You turn on your HVAC system, and … it just works, right? If you’re skipping HVAC maintenance, your system could be working on a wing and a prayer.

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While it might seem silly to hire an HVAC technician to perform regular HVAC tune-ups, that service could save you a lot of money and stress in the long run.

What Are the Benefits of Properly Maintaining Your HVAC System?

When your budget is already tight, and your schedule is busy, it might be tempting to skip HVAC maintenance. But it could help you keep your system running better and save you money. You can perform some maintenance tasks, such as changing the filter and cleaning the unit, but it’s also important to schedule annual tune-ups with a professional HVAC technician. Here’s why.

1. Improved System Efficiency

When you don’t take care of your heating and cooling equipment, it has to work a lot harder to keep your home comfortable. This can happen if the parts inside get dirty and can’t work as well or if parts start to wear out and interfere with operations. When an HVAC pro performs a tune-up, they clean out the system and lubricate moving parts, so they can glide easily with less wear. If they find minor issues that are affecting efficiency, they can fix them to restore peak efficiency.

2. Lower Utility Bills

Using less energy to heat and cool your home is great for the environment, but it’s also a nice bonus for your bank account. When your equipment works efficiently, you’ll pay less for your utilities. Keeping an eye on your power bills can help you monitor the health of your HVAC equipment. If you notice your bills increasing, it could mean it’s working harder than it should due to a hidden issue.

3. Fewer Repair Calls

Sure, you have to pay for a tune-up — you can expect to pay around $170 (CAD 226) for  HVAC maintenance costs. But it could save you on more costly repairs in the future. Taking care of the system can prevent excess wear and damage to parts, which can help you avoid lots of repairs. For example, a dirty air filter can reduce airflow, make the system work harder and damage parts.

The repairs that result from lack of maintenance can be expensive. For instance, leak repair can range from $300 to $1,000 (CAD 398 to CAD 1,328). Replacement condenser coils usually cost between $500 and $750 (CAD 663 and CAD 996). Maintenance might not prevent all repairs, but it can reduce your risks of more expensive repair services.

4. Longer Life

Just like a well-maintained car usually carries you through a lot more road trips, maintaining your heating and cooling system helps it last longer. Tune-ups reduce the strain on your system by helping it work optimally. Less strain means the internal parts should hold out longer. That means you can hold on to your equipment a little longer before you have to invest a lot of money into a new unit.

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• How Your Home’s HVAC Systems Work
• How Much Does HVAC Repair and Maintenance Cost?
• Is an HVAC Tune-Up Worth the Price? (Yes, Yes It Is)

5. Satisfying Warranty Requirements

If you have a newer HVAC system, tune-ups might not be optional if you want to keep your warranty coverage. Many manufacturers require you to get annual checkups from a professional HVAC technician to keep the warranty in effect. Since it’s a good way to prevent issues, the manufacturer does this as a way to minimize potential repairs.

6. Improved Safety

During an HVAC tune-up, a series of safety checks are performed to make sure everything is working correctly. Issues with the equipment can cause carbon monoxide leaks, gas leaks or electrical fires, which can all be potentially deadly. An HVAC technician checks for situations that could cause those safety risks and provides repair solutions to keep your home and family safe.

7. Better Indoor Air Quality

All the air in your home circulates through your HVAC system. Keeping the equipment in good working order can help you breathe a little easier with healthier indoor air. When the system works correctly, it pulls dirt, pet dander and other contaminants from the air with the air filter. It also helps control humidity in your home, which contributes to comfort and prevents mold buildup.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

While most people know that fall and raking go hand-in-hand, most homeowners are unaware of the multitude of home maintenance tasks that should be done during this season. Ignoring some of these tasks is relatively harmless, but neglecting others can leave your home exposed to serious damage over the harsh winter months.

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To keep that from happening to you, follow this fall home maintenance checklist to get your home ready for winter — inside and out.

Outdoor Fall Maintenance Tasks

Clean Your Gutters and Downspouts

Gutters and downspouts play a key role in protecting your doors, windows, siding and foundation from water damage. Cleaning them in the fall — after most of the leaves have fallen from the surrounding trees — is essential for protecting your home over the winter.

You can either clean your gutters from the roof or the ground. Using a ladder to climb up to the roof and manually removing leaves and other foreign matter is the most common method, but it’s also the most labor-intensive, time-consuming and dangerous. That being said, there are several types of gutter scoops available that can make the job easier.

A quicker and safer method is to clean your gutters from the ground using a gutter cleaning attachment on a pressure washer. If you don’t own a pressure washer yourself, you can rent one from many rental and home improvement companies, or borrow one.

Along with the gutters, check the downspouts for any obstructions that can restrict the flow of water from exiting the drain. If they’re clogged, you can usually insert the tip of a plumber’s snake into the bottom opening of the downspout and clear the obstruction like you would a regular drain.

Check Your Roof

The roof is your home’s first line of defense against interior water damage, so ensuring it’s in good condition before winter can spare you from expensive roof repairs down the road. If you’re cleaning your gutters from the roof, that’s an excellent time to inspect the condition of your roof as well. Otherwise, you can use a pair of binoculars to inspect your roof from afar. In either case, check your roof for:

• Cracked, damaged or missing shingles — especially on the ridge
• Shingles with moss and algae buildup, which may indicate underlying water damage
• Rusty, warped, loose or missing flashing
• Cracked, loose or missing rubber collars (AKA boots) around roof vents.

These issues should be repaired by a qualified professional as soon as possible. If you’re in doubt about the condition of your roof, it’s wise to hire a professional inspector.

Minimize Mold Risk on Your Lawn

Leaving a thick bed of fallen leaves through the winter months leaves it susceptible to a fungus called “snow mold” that causes discolored patches of grass in the affected area. As a result, thick sections of leaves should be removed from your lawn with a rake or leaf blower prior to heavy rain or snow. However, keeping a thin layer of leaves on your lawn will provide a beneficial layer of mulch, which will naturally fertilize the lawn as the leaves decompose.

Mowing your grass down to 1 1/2 to 2 inches (4 to 5 centimeters) can also combat snow mold, and mowing over leaves will help promote decomposition.

Treat Your Lawn: Aerate and Fertilize

Three weeks after your last mowing for the year, aerating and fertilizing your lawn will help keep it healthy — and in some cases, alive — through winter. Aerating is the process of puncturing holes into, or removing plugs from, your lawn. Doing so helps relieve soil compaction and allows for more air, water and nutrients to enter the soil. Aerating can either be performed manually with a number of aerating tools, or mechanically with an aerator that is often operated like a conventional lawnmower. Mechanical aerators can be rented from a number of machine rental and home improvement companies.

Immediately after aerating, apply a fall fertilizer to give your lawn an extra boost.

Prune Your Trees

Late fall is the ideal time to prune, for the health of the trees and the safety of your home. Tree limbs should ideally be cut 3 feet (1 meter) away from your house — especially if they’re hanging above the roof. Overhanging limbs can accumulate moisture that will drip onto the roof and siding, placing both at heightened risk for moisture damage. They can also cause catastrophic damage to your home if they break off and land on your roof. If the limbs can’t be fully removed, the deadwood should be removed from overhanging limbs at a minimum.

Consider hiring a professional arborist to trim your trees if you’re not experienced or equipped to do so yourself.

Winterize Your Water Lines

Standing water in outdoor water lines (above-ground spigots and underground irrigation lines) can freeze and cause them to rupture when temperatures drop. To combat this, they should either be fully drained or properly insulated.

Start by closing the shut-off valves that service your outdoor water lines. Once the water is off, open the valves on your above-ground spigots to drain residual water pressure from the lines. If you don’t have a designated shut-off valve that controls your outdoor spigots, wrap the pipes with pipe insulation. Drain any garden hoses that were connected to the spigots and bring them indoors for storage.

Below-ground irrigation systems should have their controller shut off and their lines drained. The exact shut-off and drainage procedure will vary between manufacturers, so you should either consult with the manual provided with your system or call an irrigation professional. If your irrigation system doesn’t have integrated drain valves, you may need to hire a pro to blow out the lines with compressed air.

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• Got Brown Patches and Bald Spots? Here’s How to Fix Lawn Damage
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Indoor Fall Maintenance Tasks

Prepare Your Heating System

Your home’s central heating system should be inspected and serviced annually by a qualified professional. If your home has a central HVAC system — combining heating and air conditioning — you may have already serviced your system as a part of your summer maintenance. If you didn’t get around to it, or if your home has a central heating boiler system, fall’s the perfect time to have your system professionally checked.

You can perform the following tasks yourself:

• Install a new furnace filter
• Release trapped air from (bleed) your hot water radiators
• Clean out clogged air vents on your steam radiators

Service Your Chimney

Your chimney should be cleaned after every 50 to 70 burns, or every 1 to 2 years. Over time, your chimney accumulates a compound called creosote that’s a major contributor to devastating chimney fires. A professional chimney cleaner will remove the creosote buildup from your chimney and inspect it for other potentially harmful elements, like a cracked liner or foreign material obstructions.

Store or Cover Your Window AC Unit

The exterior portion of window AC units can become damaged from excessive exposure to rain, snow and freezing temperatures. Protect your window AC unit from winter damage by removing it from the window and storing it indoors, or by covering the exposed portion. Window AC covers are available in a variety of sizes, so it’s important to take accurate measurements of your unit to order a cover with the proper dimensions.

Seal Gaps

Gaps between windows and doors are a primary contributor to heat loss, and large enough gaps can let rodents and insects into your home. Sealing gaps will keep unwanted critters out, and can slash up to 20% off your winter heating bill, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Start by visually inspecting around windows and doors for visible gaps or evidence of damaged caulking and weatherstripping. To locate gaps not visible to the naked eye, you can hold a stick of incense up to your windows and doors to see if any smoke gets sucked or blown outside. That indicates an air leak.

Weatherstripping can be installed around window and door frames, and you can apply caulk around trim, jambs and penetrations from plumbing, electrical or gas lines. Large gaps that can’t be caulked can be filled with insulating foam sealant.

Inspect Safety Devices

Your home’s safety devices — smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers — should be inspected and serviced annually. Giving them once-over in the fall can also be valuable, especially if you have a wood-burning fireplace.

Here’s what to do:

• Replace the batteries in each one of your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Use the “test” feature on each smoke alarm and carbon monoxide detector to verify they’re working properly.
• Check the pressure gauge on each of your fire extinguishers to ensure they’re fully charged.
• Check the purchase or manufacture date on each fire extinguisher, and replace any that are over six years old.

Change Your Ceiling Fan Direction

Over the winter, the blades on your ceiling fan should rotate clockwise to push the hot air collected near the ceiling towards the ground. Most ceiling fans have a switch on the side of the housing that controls the direction of the blades. If the switch on your fan is set to a counterclockwise rotation, switch it over to clockwise while the fan is off.

Prepare Equipment for Winter

Mechanical equipment that sits for long periods of time can develop start-up or running issues if it isn’t properly stored. Winterize mechanical lawn care equipment like lawnmowers, leaf blowers and chainsaws by draining their fuel tanks or adding a fuel stabilizer. You may also consider replacing the oil or having your equipment professionally serviced.

If you own a snowblower or similar equipment, make sure they’re in working order before the snow begins to fall. If they weren’t properly stored, they may have start-up or running issues, like a clogged carburetor or filter. Fall’s a great time to have your snow equipment professionally serviced to ensure it’ll remain operational all winter long.

If you’ve lived in your home for more than a couple of months, you’ve probably dealt with at least a minor plumbing issue. Clogged drains or toilets or dripping faucets are examples of plumbing problems most people have experienced.

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Dripping Faucet

Dripping faucets allow water through even when you’ve turned them off. A slow dripping faucet can be annoying and, over time, increases how much water you use.

Common Signs of a Plumbing Issue With a Dripping Faucet

• Consistent, slow drops of water from the faucet even if you turn it off all the way
• Pooling water below the faucet
• Mineral deposits around the faucet
• Dripping sounds from the bathroom or kitchen

How to Fix a Dripping Faucet

Worn O-rings and washers can cause this plumbing problem, as can loose or worn faucets. To fix the issue, turn the water off to the area in question. Replace the entire faucet or worn parts.

Clogged Toilets

Clogged toilets are one of the most common plumbing issues. They occur when waste builds up or gets stuck in drain lines or the trap.

Common Signs of a Clogged Toilet

• The toilet overflows
• The water and waste don’t clear the toilet when you flush
• Water rises to an above-normal level after flushing

How to Fix a Clogged Toilet

Most toilet clogs are minor plumbing issues you can easily resolve with basic DIY measures like using a plunger. You may be able to clear more stubborn clogs with a toilet auger, which can reach down into the trap to break up debris. More serious clogs or recurrent clogs may require professional plumbing resolutions.

Low Water Pressure

When water flows from your faucets with less force than you’re used to, it makes for a less-than-satisfying shower. Low water pressure can also reduce the effectiveness of cleaning and appliances.

Troubleshooting Low Water Pressure

• Weak or slow flow from any faucet or showerhead, even when you turn it on all the way
• It takes longer than normal to fill a sink, tub or pot with water
• Water pressure goes up and down, especially when other taps are open

How to Fix This Low Water Pressure

If water pressure is a problem at a single location, check that the faucet or showerhead isn’t clogged or dirty. Swap out the aerator or washers if needed. If you have low flow through your entire home, consider getting a plumber to assess your system to make recommendations.

Leaking Pipes

Your sink pipe leaking or a leaking toilet pipe means water is flowing out of your system at an inappropriate location. Leaks can range from a slow seep to a major burst, but in all cases, they can cause water damage and mold in your home.

Common Signs of Leaky Pipes

• Water stains on ceilings, floors or walls, especially when they appear suddenly or get bigger
• Mold, mildew or smells of either
• Persistent moisture around pipes
• An unexplained spike in your water bill

How to Fix a Leaking Pipe

If you find a leak in an exposed pipe, consider where the damage is and how extensive it is. Many homeowners can make basic pipe repairs, such as replacing a joint or section of pipe, on their own. For more extensive issues or when leaks are behind walls, consider calling professional plumbers.

Clogged Drains

Clogged drains occur when debris within the drain pipes slow or completely impede the flow of water out of sinks or tubs.

Common Signs of a Clogged Drain

• Water drains slower than normal
• You hear gurgling sounds from the drain
• Water backs up into a nearby fixture, such as a dishwasher
• You smell unpleasant odors near the drain

How to Fix a Clogged Drain

Drain snakes can help you clear bathroom drains, where hair and soap buildup can create blockages. Pouring boiling water down drains may also help reduce grease or soap buildup. Avoid using chemical drain cleaners often, as they can damage your plumbing system. For stubborn drain clogs, call in a professional for help.

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• Reasons Your Circuit Breaker Trips

Running Toilets

A running toilet occurs when water continues to run into the bowl after the flush cycle should be complete. When water is constantly running through a toilet, it can create a lot of waste and lead to a much higher water bill.

Common Signs of a Running Toilet

• The sounds of water trickling in your bathroom
• Phantom flushing, which occurs when your toilet seems to flush on its own
• An unexpectedly high water bill

How to Fix a Running Toilet

Check to see if your flapper needs to be replaced. Place a few drops of food coloring in the tank; don’t flush the toilet and wait around 15-20 minutes. If food coloring leaks into the bowl, it’s a good sign you need to replace the flapper. Next, check whether your fill valve is working. These are both fairly easy to replace, and if neither is the culprit, it may be time to call a plumber.

Not Enough Hot Water

If you don’t have enough hot water for your household’s demands, it could be a plumber problem or a logistics issue.

Common Signs of Water Heater Issues

• Hot water runs out faster than it used to
• Water doesn’t get hot enough, even when you run only hot water
• You have to wait a long time for hot water between uses
• Water temperature is inconsistent when you take a shower

How You Can Fix a Lack of Hot Water

First, check whether the temperature on your water heater is 120 degrees F. If that’s not the issue, consider getting a professional to inspect your water heater to identify issues that need repair.

Frozen Pipes

Frozen pipes happen in the winter when pipes are exposed to extremely low temperatures. At best, this issue can reduce water flow into your home. At worst, it can lead to pipe bursts that create leaks or floods when the freeze melts.

Common Signs of Frozen Pipes

• You experience low water pressure or no water during cold weather
• Frost is visible on pipes
• You notice that pipes are bulging or cracking

How to Fix Frozen Pipes

Open a faucet and apply gentle heat to the area of the pipe you think is frozen. Use a towel soaked in warm water or the low setting on a hair dryer, for example. Beyond minor freezes, you may want to call in a professional.

Your home’s pipes and drainage systems face unique challenges during torrential rainfalls that can turn your rainy day into a soggy nightmare.

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Before you find yourself ankle-deep in unwanted indoor pools, let’s dive into the common plumbing problems that heavy rainfall can create and how to prevent them.

1. Sewer Backups

Municipal sewer lines are designed to handle normal water flow, but during intense storms, they can reach capacity quickly. When this happens, the wastewater has no choice but to reverse course, potentially entering your home through toilets, floor drains or shower drains.

Prevention tips:

1. Install a backwater prevention valve that lets water flow out but not back in.
2. Have your sewer line inspected regularly for potential blockages.
3. Consider elevated toilets in basement bathrooms.
4. Avoid flushing toilets repeatedly during heavy rainstorms.

2. Clogged Drains

Heavy rain doesn’t travel alone — it brings friends in the form of leaves, twigs, dirt and debris that can create stubborn clogs in your drainage system. Can heavy rain affect plumbing problems you already have? Yes, because minor clogs can quickly become major blockages when rain adds pressure to the system.

Prevention tips:

• Schedule professional drain cleaning before the rainy season begins.
• Install guards on outdoor drains to catch debris.
• Keep gutters and downspouts clear of obstructions.
• Avoid using drains excessively during heavy rainfall.

3. Foundation Damage

Water pooling around your foundation isn’t just bad for your landscaping — it can lead to cracks that compromise your entire plumbing system. When heavy rainfall causes water to collect against your home’s foundation, the resulting pressure can damage underground pipes and create leaks that aren’t immediately visible. Watch for unexplained increases in water bills, damp spots, mold or mildew in your basement or shifting or settling of your home’s foundation.

Prevention tips:

• Ensure proper grading to direct water away from your home.
• Install or maintain functional gutter systems.
• Create a rain garden to absorb excess water.
• Use foundation waterproofing techniques.

4. Overflowing Gutters

When gutters become overwhelmed during heavy rainfall, the cascading water doesn’t just create that soothing waterfall sound — it can lead to serious plumbing issues. Properly functioning gutters are your first line of defense in moving water away from your home’s foundation and plumbing system.

Prevention tips:

• Clean gutters regularly, especially before the rainy season.
• Install gutter guards to prevent debris buildup.
• Ensure downspouts extend at least 3 to 5 feet from your foundation.
• Consider larger gutters if you live in an area with heavy rainfall.

More Related Articles:

• Snake’s in a Drain! How to Unclog Your Sink With a Drain Snake
• Checked Your Storm Drains Lately? Here’s a List of Maintenance Tasks
• Prevent Frozen-Pipe Problems by Knowing These Things Down Cold
• Pipe Burst? Here’s What to Do Next
• Au Revoir, Standing Water! How to Install a French Drain in 8 Steps

5. Sump Pump Failures

A sump pump is often your final defense against preventing basement flooding, but heavy rain can push these devices beyond their limits. During extended downpours, sump pumps may run continuously, leading to overheating or mechanical failures precisely when you need them most.

Prevention tips:

• Install a battery backup system for your sump pump.
• Consider a water-powered backup pump as secondary protection.
• Test your sump pump regularly before rainy seasons.
• Upgrade to a higher capacity pump if you live in flood-prone areas.

6. Broken Pipes

The dramatic increase in water volume during heavy storms creates additional pressure on your plumbing system. This pressure can find the weakest points in your pipes, turning small weaknesses into broken pipes and major leaks.

Older plumbing systems with corroded pipes are at high risk, as are previous repairs that weren’t properly completed. Also, pay attention to pipes in areas that experience freezing temperatures and improperly secured pipes that can shift during ground saturation.

Prevention tips:

• Have a professional plumbing inspection before rainy season.
• Replace older pipes proactively, especially in critical areas.
• Install pressure regulators to manage water flow during storms.
• Know the location of your main water shutoff valve for emergencies.

7. Ground Shifting

Few homeowners realize that saturated soil becomes surprisingly heavy and can shift dramatically during periods of heavy rainfall. This movement can bend, break or disconnect underground pipes in your plumbing system or sewer line.

Prevention tips:

• Install flexible pipe connections where possible.
• Use pipe materials appropriate for your soil conditions.
• Create proper drainage paths throughout your yard.
• Consider waterproofing underground pipe connections.

Preparing Your Plumbing for the Rainy Season

The best defense against rain-related plumbing disasters is proactive preparation before the rainy season begins:

• Schedule a comprehensive plumbing inspection.
• Clear all gutters, downspouts and outdoor drains.
• Test sump pumps and backup systems.
• Repair known small leaks or weak points.
• Install backflow preventers where appropriate.
• Create and maintain proper yard drainage.
• Waterproof vulnerable basement areas.
• Know your emergency plumber’s contact information.

By taking these steps before the storms arrive, you can significantly reduce your risk of experiencing serious plumbing emergencies during heavy rainfall.

Probably the most unwelcome thing indoors is the air conditioner quitting right when it’s needed most. Imagine struggling through the sweat because your AC develops a fault while the sun’s blazing.

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We’ve made this guide to help you avoid this scenario, focusing on the three most common air conditioner repair parts. With a little bit of knowledge, your home can remain an oasis, no matter the temperature outdoors.

Most Commonly Repaired Parts on an Air Conditioner

Many things can go wrong with an AC, but these three air conditioner repair parts are habitual culprits. Let’s look at what causes them to fail and how much the repairs might cost you. Keep in mind that your location and the brand and model of your HVAC system will influence the cost of your AC repair parts and labor fees.

1. Capacitors

Capacitors initiate and maintain the electrical processes powering your AC’s motor. They’re like temporary storage units for electrical energy, ready to provide the jolt needed to start the motor and keep it running smoothly. When they fail, your AC unit might struggle to start, resulting in inadequate cooling and possible damage to other AC components. Increased energy consumption is another effect and will impact your utility bills.

The most common causes of capacitor faults are:

• Weakening or failing due to the constant cycling and electrical demands
• Fluctuations in voltage or power surges placing electrical stress on them
• Struggle to initiate the startup sequence due to misalignment

Price to Repair or Replace

HomeGuide says you’re likely to pay between $10 and $50 (CAD 14 and CAD 68) for a low-end part and between $60 and $140 (CAD 82 and CAD 191) for one of higher quality. The overall cost for the AC repair ranges between $80 and $400 (CAD 109 and CAD 544).

Maintenance Tips

Watch out for obvious signs of wear and tear, such as bulging or leaking. Consider investing in a quality surge protector to shield your air conditioner from electrical stress and voltage fluctuations. Ideally, schedule professional HVAC maintenance from a trusted air conditioning service provider.

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• HVAC System Going ‘Thump’ in the Night? Here’s Why It’s Making Noise
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2. Compressors

Compressors circulate refrigerant, facilitating its transformation from a gas to a liquid state. This phase change is crucial for absorbing and releasing heat, enabling the AC unit to regulate indoor temperatures effectively. Consequently, it’s a contender for the air conditioning repair part you’ll want fixed first, because when compressors fail, so does the unit’s heating and cooling capacity.

The most common causes of compressor faults are:

• Simple wear and tear due to prolonged use, resulting in a gradual deterioration of its internal parts
• Inadequate or excessive refrigerant levels, as well as refrigerant cycle issues
• Voltage fluctuations, power surges or electrical imbalances placing excessive stress on the compressor

Price to Repair or Replace

Replacing or repairing a compressor is a particularly expensive air conditioning repair. The cost range varies wildly, from as little as $450 to $3,500 (CAD 612 to CAD 4,757), depending on the quality of the part and local labor fees. The size of the compressor is also a factor, with 5-ton units costing substantially more than their 2-ton alternatives.

Maintenance Tips

Regularly inspect the unit for signs of wear and tear, such as oil leaks or unusual noises. Ensure the compressor has proper ventilation, and keep the surrounding area free from debris to optimize airflow. Replace air filters following the manufacturer’s advice and instructions, and schedule routine professional maintenance.

3. Thermostats

Thermostats regulate your home’s temperature by monitoring and controlling the HVAC unit’s operation. Failure can lead to inaccurate temperature readings, unresponsiveness to your input or even a complete system breakdown. Inaccurate readings may cause the AC unit to run excessively, using more energy and increasing your utility bills. Uneven cooling is another unwelcome byproduct of a faulty thermostat.

The most common causes of thermostat faults are:

• Dirt and dust in the thermostat’s sensors and components
• Wiring problems, loose connections or faulty electrical components disrupting communication with the HVAC system
• Thermostats that rely on batteries for power becoming unresponsive or inaccurate due to low or dead batteries

Price to Repair or Replace

Including the unit and professional installation, HomeGuide says you can expect to pay between $140 and $350 (CAD 191 and CAD 476) to replace a thermostat. A significant factor in costs will be the type of thermostat. A manual one can cost as little as $55 (CAD 75) to buy and install, while a top-of-the-range smart thermostat will be in the region of $470 (CAD 639).

Maintenance Tips

To prevent inaccurate temperature readings, place the thermostat away from direct sunlight, drafts and heat-emitting appliances. Regularly clean its sensors and components to remove anything that may affect its precision. Check and replace batteries as needed, typically on an annual basis, and periodically review and recalibrate the thermostat’s settings for accurate temperature control.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

Figuring out how to beat the heat can be a challenging proposition, especially when the mercury rises during the summer months. It seems like every method has its drawbacks. Portable and ceiling fans move air around, but they don’t really cool your house. Air conditioning drops the indoor temperature, but it uses a lot of electricity.

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If you’re feeling the sting of high utility bills, you may be considering whether opting for a fan over air conditioning can help you manage your budget more effectively. Here’s what you need to know.

How Much Electricity Does a Fan Use Compared to Air Conditioning?

One of the most important reasons to consider using fans is the reduced cost of operation. When compared with the typical window AC unit or whole-home central air conditioning system, fans simply use less electricity. This reduces the cost of operation by a considerable degree. Whole-house fans and ceiling fans are among the most energy-efficient methods for cooling your home. They use between one-fourth to one-hundredth of the electrical power required for AC units.

Is It Cheaper to Run a Whole-House Fan or AC?

How much electricity does a fan use? The National Renewable Energy Laboratory offers the following figures as a basis for comparing costs and energy expenditures:

• A two-ton air conditioner costs about 20 cents per hour to operate. Over the entire cooling season, homeowners can expect to pay more than $250 to keep things cool in warmer climates.
• An 18,000- BTU window AC unit with an energy efficiency ratio of 8.8 generally costs more than 17 cents per hour to operate.
• The cost of operating a whole-house fan is significantly less. In most areas, homeowners can expect to pay 1 to 5 cents for every hour their whole-house fan is in use.
• Ceiling fans are recommended by the U.S. Department of Energy as an energy-efficient way to reduce indoor temperatures. Depending on the size and power of the ceiling fan, the cost of operation could be less than 1 cent per hour. A ceiling fan is a low-cost way to increase indoor comfort during the hotter summer months.

How Do Fans Cool Your Home?

Ceiling fans, whole-house fans and portable fans all work on the principle of evaporative cooling. In simple terms, this means that they increase the amount of evaporation of moisture from your skin. Evaporation is a cooling process that removes heat from your skin’s surface and dissipates it into the surrounding air. In this way, your fan can help you to feel cooler — but it doesn’t actually lower the temperature of your indoor air.

Ceiling fans are especially useful in providing targeted cooling for the occupants of the room in which these devices are installed. To get the most from your ceiling fan, however, you must change the direction it spins based on the season. Ceiling fans should turn in a counterclockwise direction during the summer. This will allow the fan to direct air downward at you to cool you off more effectively. During the winter months, however, it is essential to change your ceiling fans to a clockwise spin. This draws cooler air upward to help you feel warmer during winter’s chill.

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Is It Better to Use a Fan or Air Conditioner?

Both fans and AC units offer some significant advantages and drawbacks for cooling your home. Some of the most important advantages of fans include the following:

• Lower energy expenditures
• Reduced impact on the environment
• Easier installation processes
• Lower initial equipment costs
• Reduced need for maintenance

However, air conditioners cool much more effectively than fans and may be the only way to keep cool on during the hottest days of summer.

When deciding between a fan or an AC for your home, it is important to think about the average high temperatures in your area during the hottest part of summer. When the outdoor temperature gets too high — over 95 degrees — even a whole-house fan can do little to lower your body’s base temperature. High humidity levels can also reduce the effectiveness of fans in cooling you down. A good compromise could be to use fans on all but the hottest days. By running your window AC unit or central air only when it is absolutely necessary, you can cut your utility costs while reducing your impact on the environment.

A dirty air conditioner doesn’t just impact cooling performance; it can also drive up your energy bills, degrade indoor air quality and even lead to costly breakdowns. Over time, dust, pet hair and airborne debris clog filters, coat coils and restrict airflow — all of which force your AC to work overtime just to maintain a comfortable temperature.

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Regular maintenance helps extend the lifespan of your unit, prevents expensive repairs and ensures your home stays cool all season long. Read on to learn how to clean both window and central air conditioners, covering filters, coils, fins and the drainage system in five simple steps.

How Often to Clean Your Air Conditioner

Your AC system is composed of several components that each have specific maintenance and cleaning requirements. These include the following:

• Filters.Traps dust and debris to improve air quality. A clogged filter restricts airflow and strains the system. Clean or replace your filters every one to two months during peak cooling seasons. If you notice reduced airflow, excessive dust buildup or worsening allergy symptoms, the filter is likely clogged and should be cleaned or replaced immediately.
• Coils and fins.The evaporator coil (inside your home) absorbs heat, while the condenser coil (outdoors) releases it. Dirt buildup on these coils reduces efficiency. Fins are thin aluminum pieces that surround the coils to aid in heat dissipation. Bent or clogged fins block airflow. Inspect coils and fins at least once a year, but clean them as soon as you notice reduced cooling efficiency, longer run times,or increased energy bills. If the coils appear covered in dust, grime or a greasy film, or if the fins look bent or clogged with debris, those are also indications that it’s time for a thorough cleaning.
• Drainage system.Condensation forms as the AC cools the air, and this moisture needs to drain properly. A blocked drain can cause leaks, mold growth or water damage. Check the drain line every few months to ensure proper water flow. If you see water pooling around your AC, detect musty odors or notice mold growth near the unit, the drain line may be clogged and needs to be cleared.

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How to Deep-Clean Your Air Conditioner

Now that you know what needs to be cleaned and how often, here’s how to clean each component:

Things You’ll Need

• Screwdriver
• Soft brush
• Vacuum with brush attachment
• Fin comb (if necessary)
• Mild detergent or coil cleaner
• Spray bottle
• Garden hose
• Pipe cleaner or thin wire
• Vinegar or warm water
• Wet/dry vacuum
• Protective gloves (optional, but recommended)

Step 1: Turn Off the Power

Unplug the unit if you’re cleaning a window AC, or switch off the power at the breaker box for central air systems. If working on an outdoor condenser unit, set the thermostat to “off” to prevent accidental activation while you clean. Electricity and water don’t mix, so taking this precaution eliminates the risk of shocks and ensures a safe cleaning process.

Step 2: Clean or Replace the Air Filter

To access the filter, open the front panel of your air conditioner, using a screwdriver to remove any screws if necessary. Once removed, check whether it’s reusable or disposable. You can determine if your air filter is reusable or disposable by checking its material and frame.

Reusable filters are typically made of sturdy metal or plastic frames with a washable mesh or fabric, while disposable filters have cardboard frames and pleated paper or fiberglass media that cannot be cleaned and must be replaced when dirty. If unsure, check the manufacturer’s label on the filter or your AC unit’s manual.

If it’s reusable, rinse the filter under running water to remove dust and debris. For a deeper clean, soak it in warm water mixed with mild detergent, then gently scrub with a soft brush. Let the filter air dry completely before reinserting it to prevent mold and mildew growth. If it’s a disposable filter, replace it with a new one of the same size and rating.

Step 3: Clean the Coils and Fins

To access the coils and fins, remove the front panel of a window unit or the side panels and top grille of an outdoor condenser using a screwdriver. Be careful when handling the thin aluminum fins, as they bend easily. Once exposed, use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment to remove loose debris from the coils.

Next, spray the coils with a mild detergent solution or a specialized coil cleaner, letting it sit for 10 to 15 minutes to break down grime. If the coils appear heavily soiled or covered in greasy buildup, a second application may be needed. Once the cleaner has had time to work, gently rinse the coils with a garden hose, making sure to direct the water from the inside out to push dirt away.

Avoid using a pressure washer, as high-pressure water can bend or damage the delicate fins. If airflow seems weak or uneven, inspect the fins. Bent fins can obstruct airflow and should be carefully straightened with a fin comb to restore proper heat exchange and efficiency.

Step 4: Clear the Drainage System

Locate the drain hole at the back of a window AC or near the indoor air handler of a central system. If you see standing water around the unit, the drain line may be blocked. Use a small wire or pipe cleaner to remove any debris from the opening, then flush the drain with a mixture of warm water and vinegar to break down mold and algae buildup. If the drain remains clogged, a wet/dry vacuum can be used to suction out any remaining obstructions.

Step 5: Wipe Down the Exterior and Reassemble the Unit

To finish up, use a damp cloth to wipe down the exterior casing of the air conditioner, removing any accumulated dust and grime. If you’re cleaning a window unit, check the vents for blockages and remove any dirt buildup that could restrict airflow. Once all components are clean and fully dry, reinsert the filter, reattach the front panel and restore power to the unit. Turn the AC back on and check for any unusual noises or leaks.

How to Maintain Your Air Conditioner

Keeping your air conditioner in top shape doesn’t end with cleaning. For outdoor condenser units, keep the area around the unit clear of leaves, dirt and overgrown vegetation to maintain proper airflow.

Also, scheduling a professional inspection once a year ensures that refrigerant levels, electrical connections and deeper system components are in optimal condition. Finally, stay alert for any unusual noises, weak airflow or musty odors, as these could signal underlying problems that need attention before they turn into costly repairs.

Buying a new home is a big step, and with that comes a host of new responsibilities. In addition to figuring out how to furnish and care for your home, you’ll also need to consider how to maintain your yard. A healthy lawn adds curb appeal and makes your outdoor spaces more enjoyable.

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The good news is that lawn care doesn’t have to be a daunting task. In fact, with a little know-how and some willingness to work a bit, basic lawn maintenance for a new home is a task that most homeowners can handle on their own. Read on to learn more about the tenets of basic lawn maintenance, so you move into your home with some new lawn care knowledge — even if you don’t have a mower yet!

Basic Lawn Maintenance Tasks Everyone Should Perform

All yards are different, but when it comes to lawn maintenance, the most important order of business is typically grass care. Grass maintenance is one of those areas that can start to feel overwhelming pretty quickly if you’re a lawn newbie and start hearing terms like “lawn fertilizer,” “soil pH” and “grass types.”

Yes, grass is something you can certainly geek out on — if you’re into that kind of thing. But if you’re like the rest of us and are just trying to keep your grass cut and yard looking decent, please know that you don’t have to know all the lawn things to be a good grass steward.

Here’s a crash course:

Mowing

If you have grass in your new yard, mowing is going to be your top priority when it comes to lawn-care maintenance. The main considerations when it comes to mowing are mowing heights and mowing frequency.

Although it can be tempting to mow your grass as low as possible to give you a longer stretch between mowings, cutting your grass too low can stress it out, especially in the summer. Aim for a grass height of around three inches, maybe even four, in the peak of summer. The exception to this rule would be in the spring (when you can go a little shorter to trim dead grass blades off warm season grasses) and for the last mow of the fall (when a lower cut can help keep snow mold at bay).

As far as mowing frequency goes, late spring and summer will likely require weekly mowing, although every five to six days is often ideal in mid-summer. Depending on temperatures where you live, you can typically start to spread out your mowing to every week and a half starting around September or October when grasses grow slower, until giving your lawn one final cut before winter sets in.

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Watering

Watering your lawn is an often overlooked, but important part of overall lawn care if you want your grass looking its best. Rather than light daily watering, deeper, more saturating watering sessions are the way to go for healthy, happy grass. The average lawn needs 1 to 1.5 inches of water a week, so aim to water your lawn once or twice a week, preferably in the early morning or evening, when temperatures are cooler so as to prevent excess evaporation. You also want to make sure not to overwater your grass, which can lead to root rot and fungus growth. To avoid this, make sure your lawn can fully absorb each watering cycle, without leaving any standing water. You can also pull back to shorter or less frequent waterings if you think you may be overwatering.

Seeding and Weeding

If you are mowing and watering your lawn regularly, well done. Those two tasks will go a long way in terms of yard health. If you want to take lawn care to the next level, you can now turn to weeding and seeding your lawn. Adding grass seed to bare patches in your lawn can give your yard a more cohesive and cared-for look. The best time to add grass seed to your yard is usually early fall, but check on the particulars for your climate and seed type to be sure. Also, check the weed seed percentages on the back of your grass seed bag and try to shoot for the lowest percent possible to ensure you’re adding the right kind of new plant life to your yard.

Weeding is hardly the most glamorous part of lawn care, but it does help ensure your grass can grow unencumbered, without having to compete for resources with other plants. Depending on personal preference and the severity of weeds, you may want to tackle your weeds by hand, or you may want to use a weed killer, or herbicide. The downside to herbicides is that many of them contain chemicals that can pollute soil and waterways, which can harm animal life. If you want to avoid herbicides, know that there are hand-weeding tools out there to help make the job easier, along with weeding tool sets for larger weed issues.

Healthy Lawn, Happy Homeowner

Although maintaining your lawn is just one piece of the homeownership puzzle, it’s one that shouldn’t be overlooked. Keeping your lawn healthy helps to showcase your home and makes your yard more inviting, so you can enjoy life to the fullest in your new home, both inside and out.

Most dishwashers make some noise during operation, but unusual dishwasher noises could be a cause for concern.

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Fortunately, you can often fix a noisy dishwasher yourself with the right knowledge.

Reasons Your Dishwasher Is Making Noise

Dishwashers usually make hissing or sloshing sounds as the water pumps through the inlet and jets. A gentle humming sound from the motor is also nothing to worry about.

However, new or unusual sounds like thumping or grinding warrant investigation. The type of dishwasher noise you hear can help you figure out what the issue is.

Buzzing

A low buzzing sound from your dishwasher can be normal as the water goes down the drain. On the other hand, a new or very loud buzzing sound could be a sign that something’s wrong with the wash pump or drain pump.

A broken or faulty wash pump can reduce water flow through your dishwasher, and you may notice that your dishes aren’t properly clean. Drain pump problems often prevent water from draining, so you might see pooled water at the bottom of the machine.

Grinding

A dishwasher making a grinding noise can be a sign that there’s something stuck in the chopper blade. The chopper blade cuts up solid debris from your crockery before it reaches the drain to prevent clogged pipes. A chopper blade can usually handle soft debris, but harder items like popcorn kernels can get stuck in the mechanism.

Faulty pumps sometimes make a grinding sound when the bearings start going bad. This sound usually gets worse the longer you leave it.

Squealing

A squealing or droning sound is often due to worn-out bearings inside the wash pump or drain pump. The bearings support the pump’s rotor and allow it to turn correctly. Rusty or damaged bearings stop the rotor from rotating properly, which can be noisy.

Thumping

Thumping noises from your dishwasher can be annoying, but they’re not usually anything to worry about. Water flowing through the drain hose can make it vibrate, potentially causing it to knock against nearby surfaces.

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What Does It Sound Like if Something’s Wrong With the Circulator Pump?

Broken or faulty circulator pumps usually make a loud squealing or grinding sound. This sound is usually due to worn or rusty bearings. You can’t replace the bearings individually, so you’ll need to replace the entire circulator pump assembly to solve the problem.

What Does It Sound Like If There’s a Problem With the Drain Pump?

Malfunctioning drain pumps often make a loud buzzing sound, usually when the bearings start to wear out. This noise often progresses to a squealing noise as the problem worsens. The only fix for this problem is to replace the drain pump.

How Do I Stop My Dishwasher From Making Noise?

There are several things you can try to stop a dishwasher from making noise before you call a professional.

Move the Dishwasher

First, try moving the dishwasher away from the surrounding wall or cabinets in case the sounds are due to vibrations. In some cases, this can stop annoying buzzing or thumping sounds. You could also try fixing the dishwasher wall or cabinets to prevent it from vibrating so loudly, or pad it with acoustic pads and blankets.

Clean the Chopper Blade

Try removing any debris stuck in the chopper blade if you hear a grinding sound. You can access the blade by taking the lower spray arm off. Inspect the blades and replace them if they’re damaged. You can stop the problem from recurring by rinsing your plates and bowls thoroughly before putting them in the dishwasher and avoiding putting solid food items in the dishwasher.

Replace the Pump

You may need to replace the pump and motor assemblies if you hear a buzzing or squealing sound. Substandard cleaning suggests that you need to replace the wash pump, while pooled water indicates a faulty drain pump. The dishwasher often won’t work at all if you have a defective circulation pump.

Call a Pro

Consider calling a professional technician to diagnose and fix the fault if none of the above tips work. A technician can also advise you about how to prevent the causes of dishwasher noise in the future. It may be more cost-effective to replace your dishwasher if it’s very old or keeps breaking down.

Concerned about damp walls in your house? Moisture can accumulate in your home, leaving walls as sweaty as the winner of the Boston Marathon. Wall deodorant isn’t a thing, but we have solutions for moisture on walls.

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If you suspect your walls are sweating from condensation or humidity problems, we’ll explain why interior wall condensation occurs and how you can prevent sweating walls.

Is It Normal to Have Moisture on Your Walls?

If your walls are sweating, condensation is typically the culprit. Think about how an ice-cold glass of lemonade or tea sweats on a hot summer day. A similar process occurs when warm, humid air combines with the cool surface of your walls or ceiling.

The water in your air becomes wall condensation when it can’t evaporate. Cold air has less space to retain water than warm air, so moisture quickly turns into water droplets. This can cause wall condensation problems in your home.

Why Your Walls Are Sweating

Moisture on walls often stems from high indoor humidity. Insulation issues, ventilation problems and temperature spikes can all play a role. Here’s a quick description of why these factors could be causing sweaty walls in your home.

High Indoor Humidity

Taking hot baths and showers, running the dryer or preparing your favorite recipe can increase humidity in your home. Even breathing can increase humidity levels — but don’t worry, you don’t have to hold your breath. Ensure your home has adequate ventilation, and run a fan when you shower or cook.

Insulation Issues

Poorly insulated walls are humidity magnets, so replace or add drywall behind walls that frequently trap moisture. You should also seal gaps or holes around doors, windows and baseboards. Installing double- or triple-pane windows may also help fend off excess humidity.

Ventilation Problems

Poor ventilation makes it difficult for your home to release extra humidity. Keep air moving with ceiling or box fans, and open doors or windows on a cool day. Trickle vents and air bricks can also improve airflow.

Your heating and cooling system may also need attention. An HVAC tech can check for ventilation problems and offer personalized solutions.

Temperature Spikes

Drastic indoor temperature changes can cause condensation buildup or humidity on walls. Don’t blast the AC if you come home to a sweltering home, and don’t run the heat at full force if it’s freezing inside. Slowly cool or heat your home to prevent excess humidity.

Using a programmable thermostat can help prevent temperature spikes. Also, avoid placing furniture or large toys directly against walls, as these can trap moisture.

How to Fix Walls Sweating From Condensation

After identifying the cause of your home’s sweating walls, you can take steps to prevent humidity on the walls. Basically, you must decrease humidity, improve ventilation and address insulation problems. The treatment you choose for walls sweating from condensation depends on the culprit.

Here are some ways you can reduce moisture on walls:

• Install ceiling fans in each room, and take advantage of your stovetop and bathroom fans.
• Ask a professional if you could benefit from air bricks or trickle vents.
• Use a smart or programmable thermostat to keep temperatures consistent and cool or heat your home slowly.
• Address insulation issues, such as doorway gaps, broken windows, missing drywall or broken baseboards.
• Schedule regular maintenance appointments for your HVAC system and ductwork so you can identify leaks quickly.
• Ask an HVAC professional if your home needs a dehumidifier to keep moisture levels low.
• Many wall condensation problems are treatable with a few simple home upgrades or lifestyle changes.

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Prevention Tips for Interior Wall Condensation

Humidity can enter your home through gaps in doors, windows, baseboards, flooring and roofing. Poor ventilation also plays a strong role, so have a professional ensure your home’s ventilation system is in good condition. You may need new ductwork or vents if you have ventilation problems, especially if you have an older home. Make sure your home has adequate insulation, such as drywall or fiberglass behind the walls.

Keep an eye on indoor humidity levels. Otherwise, you may end up with moldy walls, flaking paint or peeling wallpaper. Excess moisture can also damage your home’s frame, resulting in costly damage. Seek professional assistance if your home has insulation, ventilation or humidity problems.