conditioner to freeze, how to fix it, and how to prevent your AC from freezing in the future.

What Causes an AC Unit to Freeze?

Frozen air conditioners are usually caused by:

Poor Airflow

The most common reason for an AC unit freezing is inadequate airflow. Without warm air moving across the evaporator coils, the coil’s temperature will drop and cause them to freeze. Poor airflow also allows the humidity in the air to collect on the coils, which increases their likelihood of freezing. Airflow issues can be caused by a dirty air filter, dirty evaporator coils, a weak or malfunctioning blower, closed or obstructed vents or ductwork that’s clogged, collapsed, leaking or undersized.

Low Refrigerant Levels

Low refrigerant levels from a leak in the system will lower the temperature in the refrigerant lines and cause them to freeze over. If you see bubbles on your refrigerant lines or hear a hissing noise coming from them, you likely have a refrigerant leak. Unfortunately, fixing a refrigerant leak requires special tools and expert know-how, so it needs to be addressed by a professional HVAC technician.

Blocked Condensate Line

Air conditioners extract water vapor from the air in the process of removing heat, and the water that accumulates inside the unit is drained outside through a condensate line. If the condensate line becomes clogged, however, water will accumulate inside the unit and freeze. In addition to the AC being frozen, signs of a clogged condensate line include standing water or water damage around the indoor unit.

Cool Summer Nights

Operating your air conditioner when outside temperatures are below 60 degrees will drop the pressure in the refrigerant lines and cause them to freeze. This typically happens during cool summer nights when the air conditioner’s thermostat is set too low.

How to Fix a Frozen Air Conditioner

Step 1: Melt the Ice

Continuing to run your AC while it’s frozen can place a heavy demand on the unit’s compressor, possibly resulting in expensive damage or a reduced lifespan. Melt the ice by either turning the AC completely off, or by turning on the fan-only function if your unit has one. Using the fan will accelerate the thawing process by blowing warm air over all the unit’s internal components. In either case, it can take anywhere from a few hours to a couple of days for the ice to completely melt based on the extent of freezing, the size of your air conditioner and the surrounding air temperature.

Step 2: Check the Air Filter

Check the air filter to see if it’s clogged by holding it up to a source of light. If light doesn’t pass through it, it’s clogged and needs to be replaced. In addition to preventing your air conditioner from freezing, replacing the air filter can reduce the unit’s energy consumption by 5% to 15%.

Step 3: Clean the Coils

The AC filter is responsible for filtering out the dirt, dust, pet hair and other airborne particles from your home before it reaches the evaporator coil. However, some of it will inevitably slip through, especially if the filter is dirty. When that happens, these particles will accumulate on the coils and result in freezing from inhibited airflow.

If there’s a lot of visible grit and grime on your condenser coil, you can clean it off by spraying an evaporator coil cleaner. While some formulas don’t need to be rinsed off after applying, others need to be flushed with water from a spray bottle. Check the manufacturer’s instructions before use.

Step 4: Check the Vents

Look around your home for supply and return vents that are closed or obstructed. Any vents that are closed — even in unused rooms— should be opened. Check underneath rugs, behind furniture and under heavy drapes for vents that may be blocked.

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Step 5: Clear the Drain

While unclogging a condensate line may require professional assistance, you can attempt to clear the clog yourself with a wet-dry vacuum equipped with a special attachment.

Start by locating the open end of the condensate line, which is usually a 3/4-inch PVC pipe found near the outdoor compressor unit. If you have a wet-dry vac with a standard 2.5-inch hose, you can install an AC condensate line attachment onto it to suck the clog out of the line. Simply connect the 2.5-inch side of the attachment to the vacuum hose and the 3/4-inch side to the condensate line, then run the shop vac for three minutes to clear the clog.

Step 6: Set the Thermostat

Set the temperature on your thermostat to no lower than 65 degrees so the unit will shut off before outdoor temperatures dip below 60. Instead of using your AC during cool summer nights, consider opening up some windows instead.

Step 7: Turn on the AC and Test

After you’ve performed all of the above steps, turn the air conditioner back on and monitor it for evidence of freezing in the coming days or weeks. If it freezes up again, you may need to have the underlying issue addressed by a professional HVAC technician.

If All Else Fails: Call an HVAC technician

While you can tackle many causes of a frozen air conditioner yourself, some need to be handled by a professional technician. If your AC continues to freeze over after completing the above steps, you will need to have it inspected by a professional to identify and fix the underlying cause. An HVAC technician will be able to:

• Repair leaking or damaged refrigerant lines
• Inspect, clean, repair or replace ductwork
• Inspect, repair or replace a weak or malfunctioning blower
• Thoroughly clean the evaporator coils
• Clear a heavily obstructed condensate line

How Do I Keep My Air Conditioner From Freezing Up?

The best way to keep your air conditioner from freezing up is to replace the air filter every 30 to 90 days, depending on the quality of the filter, the size of your home, the number of people living in the house and whether you have pets. Check your filter every month and replace it whenever it’s clogged.

Set the temperature on your thermostat so that it shuts off before outdoor temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Have your HVAC unit inspected by a qualified HVAC technician every spring. They will be able to clean your evaporator coils and check the condition of your ducts, blower motor and refrigerant lines. Not only will this prevent your air conditioner from freezing, but it will also maximize the lifespan of your unit as well.

When winter rolls around, there’s no shortage of tasks for homeowners to check off their to-do lists to prep their houses for the coming cold. The amount of winterizing that’s necessary will depend on the climate you live in, along with the specifics of your home.

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One long-standing debate is whether or not you should cover your HVAC unit in the winter. We’re going to settle it, once and for all.

Do You Need to Cover Your Central AC Unit in the Winter?

It makes sense, in theory, to cover your AC unit to protect it from the elements in winter, particularly if you live in an area that sees a lot of snow and ice. But the truth is that modern HVAC units were built and tested to withstand extreme temperatures and precipitation. They are made with materials capable of handling winter weather and have built-in drainage to get rid of winter precipitation and snow melt, so contrary to what you may think, most outdoor AC units don’t actually need the protection of a cover during winter months.

In fact, covering your air conditioning unit during winter can do more harm than good, because it may trap moisture and condensation in the unit, which can lead to mold and rust. This is especially true for plastic covers, like a tarp, or covers made of other non-breathable materials that can similarly foster mold growth and corrosion. What’s more, snug, air-tight covers can be very appealing to critters looking for a spot to cozy up during cold winter months, and the last thing you want is mice or other rodents making a nest in your AC unit — and they can fit into smaller spaces than you might think!

When Should You Cover Your Air Conditioner?

Although an air conditioner cover isn’t necessary for winter months, it can be helpful to have some protection for your unit in the fall. Covering just the top portion of your unit with an outdoor AC cover in the fall can help keep leaves, twigs, nuts and other falling debris from getting lodged in your unit, which can cause problems down the line.

The key to covering your AC unit in the fall is to make sure the cover is breathable and only extends about six or so inches down the sides of the unit. You do not need a full unit cover to protect your AC unit from debris. This will ensure that although the top of your unit is protected, the unit still has plenty of room to breathe, preventing the trapped condensation buildup that can cause issues with rust or mold. You can also check with your HVAC manufacturer to see if there’s a specific weather shield top cover option that’s meant for your unit.

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Outdoor AC Cover Minimalism

Like most home maintenance, when it comes to winterizing, you want to keep your home protected without doing (or spending) more than necessary. And you certainly want to avoid doing something that may be harmful rather than helpful, which may be the case if you fully cover your HVAC unit in the winter with dense, non-porous cover.

Air conditioning covers for winter may seem like a good idea, but they simply aren’t necessary for most modern units, especially since many covers out there can trap moisture and cause long-term damage to your unit. Plus, a full, cozy unit cover may appeal to mice and other critters as a place to get away from the cold.

That said, covering the top of your unit in the fall to protect it from falling debris is not a bad idea, especially if your unit is in an area that receives a lot of tree detritus during the autumn months. If you do opt to cover your unit in the fall, just make sure to use a breathable top cover and remember to remove it before the first freeze of the season. Because when it comes to winterizing your HVAC unit, less really is more.

If you’re new to homeownership, you may not have given much thought to your gutters. Nevertheless, rain gutters play an essential role in keeping your home protected and free from water damage.

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Keeping your gutters cleaned and well-maintained will prevent clogs and ensure your gutters are doing their job properly. If you’re new to the gutter game, read this rundown on what they’re all about.

What Exactly Are Gutters For?

Gutters help protect your home by diverting rain, working to shield it from water damage. Gutters use a system of channels just below your roofline to send rain and other precipitation away from your home via downspouts. This helps keep water from collecting around your foundation or causing mold and mildew damage to your home’s siding.

What Are Gutters Made Of?

Most roof gutters are made of aluminum, vinyl or galvanized steel and tend to be installed toward the end of the home-building process. Gutters are pretty long-lasting, with a typical lifespan of 20 years or more, depending on the material and how well they’re maintained.

Although the cost varies quite a bit depending on your home’s specifics and the type of gutter system you choose, the average cost of a gutter replacement is around $1,500 (CAD 2,000) for both materials and installation, give or take a bit, depending on square footage. That said, if your house has a complicated roofline that requires a very sophisticated system, or if you want to upgrade to a higher-end, longer-lasting material for your gutters, you should expect to pay significantly more.

What About Gutter Guards?

You can also purchase gutter guards to go on top of your gutters to help protect them from excess leaf and debris buildup and to keep your rainwater flowing as it should. Gutter guards won’t remove the need for cleaning entirely, but you certainly won’t have to clean your gutters as often. While gutter guards will make maintaining your gutters easier, know that they can come with a pretty hefty price tag — around $15 (CAD 20) per square foot, or about $1,500 (CAD 2,000) more than gutters alone. That said, for a lot of folks, they are more than worth it for the time and effort they save on maintenance, especially for homes positioned under a lot of foliage.

Do You Need to Have Gutters?

In short, probably so. The overwhelming majority of homes need roof gutters to help protect the integrity of the home, but there are a few exceptions. Concrete houses, for example, may not need gutters, and homes with downward-sloping properties and extra-long roof overhangs (think 6 to 10 inches) may also be able to go gutter-free. Also, homes in extremely dry climates may not need the protection of gutters like most homes do, since they receive such little rain.

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What Are the Hazards of Clogged Gutters?

Keeping your gutters clean is important for several reasons. In addition to ensuring the gutters are flowing as they should, seasonal cleaning will also help keep your gutters from getting clogged. Clogged gutters can lead to mold and mildew buildup, ice dams in winter and pest issues, all of which can cause long-term damage to your gutters.

Basic Gutter Maintenance Tips

Regardless of how sophisticated or high-quality your gutter system might be, clean gutters are key to making sure they are functioning their best. In general, you should plan to clean your gutters at least twice a year, ideally during fall and spring. Cleaning out your rain gutters toward the end of fall helps prevent clogs and gives you the chance to remove leaves, pinecones, branches and other debris that have accumulated and ensure the gutters are ready for the coming winter.

Fall is also a good time to check that your gutters are free of holes or other damage and still solidly attached to your home. When winter hits, you want your gutters in good shape, so that they can handle whatever snow and ice the cold weather brings. Early spring is also a good opportunity to check in on your gutters to make sure they didn’t suffer any damage from the weight of winter precipitation. Check for rust, dents, sagging or loose pieces while your gutters are empty. Spring tends to bring rain, so you’ll want your gutters clean and well-functioning so that they can do the work of diverting all that rainfall away from your home to protect your siding and foundation.

Maintenance Matters Most

Whether you have top-of-the-line gutters that were installed in recent years or a basic gutter system from decades ago, creating a regular cleaning and inspection schedule will help keep your gutters performing as they should. As with other aspects of homeownership, preventive maintenance is key to gutter longevity and avoiding spending extra money on repairs down the line.

There’s nothing quite like a healthy lawn. When it’s warm out, it’s the place to be — perfect for games of catch, family picnics and other recreation. And even as it gets colder, a robust lawn can assist in protecting the ground and preventing erosion, as the grass roots help water to safely enter the soil. In addition, a well-maintained lawn looks good, improves curb appeal and even increases the value of your home. Put simply: Investing in your lawn is a fertile pursuit.

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Whether you’re starting from scratch, or repairing an old, patchy greenspace on your property, one of the best ways to get a great-looking lawn quickly is to install sod. Read on to learn about what sod is, the different types and the associated costs.

Is Sod Real Grass?

In essence, sod is farm-grown grass that’s been carefully cultivated and then removed with a thin layer of soil and roots that hold it together. It’s cut into even sections, and then rolled so that the sod is ready to be shipped to its destination. The sod is then unfurled on top of soil, where it takes root.

For lawn-ready homeowners looking to maximize their time and energy, sod is certainly a desirable option. Laying sod is instantly gratifying. While it may not yet be ready for heavy use, quality sod looks impressive right after unrolling it and placing it in the yard. Already healthy and weed-free, with regular watering, sod can be ready for full use in about two weeks.

Despite the near-instant gratification it provides, like all home landscaping projects, laying sod can feel like a daunting process. And, if you haven’t planned accordingly, a sod installation project can quickly get expensive. It pays to have a little knowledge about sod installation as you begin your project to help prevent overspending and other surprises along the way.

How Much Does Sod Cost to Install?

Because sod grass is carefully cultivated on specialized farms, it’s almost always more expensive than seeding a lawn. Of course, that makes sense since you’re paying a farm to grow the grass for you. According to Lawn Love, sod costs around 35 cents to 80 cents (CAD 0.48 to CAD 1.10) per square foot.

Estimate roughly $100 to $500 (CAD 140 to CAD 700) per sod pallet, according to Thumbtack. A sod pallet covers around 450 square feet. That translates to roughly $3,000 to $7,000 (CAD 4,200 to CAD 9,600) for a one-fifth-acre lawn for the sod itself. Add in professional installation, and you’re looking at $8,000 to $16,000 (CAD 11,000 and CAD 22,000) for the same size lawn.

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Types of Sod

One of the biggest cost drivers per square foot of sod is the type of grass you install. And while this decision can depend in part on personal preference, it’s more often subject to your zip code as well as the amount of available sun and shade your area receives. Other factors impacting sod choice include climate and the average amount of precipitation in the area.

For example, fescue and Bahia grass are two of the more popular types of grass in the Southeastern United States due to their low price point and resilience amid heat and humidity. Zoysia and palmetto grass, on the other hand, are softer, more delicate grasses that thrive in shaded, cooler areas. Bermuda grass, another common choice throughout the U.S., is a great sod grass for hot, dry desert climates due to its natural resistance to drought. Chances are, wherever you live, there’s a sod farm relatively close by that grows the best types of sod for your climate.

How Much Sod Do You Need?

The size of your sod installation project is perhaps the most significant factor in determining how much it will cost. Obviously, the larger the square footage of the project, the more it will cost. Because of this, you’ll want to be extra careful not to buy more sod than you’ll need. Unfortunately, that’s not always as easy as it sounds.

Much like laying tile or hanging wallpaper, sod rolls must be cut to fit certain areas of your lawn, so you may end up needing more rolls than you think. Because of this, professional sod installation services recommend that you purchase 5% more sod than you anticipate needing for the project. Fortunately, there are several online sod calculator apps that can help you determine how much sod you’ll need to purchase.

Should You Hire a Professional?

Another factor that affects the cost of your sod project is whether you choose to install it yourself. As you can imagine, hiring a pro for your sod installation comes with its own set of perks. Contracting out the job allows you to sit back and relax, trusting that the job will be done correctly. A professional will typically remove your old grass, prepare and fertilize your soil and, finally, lay the new sod. It goes without saying that this service comes at a price: On average, homeowners can expect to pay 55 cents to $1 (CAD  0.75 to CAD 1.38) per square foot for professional sod installation, not including the cost of the sod itself.

That said, laying sod is a doable project for those who are up to the task. It’s a bit of a workout, and it will likely take you longer to tackle than it would a professional. However, you’ll save a lot of money, and when you’re finished, you can bask in the self-satisfaction of having completed the project yourself.

Still, you’ll need to keep in mind that there are other costs associated with a do-it-yourself sod installation besides purchasing the sod itself. For example, once you remove the old grass and weeds from the project area, you’ll need to loosen the dirt significantly. While you can use a shovel or a mattock to do this, it’s much quicker and easier if you use a rototiller. If you don’t have access to a rototiller, you can rent one from your local equipment rental store for roughly $63 (CAD 87) a day.

While the lawn is bare and the soil loose, it might be a good idea, here, to test your soil to figure out what kind of fertilizer you’ll need to use after you lay the sod. You’ll also want to purchase a sod knife for the job, which typically costs around $18 (CAD 25).

Plan Ahead, Follow Through

In essence, sod installation is as simple as it sounds: You lay the sod down and let it take root. But, like any project, it can sometimes be worth it to hire a pro. If you have an especially large lawn, if your lawn is in an odd shape, or if you aren’t up to the physical demands, calling a professional might be the best decision. Whatever route you choose, make sure to care for your new sod with proper watering and by avoiding heavy traffic in those first few weeks. It’s a massive bummer to invest time and money in a project only to have to turn around and redo large portions of it.

By planning accordingly, a sod installation project doesn’t have to be prohibitively expensive. In fact, with a little knowledge and planning, you can be on your way to enjoying the myriad benefits of a healthy lawn.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

If you work hard on your home’s landscaping, installing some kind of home irrigation system might be the best way to ensure your toils don’t go to waste. An irrigation system can keep your lawn green, your flowers and shrubbery thriving, and can even increase the value of your home. What’s more, new smart irrigation systems can connect with weather forecasts and use sensing technology to keep water usage to a minimum. Still, these systems can cost as much as $7,000 for professional installation, so deciding to put one in should be carefully mulled over.

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Here are some things to consider as you’re thinkin’ ’bout sprinklin’:

Do You Need a Sprinkler System?

It might seem like an obvious answer, but understanding your need for a sprinkler system is an important part of this process. You’ll want to take into consideration what your actual watering needs are. Do you live in a place that gets plenty of rain? Do you have a large lawn that needs coverage, or are there only a few areas that need consistent moisture? Is your yard planted with local vegetation that can withstand the weather fluctuations in your area, or do you have specialized plantings that need extra attention?

A good way to determine how often your grass needs water is simply to step on it: If it springs back, then it’s fine but if not, it needs to be watered. By conducting this simple test over a few weeks, you’ll get a sense of just how much of a water deficit there may be in your yard.

While installing a sprinkler system might seem like an efficient way to keep your plantings and grass healthy, according to a study by the American Water Works Association (as reported by the EPA), the most water-efficient way to keep your yard at the proper moisture level is to use a hose. The group says that manually watering with a hose will use 33% less water outdoors than average household usage, while in-ground sprinklers cause 35% more usage. Even more surprising is that sprinkler systems on timers actually use 47% more water than normal.

That being said, if you set up and use your sprinkler system with water usage in mind, you can cut down significantly on the amount you use of this particular natural resource. Plus, if you’ve spent a good amount of money on your landscape, the extra water costs might outweigh the risk of losing precious grass or plants.

One of the key steps you can take to have a sprinkler system function properly is to set it up with zones — a specific set of water outlets to a specific area of your yard. That lets you give low-water usage plants less moisture, while delivering greater amounts to grasses or other plantings that need it.

Are You a Drip…

There are basically two types of irrigation systems for your yard: drip and sprinkler. Drip systems consist of a long stretch of either flexible or rigid tubing that runs to a specific part of your yard. The tubing can be either above ground or buried 2 inches below ground. Water travels through the tube and slowly leaks out into the surrounding soil, which has the benefit of feeding the roots of your greenery directly.

According to the AWWA, drip irrigation systems use just 16% more water than standard households versus 35% for normal sprinkler systems — so they’re also more water efficient. Part of the reason is that sprinklers broadcast water over a large area, which means some of that moisture is lost to evaporation; drip systems avoid this problem. That being said, drip systems are really best for watering specific areas of your yard, such as flower beds, rather than an entire lawn, which can be better served by the greater range of a sprinkler system.

According to Lawn Love, you can expect to pay an average of $223 to $2,000 (CAD 306 to CAD 2,745) per watering zone for a drip irrigation system with the tubing above ground, and about $815 to $4,335 (CAD 1,118 to CAD 5,950) per acre for a system with buried tubes, which is helpful if you’ll be mowing the area where it’s installed.

…Or Are You More of a Sprinkle?

The second major type of home sprinkler system is one that uses a series of sprinkler heads sunk in the ground and spaced apart to provide broad irrigation coverage. These systems consist of a main water line and a series of branch lines that travel to the individual sprinkler heads.

The ultimate cost of a sprinkler system is determined by a number of factors, including how easy it is to dig the trenches in your yard, how many zones and heads you’ll need, whether you’ll do the job yourself, and whether local building codes require you to hire a plumber to connect the system to your home’s water supply.

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DIY or Pro

According to data from Lawn Love, a professionally installed sprinkler system for an average yard measuring 1,000 to 3,000 square meters will run between $500 and $1,500 (CAD 700 and CAD 2,100). Doing the job yourself, however, would save significant cash, ringing up at around $130 to $260 (CAD 180 to CAD 360). If your landscape watering needs are relatively simple, or you only need to sprinkle a portion of your yard, you may very well wish to go it alone.

One important consideration to take into account before you begin is to measure your home’s water pressure, which you can do by attaching a pressure gauge to your hose bib. Most sprinkler systems best operate around 30 psi (pounds per square inch of pressure) or more, so if your pressure is lower than that, you’ll need a system designed for a more minimal flow.

Keep in mind that a pro may be able to bring benefits to the job that you might not otherwise be able to take advantage of. Pros know their way around local permitting laws, will work with a plumber if needed to get your system installed legally, and will be aware of which parts of your yard to avoid due to water lines or other utilities. A good irrigation system installer will also help you plan the number of sprinkler heads and zones you’ll need for your particular area of the country and the types of plants you have. If you’re still in the planning stages of your landscaping project, pros can also provide input in terms of what to plant where to minimize water usage.

Smart Vs. Not

Beyond choosing either a drip or sprinkler system, and choosing the right sprinkler heads for your needs (which are inexpensive at around $45 (CAD 60) for a pack of four), you’ll also want to decide what kind of control system you’d like your system to run off of. Thumbtack says this can be as simple as a heavy-duty sprinkler timer that clicks your system on and off at the same time each day — which could cost as little as $50 (CAD 70) for a six-zone controller — to a modern “smart” system that connects to the internet and special in-ground sensors to adjust your watering schedule based on weather forecasts and soil saturation. A smart sprinkler controller should run in the range of $60 to $300 (CAD 80 to CAD 415), depending on the features you need.

The number of zones you set up will also factor into the final cost for your project. According to HomeGuide, every additional zone you add to a system will run about $300 to $700 (CAD 415 to CAD 960) in extra expense.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

If you work hard on your home’s landscaping, installing some kind of home irrigation system might be the best way to ensure your toils don’t go to waste. An irrigation system can keep your lawn green, your flowers and shrubbery thriving, and can even increase the value of your home. What’s more, new smart irrigation systems can connect with weather forecasts and use sensing technology to keep water usage to a minimum. Still, these systems can cost as much as $7,000 for professional installation, so deciding to put one in should be carefully mulled over.

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Here are some things to consider as you’re thinkin’ ’bout sprinklin’:

Do You Need a Sprinkler System?

It might seem like an obvious answer, but understanding your need for a sprinkler system is an important part of this process. You’ll want to take into consideration what your actual watering needs are. Do you live in a place that gets plenty of rain? Do you have a large lawn that needs coverage, or are there only a few areas that need consistent moisture? Is your yard planted with local vegetation that can withstand the weather fluctuations in your area, or do you have specialized plantings that need extra attention?

A good way to determine how often your grass needs water is simply to step on it: If it springs back, then it’s fine but if not, it needs to be watered. By conducting this simple test over a few weeks, you’ll get a sense of just how much of a water deficit there may be in your yard.

While installing a sprinkler system might seem like an efficient way to keep your plantings and grass healthy, according to a study by the American Water Works Association (as reported by the EPA), the most water-efficient way to keep your yard at the proper moisture level is to use a hose. The group says that manually watering with a hose will use 33% less water outdoors than average household usage, while in-ground sprinklers cause 35% more usage. Even more surprising is that sprinkler systems on timers actually use 47% more water than normal.

That being said, if you set up and use your sprinkler system with water usage in mind, you can cut down significantly on the amount you use of this particular natural resource. Plus, if you’ve spent a good amount of money on your landscape, the extra water costs might outweigh the risk of losing precious grass or plants.

One of the key steps you can take to have a sprinkler system function properly is to set it up with zones — a specific set of water outlets to a specific area of your yard. That lets you give low-water usage plants less moisture, while delivering greater amounts to grasses or other plantings that need it.

Are You a Drip…

There are basically two types of irrigation systems for your yard: drip and sprinkler. Drip systems consist of a long stretch of either flexible or rigid tubing that runs to a specific part of your yard. The tubing can be either above ground or buried 2 inches below ground. Water travels through the tube and slowly leaks out into the surrounding soil, which has the benefit of feeding the roots of your greenery directly.

According to the AWWA, drip irrigation systems use just 16% more water than standard households versus 35% for normal sprinkler systems — so they’re also more water efficient. Part of the reason is that sprinklers broadcast water over a large area, which means some of that moisture is lost to evaporation; drip systems avoid this problem. That being said, drip systems are really best for watering specific areas of your yard, such as flower beds, rather than an entire lawn, which can be better served by the greater range of a sprinkler system.

According to Lawn Love, you can expect to pay an average of $223 to $2,000 (CAD 306 to CAD 2,745) per watering zone for a drip irrigation system with the tubing above ground, and about $815 to $4,335 (CAD 1,118 to CAD 5,950) per acre for a system with buried tubes, which is helpful if you’ll be mowing the area where it’s installed.

…Or Are You More of a Sprinkle?

The second major type of home sprinkler system is one that uses a series of sprinkler heads sunk in the ground and spaced apart to provide broad irrigation coverage. These systems consist of a main water line and a series of branch lines that travel to the individual sprinkler heads.

The ultimate cost of a sprinkler system is determined by a number of factors, including how easy it is to dig the trenches in your yard, how many zones and heads you’ll need, whether you’ll do the job yourself, and whether local building codes require you to hire a plumber to connect the system to your home’s water supply.

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DIY or Pro

According to data from Lawn Love, a professionally installed sprinkler system for an average yard measuring 1,000 to 3,000 square meters will run between $500 and $1,500 (CAD 700 and CAD 2,100). Doing the job yourself, however, would save significant cash, ringing up at around $130 to $260 (CAD 180 to CAD 360). If your landscape watering needs are relatively simple, or you only need to sprinkle a portion of your yard, you may very well wish to go it alone.

One important consideration to take into account before you begin is to measure your home’s water pressure, which you can do by attaching a pressure gauge to your hose bib. Most sprinkler systems best operate around 30 psi (pounds per square inch of pressure) or more, so if your pressure is lower than that, you’ll need a system designed for a more minimal flow.

Keep in mind that a pro may be able to bring benefits to the job that you might not otherwise be able to take advantage of. Pros know their way around local permitting laws, will work with a plumber if needed to get your system installed legally, and will be aware of which parts of your yard to avoid due to water lines or other utilities. A good irrigation system installer will also help you plan the number of sprinkler heads and zones you’ll need for your particular area of the country and the types of plants you have. If you’re still in the planning stages of your landscaping project, pros can also provide input in terms of what to plant where to minimize water usage.

Smart Vs. Not

Beyond choosing either a drip or sprinkler system, and choosing the right sprinkler heads for your needs (which are inexpensive at around $45 (CAD 60) for a pack of four), you’ll also want to decide what kind of control system you’d like your system to run off of. Thumbtack says this can be as simple as a heavy-duty sprinkler timer that clicks your system on and off at the same time each day — which could cost as little as $50 (CAD 70) for a six-zone controller — to a modern “smart” system that connects to the internet and special in-ground sensors to adjust your watering schedule based on weather forecasts and soil saturation. A smart sprinkler controller should run in the range of $60 to $300 (CAD 80 to CAD 415), depending on the features you need.

The number of zones you set up will also factor into the final cost for your project. According to HomeGuide, every additional zone you add to a system will run about $300 to $700 (CAD 415 to CAD 960) in extra expense.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

You don’t have to be an experienced homeowner to know that having a fully functional central AC system is incredibly important. Not only does it keep you and your family cool and comfortable during the sweltering summer months, but it also can help keep the air in your home clean and lower your family’s exposure to indoor allergens like pollen, mold and dust mites.

This May Also Interest You: 10 Ways to Make Your Central Air Conditioner More Efficient

Yet, like any other major home appliance, air conditioners require routine maintenance to maximize their benefits. Taking the time to clean your central air conditioning unit regularly will keep it running smoothly and efficiently for as long as possible. Heck — It can even keep your energy bills lower in the process.

Fortunately, regular AC maintenance is pretty simple. In other words, you won’t need to hire anyone for the job; you can do it yourself.

Looking to keep your central AC system in good shape? Here are a few important, routine maintenance tasks that’ll help keep things “chill.”

Replace or Clean Your Air Filters

Perhaps the most essential — and easiest — AC maintenance task is to regularly replace or clean your air filters. Dirty, clogged filters severely limit your AC’s efficiency by decreasing your system’s airflow. Additionally, when a filter is clogged, air can bypass the filter, allowing unfiltered air to flow throughout your HVAC system, potentially damaging the evaporator coil in the process.

Air filters on central air conditioning units are usually found along the length of the return duct, typically in the wall or ceiling or sometimes, in the air conditioner itself. Depending on the type of filters you have, you’ll either need to replace or clean them. If you don’t know what type of filter you have, you can easily determine it by examining the filter itself.

If the filter is made of a nylon weave or plastic mesh material, it’s more than likely a washable filter. If so, simply rinse the filter with warm water and replace it once it dries.

As for replaceable filters, make sure you purchase ones with high MERV ratings to maximize indoor air quality. Regardless of the scenario, plan on replacing or cleaning your air filters at least once every three months. You should replace the filter more often if you find that it gets dirty very quickly, or if you have air pollutants in your home like pet fur or cigarette smoke.

Clean Your AC Coils

Another important maintenance task that will ensure your HVAC system is in good condition is to clean your AC evaporator and condenser coils at least once a year. Luckily, it’s also a fairly simple job.

Keeping your air filters clean will, in turn, keep your evaporator coil cleaner for a longer period of time. However, the coil will still collect dirt eventually. Over time, dirt and debris will insulate the coil, impacting the way it absorbs heat. You can find evaporator coils indoors, inside the air handler in your basement, closet, garage or attic. Look for a removable access panel on the air handler to find the evaporator coil. Use a nylon brush to clean the dust and debris off the coils, then rinse them with water in a spray bottle. When you’re finished rinsing, reassemble the access panel.

In addition to the evaporator coils, you should clean the condenser coils regularly, as well. When these get dirty and clogged, the condenser fan and compressors have to work harder to maintain the output of cool air in the home.

To clean them, remove the outer case and caging from the outdoor condenser unit. You’ll be removing the lid to the condenser and working inside the unit, so make sure that you shut off your AC prior to the task. From there, use a garden hose with a spray nozzle to clear away any dirt and debris in the fins. Finally, dry the coils with a cloth and then reassemble the condenser unit.

Try to keep the area around the condenser unit clear. Clear away and remove any tall grass, vines or tree limbs that might interrupt airflow.

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Check the Condensate Drain Line

Condensate drain lines remove excess moisture buildup in central air conditioning systems. Typically, a condensate line runs through an AC unit, exiting outside. When it’s functioning properly, water drips out as the system runs. If a condensation line were to become clogged, moisture would eventually accumulate inside the home AC system, leading to mold and mildew growth that could potentially damage ductwork or insulation. That’s why cleaning your drain line regularly is a crucial bit of AC maintenance. While relatively easy, cleaning your drain line is a bit more time-consuming than other AC maintenance tasks.

To clean your AC drain line, first, find the air conditioning system’s drip pan. You can locate the drip pan underneath the air handler. Start by removing any water left in the pan, then clean it with warm water and soap. Once it’s clean, replace the drip pan back under the air handler.

When the drip pan is clean, find the exit point of your drain line. Generally, these are located on the outside of your AC unit. Open the PVC cap and, using a small brush, clean out any debris and backed-up debris left in the line. When you’re done, be sure to leave the cap off the exit point until you’ve flushed the drain line.

Finally, you’ll want to find and clean the access point of your condensation drain line. Usually, these are located inside your home, near the air handler. Like the exit point, the access point also has a PVC cap. Pour a mixture of hot water and vinegar into the access point to flush the drain line. When you’ve flushed the drain line, replace the caps on both the access point and the exit point.

Keeping Things Running Smoothly

Performing regular maintenance on your AC is the best way to ensure that you’re getting the most benefits from your system all season long. In addition to completing these maintenance tasks, consider having your system inspected by an AC technician once a year as well. While it might be an added yearly expense, doing so will keep your system in peak condition. And when it comes to those dog days of summer, you don’t want to take any chances.

Nothing disrupts a nice warm shower like an unexpected temperature shift when someone flushes the toilet. If your shower gets hot after a toilet is flushed, it can be more than annoying; it may actually hurt you if the temperature fluctuation results in scalding hot water coming out of your showerhead. And it’s not just hot water you could get hit with in the shower. Cold water can sometimes surprise you, too, when a toilet flushes or if certain appliances are running.

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But how does flushing the toilet affect the shower? If this issue is occurring in your home, it probably involves your water pressure and the configuration of your pipes. Luckily, this annoyance is something that can be remedied without spending too much time or money.

Someone Flushed the Toilet — Why Does the Shower Get Hot?

So, why does flushing the toilet affect the shower? Without getting super technical, most homes use a plumbing system with pipes arranged in what’s called a trunk and branch system, which is just like it sounds: Bigger, main pipes are the “trunk” that then send water out to the smaller branches. The branches are what connect to the sinks, toilets, showers, dishwashers and other fixtures in your home. Temperature fluctuations like hot water in the shower when the toilet flushes occur when the water pressure is unstable and pulls water from one branch or appliance that’s being used to another.

While there are bigger plumbing projects you can tackle to address this issue, like widening the trunk or installing a more complex, well-balanced system, there are simpler ways to fix the problem. If you’re in the market for an easy and affordable fix, you can either install a thermostatic mixing valve to your shower or adjust the supply valve on your toilet.

A thermostatic mixing valve will keep a check on the water pressure of both the hot and cold water supply lines entering the shower before the cold water mixes with the hot. If the pressure of one drops, it will adjust the other accordingly to help keep the shower temperature consistent, in spite of any toilet flushing action occurring elsewhere in the house.

Another way to tackle this issue is to limit the water flow to your toilets. You can do this by closing the toilet supply valve a bit. Doing so will cause your toilet to fill more slowly, but it will help minimize the temperature fluctuations in other plumbing branches, like your shower.

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Why Might the Shower Get Cold When Someone Flushes the Toilet?

A blast of hot water is not the only sudden temperature shift you may experience in the shower. Flushing the toilet can make the shower cold too. This can also happen when you start running another tap or appliance, like a washing machine or dishwasher, that requires water and thus disrupts the water distribution and pressure of your shower. Luckily, you can deal with the issue in the same way that you’d address the hot water problem, so that your water temperature woes can be solved in one fell swoop.

Flush Freely

Water in the shower is meant to stay at a comfortable temperature of your choosing. Sure, cold showers are trending, but any cold or hot blasts to shock the system should be up to you, and not an unfortunate side effect of your home’s imbalanced plumbing. If you feel like updating your plumbing to a more sophisticated system that solves the problem, by all means, do so. But you can also try fixing the issue with much simpler, more affordable strategies that will help keep your water pressure balanced. By installing a thermostatic mixing valve to your shower and/or adjusting your toilet supply valve, you can easily take control of your shower temperature and steer clear of both hot and cold surprises while you bathe.

Hard water is water that’s high in dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium. It can cause a wide range of problems in your home, like affecting the taste of drinking and cooking water, staining toilet bowls and sinks and damaging appliances like washing machines and hot water tanks.

This May Also Interest You: What Is a Water Softener?

If your home has excessively hard water, the best solution is to install a whole-home water softener. The most common type of residential water softener is an ion-exchange system, which uses negatively charged resin beads to attract the positively charged minerals before exchanging them with “softer,” positively charged sodium or potassium chloride. Then, the softer water is dispensed into your home’s water supply.

Installing a water softener requires considerable comfort with DIY projects and some plumbing knowledge that goes beyond the basics, so it’s not a suitable project for every homeowner. That said, installing a water softener yourself can lead to substantial savings over having it professionally installed.

If you feel up to the task, follow this basic installation guide.

Before You Begin

Before you commit to installing a water softener, verify that your water actually needs to be softened. While hard water has many deleterious consequences, soft water can prematurely corrode pipes and elevate the sodium levels of your home’s drinking water. Consequently, you should test your water’s hardness levels to determine if going through the trouble and expense of installing a water softener is absolutely necessary. You can contact your local water company to see if they have your water supply’s hardness level on file, or you can purchase an at-home hard water test kit. In either case, softening your water should only be necessary if your water hardness exceeds 7 grams per gallon.

Once you’ve determined that you actually need a water softener, figure out where you’re going to install the unit. It should be installed as close to where the main water supply enters your home as possible, which is often in a garage or basement. Additionally, it should be installed before the water line reaches your home’s hot water heater so that the tank and hot water lines don’t become contaminated with hard water.

Next, ensure that the area you’ll be installing the unit is large enough to accommodate both of the softener’s tanks. Most water softeners have a “mineral tank” that houses the resin beads and a “brine tank” that contains the salt or potassium chloride. These tanks need to be installed side-by-side. The installation location also needs to be near an electrical outlet to provide power to the unit and within reach of a drain such as a utility sink or floor drain.

Finally, if anyone in your household is on a low-sodium diet, use potassium chloride salt in the brine tank instead of sodium chloride, which is common table salt.

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How to Install a Water Softener

What You’ll Need

• Screwdriver
• Tape measure
• Flexible water supply line
• Adapter for flexible supply line
• Copper pipe and fittings
• PVC pipe and fittings
• Hacksaw, copper pipe cutter, or PVC cutter)
• Solder flux and blow torch

Step 1: Install a Bypass Valve

Most water softeners come with a bypass valve that lets you shut off the water supply to the unit when it needs to be serviced while still allowing water into your home. It consists of two valves: one where the main water supply line enters the unit, and the other where the softened water exits to be transported into your home. Press the valve into the corresponding port on the back of the control module (the box that houses the LCD display screen) and secure it in place with the provided clamps.

Step 2: Shut off the Water

Locate and close the shut-off valve to your home’s main water supply. Drain the water out of your home’s water lines by opening a sink faucet until water stops flowing.

Step 3: Tie Into the Water Supply Line

The two most common ways to connect a water softener to your home’s main water supply are by hard-piping it with rigid copper or PVC pipe, or by using flexible supply lines similar to those used on washing machines and hot water heaters. The type you use may depend on your local building codes, the type of pipe your home’s main water line uses or personal preference.

Sections of copper plumbing pipe and fittings can either be soldered together with solder flux and a blow torch, or connected with push-fit fittings like SharkBite connectors. When soldering copper, you should cut and preassemble the pipes and fittings before installing them onto the water softener, because the heat from the blow torch can damage the softener’s plastic components. Flexible supply lines are often the easiest to use since they don’t require any cutting or pre-assembly, but you may need to use a special adapter to connect the flexible line to your water supply line and/or the water softener’s bypass valve.

Use a copper pipe cutter (for copper pipe), PVC cutter (for PVC pipe) or hacksaw (for either) to make two cuts into the main water supply line. One cut should be to one side of the softener where the water line first enters your home, and the other cut should be to the other side of the softener where the line continues into your home.

Install the water softener’s water supply lines onto both sides of your home’s main water supply line using the appropriate fittings and adapter. The type of fittings and adapters you’ll need will depend on the type of pipe used for the main water and water softener lines. The pipe connected to the main water supply where it first enters your home should be installed on the inlet side of the water softener’s bypass valve. The pipe connected to where the main line continues into your home should be installed onto the outlet side of the softener.

Step 4: Fill and Connect the Tanks

Connect the mineral tank to the brine tank with the provided tubing and clamps. Fill the brine tank with the amount of water and sodium or potassium chloride salt that’s recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 5: Connect Drain Tubes

Most water softeners require a drain hose that transports the discharge water from the mineral tank during its backwash cycle, and an overflow drain connected to the brine tank to prevent the tank from overflowing onto the floor. Both drain tubes can go to the same drain, but they can’t be connected together. Connect the drain tubes to each tank and run them to the closest drain.

Step 6: Turn the Water and Start the Unit

Partially open the main water supply valve to your home until it’s in the 1/4 position, and allow trapped air in the line to escape. Once you can hear a steady stream of water running into the tank — without any hissing sounds that indicate air is still escaping — you can fully open the main water valve to begin filling the mineral tank.

Plug the unit into the nearest electrical outlet and turn on the control module. Follow the startup procedure on the screen, which will often involve setting the time and desired water hardness level.

Step 7: Run the Backwash Cycle

Run a backwash cycle to purge the remaining air from the system and loosen the resin beads in the mineral tank. While the backwash cycle is running, inspect all the plumbing lines and connections for leaks. Once the cycle is complete, check the brine tank and adjust the brine solution as necessary.