A dirty air conditioner doesn’t just impact cooling performance; it can also drive up your energy bills, degrade indoor air quality and even lead to costly breakdowns. Over time, dust, pet hair and airborne debris clog filters, coat coils and restrict airflow — all of which force your AC to work overtime just to maintain a comfortable temperature.

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Regular maintenance helps extend the lifespan of your unit, prevents expensive repairs and ensures your home stays cool all season long. Read on to learn how to clean both window and central air conditioners, covering filters, coils, fins and the drainage system in five simple steps.

How Often to Clean Your Air Conditioner

Your AC system is composed of several components that each have specific maintenance and cleaning requirements. These include the following:

• Filters.Traps dust and debris to improve air quality. A clogged filter restricts airflow and strains the system. Clean or replace your filters every one to two months during peak cooling seasons. If you notice reduced airflow, excessive dust buildup or worsening allergy symptoms, the filter is likely clogged and should be cleaned or replaced immediately.
• Coils and fins.The evaporator coil (inside your home) absorbs heat, while the condenser coil (outdoors) releases it. Dirt buildup on these coils reduces efficiency. Fins are thin aluminum pieces that surround the coils to aid in heat dissipation. Bent or clogged fins block airflow. Inspect coils and fins at least once a year, but clean them as soon as you notice reduced cooling efficiency, longer run times,or increased energy bills. If the coils appear covered in dust, grime or a greasy film, or if the fins look bent or clogged with debris, those are also indications that it’s time for a thorough cleaning.
• Drainage system.Condensation forms as the AC cools the air, and this moisture needs to drain properly. A blocked drain can cause leaks, mold growth or water damage. Check the drain line every few months to ensure proper water flow. If you see water pooling around your AC, detect musty odors or notice mold growth near the unit, the drain line may be clogged and needs to be cleared.

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How to Deep-Clean Your Air Conditioner

Now that you know what needs to be cleaned and how often, here’s how to clean each component:

Things You’ll Need

• Screwdriver
• Soft brush
• Vacuum with brush attachment
• Fin comb (if necessary)
• Mild detergent or coil cleaner
• Spray bottle
• Garden hose
• Pipe cleaner or thin wire
• Vinegar or warm water
• Wet/dry vacuum
• Protective gloves (optional, but recommended)

Step 1: Turn Off the Power

Unplug the unit if you’re cleaning a window AC, or switch off the power at the breaker box for central air systems. If working on an outdoor condenser unit, set the thermostat to “off” to prevent accidental activation while you clean. Electricity and water don’t mix, so taking this precaution eliminates the risk of shocks and ensures a safe cleaning process.

Step 2: Clean or Replace the Air Filter

To access the filter, open the front panel of your air conditioner, using a screwdriver to remove any screws if necessary. Once removed, check whether it’s reusable or disposable. You can determine if your air filter is reusable or disposable by checking its material and frame.

Reusable filters are typically made of sturdy metal or plastic frames with a washable mesh or fabric, while disposable filters have cardboard frames and pleated paper or fiberglass media that cannot be cleaned and must be replaced when dirty. If unsure, check the manufacturer’s label on the filter or your AC unit’s manual.

If it’s reusable, rinse the filter under running water to remove dust and debris. For a deeper clean, soak it in warm water mixed with mild detergent, then gently scrub with a soft brush. Let the filter air dry completely before reinserting it to prevent mold and mildew growth. If it’s a disposable filter, replace it with a new one of the same size and rating.

Step 3: Clean the Coils and Fins

To access the coils and fins, remove the front panel of a window unit or the side panels and top grille of an outdoor condenser using a screwdriver. Be careful when handling the thin aluminum fins, as they bend easily. Once exposed, use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment to remove loose debris from the coils.

Next, spray the coils with a mild detergent solution or a specialized coil cleaner, letting it sit for 10 to 15 minutes to break down grime. If the coils appear heavily soiled or covered in greasy buildup, a second application may be needed. Once the cleaner has had time to work, gently rinse the coils with a garden hose, making sure to direct the water from the inside out to push dirt away.

Avoid using a pressure washer, as high-pressure water can bend or damage the delicate fins. If airflow seems weak or uneven, inspect the fins. Bent fins can obstruct airflow and should be carefully straightened with a fin comb to restore proper heat exchange and efficiency.

Step 4: Clear the Drainage System

Locate the drain hole at the back of a window AC or near the indoor air handler of a central system. If you see standing water around the unit, the drain line may be blocked. Use a small wire or pipe cleaner to remove any debris from the opening, then flush the drain with a mixture of warm water and vinegar to break down mold and algae buildup. If the drain remains clogged, a wet/dry vacuum can be used to suction out any remaining obstructions.

Step 5: Wipe Down the Exterior and Reassemble the Unit

To finish up, use a damp cloth to wipe down the exterior casing of the air conditioner, removing any accumulated dust and grime. If you’re cleaning a window unit, check the vents for blockages and remove any dirt buildup that could restrict airflow. Once all components are clean and fully dry, reinsert the filter, reattach the front panel and restore power to the unit. Turn the AC back on and check for any unusual noises or leaks.

How to Maintain Your Air Conditioner

Keeping your air conditioner in top shape doesn’t end with cleaning. For outdoor condenser units, keep the area around the unit clear of leaves, dirt and overgrown vegetation to maintain proper airflow.

Also, scheduling a professional inspection once a year ensures that refrigerant levels, electrical connections and deeper system components are in optimal condition. Finally, stay alert for any unusual noises, weak airflow or musty odors, as these could signal underlying problems that need attention before they turn into costly repairs.

Buying a new home is a big step, and with that comes a host of new responsibilities. In addition to figuring out how to furnish and care for your home, you’ll also need to consider how to maintain your yard. A healthy lawn adds curb appeal and makes your outdoor spaces more enjoyable.

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The good news is that lawn care doesn’t have to be a daunting task. In fact, with a little know-how and some willingness to work a bit, basic lawn maintenance for a new home is a task that most homeowners can handle on their own. Read on to learn more about the tenets of basic lawn maintenance, so you move into your home with some new lawn care knowledge — even if you don’t have a mower yet!

Basic Lawn Maintenance Tasks Everyone Should Perform

All yards are different, but when it comes to lawn maintenance, the most important order of business is typically grass care. Grass maintenance is one of those areas that can start to feel overwhelming pretty quickly if you’re a lawn newbie and start hearing terms like “lawn fertilizer,” “soil pH” and “grass types.”

Yes, grass is something you can certainly geek out on — if you’re into that kind of thing. But if you’re like the rest of us and are just trying to keep your grass cut and yard looking decent, please know that you don’t have to know all the lawn things to be a good grass steward.

Here’s a crash course:

Mowing

If you have grass in your new yard, mowing is going to be your top priority when it comes to lawn-care maintenance. The main considerations when it comes to mowing are mowing heights and mowing frequency.

Although it can be tempting to mow your grass as low as possible to give you a longer stretch between mowings, cutting your grass too low can stress it out, especially in the summer. Aim for a grass height of around three inches, maybe even four, in the peak of summer. The exception to this rule would be in the spring (when you can go a little shorter to trim dead grass blades off warm season grasses) and for the last mow of the fall (when a lower cut can help keep snow mold at bay).

As far as mowing frequency goes, late spring and summer will likely require weekly mowing, although every five to six days is often ideal in mid-summer. Depending on temperatures where you live, you can typically start to spread out your mowing to every week and a half starting around September or October when grasses grow slower, until giving your lawn one final cut before winter sets in.

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Watering

Watering your lawn is an often overlooked, but important part of overall lawn care if you want your grass looking its best. Rather than light daily watering, deeper, more saturating watering sessions are the way to go for healthy, happy grass. The average lawn needs 1 to 1.5 inches of water a week, so aim to water your lawn once or twice a week, preferably in the early morning or evening, when temperatures are cooler so as to prevent excess evaporation. You also want to make sure not to overwater your grass, which can lead to root rot and fungus growth. To avoid this, make sure your lawn can fully absorb each watering cycle, without leaving any standing water. You can also pull back to shorter or less frequent waterings if you think you may be overwatering.

Seeding and Weeding

If you are mowing and watering your lawn regularly, well done. Those two tasks will go a long way in terms of yard health. If you want to take lawn care to the next level, you can now turn to weeding and seeding your lawn. Adding grass seed to bare patches in your lawn can give your yard a more cohesive and cared-for look. The best time to add grass seed to your yard is usually early fall, but check on the particulars for your climate and seed type to be sure. Also, check the weed seed percentages on the back of your grass seed bag and try to shoot for the lowest percent possible to ensure you’re adding the right kind of new plant life to your yard.

Weeding is hardly the most glamorous part of lawn care, but it does help ensure your grass can grow unencumbered, without having to compete for resources with other plants. Depending on personal preference and the severity of weeds, you may want to tackle your weeds by hand, or you may want to use a weed killer, or herbicide. The downside to herbicides is that many of them contain chemicals that can pollute soil and waterways, which can harm animal life. If you want to avoid herbicides, know that there are hand-weeding tools out there to help make the job easier, along with weeding tool sets for larger weed issues.

Healthy Lawn, Happy Homeowner

Although maintaining your lawn is just one piece of the homeownership puzzle, it’s one that shouldn’t be overlooked. Keeping your lawn healthy helps to showcase your home and makes your yard more inviting, so you can enjoy life to the fullest in your new home, both inside and out.

Most dishwashers make some noise during operation, but unusual dishwasher noises could be a cause for concern.

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Fortunately, you can often fix a noisy dishwasher yourself with the right knowledge.

Reasons Your Dishwasher Is Making Noise

Dishwashers usually make hissing or sloshing sounds as the water pumps through the inlet and jets. A gentle humming sound from the motor is also nothing to worry about.

However, new or unusual sounds like thumping or grinding warrant investigation. The type of dishwasher noise you hear can help you figure out what the issue is.

Buzzing

A low buzzing sound from your dishwasher can be normal as the water goes down the drain. On the other hand, a new or very loud buzzing sound could be a sign that something’s wrong with the wash pump or drain pump.

A broken or faulty wash pump can reduce water flow through your dishwasher, and you may notice that your dishes aren’t properly clean. Drain pump problems often prevent water from draining, so you might see pooled water at the bottom of the machine.

Grinding

A dishwasher making a grinding noise can be a sign that there’s something stuck in the chopper blade. The chopper blade cuts up solid debris from your crockery before it reaches the drain to prevent clogged pipes. A chopper blade can usually handle soft debris, but harder items like popcorn kernels can get stuck in the mechanism.

Faulty pumps sometimes make a grinding sound when the bearings start going bad. This sound usually gets worse the longer you leave it.

Squealing

A squealing or droning sound is often due to worn-out bearings inside the wash pump or drain pump. The bearings support the pump’s rotor and allow it to turn correctly. Rusty or damaged bearings stop the rotor from rotating properly, which can be noisy.

Thumping

Thumping noises from your dishwasher can be annoying, but they’re not usually anything to worry about. Water flowing through the drain hose can make it vibrate, potentially causing it to knock against nearby surfaces.

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What Does It Sound Like if Something’s Wrong With the Circulator Pump?

Broken or faulty circulator pumps usually make a loud squealing or grinding sound. This sound is usually due to worn or rusty bearings. You can’t replace the bearings individually, so you’ll need to replace the entire circulator pump assembly to solve the problem.

What Does It Sound Like If There’s a Problem With the Drain Pump?

Malfunctioning drain pumps often make a loud buzzing sound, usually when the bearings start to wear out. This noise often progresses to a squealing noise as the problem worsens. The only fix for this problem is to replace the drain pump.

How Do I Stop My Dishwasher From Making Noise?

There are several things you can try to stop a dishwasher from making noise before you call a professional.

Move the Dishwasher

First, try moving the dishwasher away from the surrounding wall or cabinets in case the sounds are due to vibrations. In some cases, this can stop annoying buzzing or thumping sounds. You could also try fixing the dishwasher wall or cabinets to prevent it from vibrating so loudly, or pad it with acoustic pads and blankets.

Clean the Chopper Blade

Try removing any debris stuck in the chopper blade if you hear a grinding sound. You can access the blade by taking the lower spray arm off. Inspect the blades and replace them if they’re damaged. You can stop the problem from recurring by rinsing your plates and bowls thoroughly before putting them in the dishwasher and avoiding putting solid food items in the dishwasher.

Replace the Pump

You may need to replace the pump and motor assemblies if you hear a buzzing or squealing sound. Substandard cleaning suggests that you need to replace the wash pump, while pooled water indicates a faulty drain pump. The dishwasher often won’t work at all if you have a defective circulation pump.

Call a Pro

Consider calling a professional technician to diagnose and fix the fault if none of the above tips work. A technician can also advise you about how to prevent the causes of dishwasher noise in the future. It may be more cost-effective to replace your dishwasher if it’s very old or keeps breaking down.

Concerned about damp walls in your house? Moisture can accumulate in your home, leaving walls as sweaty as the winner of the Boston Marathon. Wall deodorant isn’t a thing, but we have solutions for moisture on walls.

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If you suspect your walls are sweating from condensation or humidity problems, we’ll explain why interior wall condensation occurs and how you can prevent sweating walls.

Is It Normal to Have Moisture on Your Walls?

If your walls are sweating, condensation is typically the culprit. Think about how an ice-cold glass of lemonade or tea sweats on a hot summer day. A similar process occurs when warm, humid air combines with the cool surface of your walls or ceiling.

The water in your air becomes wall condensation when it can’t evaporate. Cold air has less space to retain water than warm air, so moisture quickly turns into water droplets. This can cause wall condensation problems in your home.

Why Your Walls Are Sweating

Moisture on walls often stems from high indoor humidity. Insulation issues, ventilation problems and temperature spikes can all play a role. Here’s a quick description of why these factors could be causing sweaty walls in your home.

High Indoor Humidity

Taking hot baths and showers, running the dryer or preparing your favorite recipe can increase humidity in your home. Even breathing can increase humidity levels — but don’t worry, you don’t have to hold your breath. Ensure your home has adequate ventilation, and run a fan when you shower or cook.

Insulation Issues

Poorly insulated walls are humidity magnets, so replace or add drywall behind walls that frequently trap moisture. You should also seal gaps or holes around doors, windows and baseboards. Installing double- or triple-pane windows may also help fend off excess humidity.

Ventilation Problems

Poor ventilation makes it difficult for your home to release extra humidity. Keep air moving with ceiling or box fans, and open doors or windows on a cool day. Trickle vents and air bricks can also improve airflow.

Your heating and cooling system may also need attention. An HVAC tech can check for ventilation problems and offer personalized solutions.

Temperature Spikes

Drastic indoor temperature changes can cause condensation buildup or humidity on walls. Don’t blast the AC if you come home to a sweltering home, and don’t run the heat at full force if it’s freezing inside. Slowly cool or heat your home to prevent excess humidity.

Using a programmable thermostat can help prevent temperature spikes. Also, avoid placing furniture or large toys directly against walls, as these can trap moisture.

How to Fix Walls Sweating From Condensation

After identifying the cause of your home’s sweating walls, you can take steps to prevent humidity on the walls. Basically, you must decrease humidity, improve ventilation and address insulation problems. The treatment you choose for walls sweating from condensation depends on the culprit.

Here are some ways you can reduce moisture on walls:

• Install ceiling fans in each room, and take advantage of your stovetop and bathroom fans.
• Ask a professional if you could benefit from air bricks or trickle vents.
• Use a smart or programmable thermostat to keep temperatures consistent and cool or heat your home slowly.
• Address insulation issues, such as doorway gaps, broken windows, missing drywall or broken baseboards.
• Schedule regular maintenance appointments for your HVAC system and ductwork so you can identify leaks quickly.
• Ask an HVAC professional if your home needs a dehumidifier to keep moisture levels low.
• Many wall condensation problems are treatable with a few simple home upgrades or lifestyle changes.

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Prevention Tips for Interior Wall Condensation

Humidity can enter your home through gaps in doors, windows, baseboards, flooring and roofing. Poor ventilation also plays a strong role, so have a professional ensure your home’s ventilation system is in good condition. You may need new ductwork or vents if you have ventilation problems, especially if you have an older home. Make sure your home has adequate insulation, such as drywall or fiberglass behind the walls.

Keep an eye on indoor humidity levels. Otherwise, you may end up with moldy walls, flaking paint or peeling wallpaper. Excess moisture can also damage your home’s frame, resulting in costly damage. Seek professional assistance if your home has insulation, ventilation or humidity problems.

For a lot of people, the winter months can bring cold air both outside and in. Setting the thermostat can become a battle between those who want warmth and those who are looking to be energy efficient (or, let’s be honest, those who want to save some money).

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But there is a range of temperatures that can make everyone in the house happy.

Cold Climate Considerations

When winter sets in, and temperatures plummet, maintaining a comfortable indoor environment becomes essential. If you live in a cold climate, the recommended indoor temperature during winter is typically between 68 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. This range strikes a balance between comfort and energy efficiency.

Comfort and Health

Maintaining a temperature of 68 to 72 degrees ensures a comfortable living space without excessive heating costs. This range is generally comfortable for most people, allowing you to perform daily activities without feeling cold.

Energy Efficiency

Heating accounts for a significant portion of energy consumption in cold climates. By keeping your thermostat within the 68- to 72-degree range, you can manage heating costs more effectively. Every degree above this range can increase your heating bill by approximately 3%, which adds up over a long winter.

For those seeking further efficiency, consider setting the temperature slightly lower (around 65 degrees) at times while you’re sleeping or away from home, and using a programmable thermostat to automatically adjust the temperature based on your schedule.

Preventing Damage

Maintaining adequate indoor temperatures also prevents damage to your home. Extremely low indoor temperatures can cause pipes to freeze and burst, leading to costly repairs. By keeping the temperature at a safe level, you ensure that your plumbing and other infrastructure remain intact during the harsh winter months.

Warm or Temperate Climate Considerations

In warmer or more temperate climates, the approach to winter heating differs significantly. While heating is still necessary during the cooler months, the required indoor temperature is often lower than in colder climates. For these regions, an indoor temperature of 67 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit is generally recommended.

Energy Conservation

In temperate climates, winters are milder, and thus, the need for extensive heating is reduced. Keeping the indoor temperature at 67 to 70 degrees balances comfort with energy conservation. This range minimizes heating costs while still providing a cozy environment. Additionally, since the outdoor temperatures are not as extreme, the heat loss from your home is lower, making it easier to maintain this temperature range without excessive energy use.

Adapting to Milder Winters

Residents in warmer climates are often more accustomed to higher temperatures year-round. As a result, they might find a slightly cooler indoor temperature that is more comfortable compared to those in colder climates. A thermostat setting of 67 to 70 degrees can feel pleasantly warm for individuals used to milder winters, without the need for heavy winter clothing indoors.

Humidity Control

In warmer climates, maintaining indoor humidity levels is crucial during winter. Heating can cause indoor air to become dry, leading to discomfort and potential health issues such as dry skin and respiratory problems. Using a humidifier alongside your heating system can help maintain a balanced indoor environment, ensuring both temperature and humidity levels are optimal for comfort and health.

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Tips for Winter Heating

Regardless of your climate, there are several strategies you can employ to optimize your home’s heating efficiency during winter:

Insulation

Be sure your home is well-insulated to prevent heat loss. Proper insulation in walls, attics, and floors keeps warm air in and cold air out, reducing the need for excessive heating.

Weatherstripping

Seal any gaps around windows and doors with weatherstripping to prevent drafts. This simple step can dramatically improve your home’s ability to retain heat.

Curtains and Blinds

Use heavy curtains or thermal blinds to put an extra layer of insulation between you and the outside environment. Open them during sunny days to let natural warmth in, and close them at night to keep the heat inside.

Regular Maintenance

Keep your heating system well-maintained to allow it to operate efficiently. Regularly change filters and schedule annual inspections to keep your system running smoothly.

Find Your Home Temperature Sweet Spot

Before the winter months arrive, make sure your home is ready for that cold air outside. And by staying in the suggested temperature range, you can stay warm while also limiting the heating bill.

There I was, minding my own business, washing the dishes after dinner like I always do. Just moments into scrubbing and rinsing the frying pan, I noticed that the water wasn’t draining from the sink. I checked to see if anything was blocking the drain opening – nothing. I switched on the garbage disposal, but that was only a temporary fix. As I continued washing dishes, the drainage was only getting slower. With a clogged sink on my hands, my after-dinner cleanup was about to get more intense.

I’m sure I’m not the only one to experience the inconvenience of clogged drains. Clogged kitchen sinks are among the most common drainage issues to plague homeowners, largely because food debris and soap residue are nightmares for smooth draining. Thankfully, clogged drains are also one of the easiest home repairs to make on your own. However, before you roll up your sleeves and get into the do-it-yourself spirit, make sure you’re aware of the plumbing myths that could lead you astray.

When it comes to the kitchen sink, for instance, don’t think Drano and other chemical-based drain cleaners are the easy, go-to fix. The chemicals can sometimes cause more damage to your system, even if the clog seems fixed initially. Plus, backsplash from stubborn blockages could seriously harm your skin and eyes. You can avoid these catastrophes with other clog repair methods, some using common household items and others requiring some straightforward plunger or plumber’s snake action.

Don’t call the plumber yet! There’s a good chance you can fix the problem yourself with one of these six methods to unclog a kitchen sink:

How to Unclog a Stopped-Up Sink

1. Attack With Boiling Water

When hair, grease, soap residue and other debris get stuck in your drain, boiling water may be all your pipes needs to loosen the blockage. It’s the simplest fix, which means it should be your first move when trying to unclog a sink.Easy as 1-2-3, here are the steps to follow:

• Bring half a gallon of water to a boil on your stove or use a kettle to heat the water.
• Pour the boiling water directly into the drain opening.
• Turn on the faucet to see if the water drains in a steady fashion. If it’s still draining slowly or standing still in the sink, repeat the process.

Important note: Don’t try this method if your drain is attached to PVC pipes, as the boiling water could melt or damage the plastic.If the boiling water fails to dislodge the clog after the second try, it’s time to move on to another method. Unfortunately, you have yourself a sink clog that’s too stubborn for the simple boiling water approach.

2. Check the Garbage Disposal

If your sink has a garbage disposal, it could be the culprit of your drainage issues. If the clog is in the disposal, turning it on will usually break up the blockage. Overheated or dysfunctional disposals may not even turn on, but you can activate the reset switch at the side or bottom of the unit for an easy reboot. After resetting the disposal, try turning it on again to clear the clog. If you turn on the disposal and hear a low humming sound, the unit could be jammed or broken. Before doing anything to fix your disposal, remember to disconnect the power to the unit and never — and we mean never — stick your hand in the disposal. From there, you can try to break up the clog in the disposal by turning the blades manually. You can do that by inserting an Allen wrench into the hole on the bottom of the disposal, and twisting until you feel less resistance, meaning the blockage is beginning to break up. If that doesn’t work, follow these tips to unclog your garbage disposal. Once unclogged, turn the power back on and test the disposal. If all looks and sounds good, turn the faucet to see if the sink drainage is back to normal.Keep in mind that your garbage disposal inspection may not reveal any clogs or issues, in which case you can skip straight to a different unclogging method.

3. Try Using a Plunger

Once you establish that the disposal isn’t the problem, it’s time to bring out the plunger. But keep in mind: While you can use the toilet plunger if it’s all you have on hand, Dengarden suggested using a flat-bottomed one for the job. With your plunger at the ready, follow these steps:

• Fill the sink with hot water until it’s about halfway full and creates a seal around the drain.
• Position the plunger over the drain and begin pumping up and down quickly several times.
• Remove the plunger and wait to see if the water drains.
• Repeat the process until the water drains freely.

If the sink still isn’t draining properly after multiple plunging attempts, you know the drill. Time to try a different method.

4. Break It Down With Baking Soda and Vinegar

This approach is a natural alternative to using chemical drain cleaners on clogged drains. Much to your convenience, baking soda and vinegar are also common household items that you’re likely to already have in your kitchen, and the chemical reaction they cause can help get things flowing. Follow these steps to let the mixture work its magic:

• Remove standing water from the sink with a cup or bowl.
• Pour one cup of baking soda down the drain, using a spatula or spoon to push the powder down the drain if necessary.
• Pour one cup of white vinegar down the drain opening.
• Place a stopper or cover on the drain to seal the opening.
• Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes.
• Remove the cover and run hot tap water down the drain.
• Use boiling water to break up more intense clogs.

As with any unclogging method, this baking soda and vinegar alternative doesn’t have a 100% success rate. However, if it seems like you’re making progress on the clog after completing the steps, repeat the process with another chemical reaction to double down on the blockage.

5. Snake the Drain

The clogs that put up a fight will require the strength of a plumber’s snake to battle the blockage. The tool has a coiled spiral snake that reaches down into the drain. Once the snake hits an obstruction, you can crank the handle to dislodge the debris and pull it out of the drain. Electric snakes pack even more power to tackle clogged drains.If you don’t have a plumber’s snake, you can create a makeshift one with a wire coat hanger. Simply use a pair of needle-nose pliers to unwind the hanger into a long piece of wire. Keep the hooked end, as this is what you’ll use to grab onto the debris. If necessary, you can use the pliers to adjust the angle of the hook so that it can easily fit through the drain opening.No matter which tool you’re using, simply feed it down the drain a few feet at a time. Try not to push too roughly, as you might accidentally push the clog further down the pipe. When you feel the tip of your tool hit an obstruction, hook it on and pull the debris up through the drain. Keep doing this until you feel confident that the blockage is gone. Run hot water down the drain to see if you’re right.

6. Clean the P-Trap

If the water is still not draining correctly, there might be a blockage in the P-trap, aka the elbow-shaped pipe under your sink. Food, grease and other debris may be stuck in the pipe, causing your sink to drain slowly or not at all because the water hits a snag on its way down.The fix is disassembling the pipe to clean out the gunk that’s causing the blockage. Warning: This task can get a little messy, so you might want to prepare yourself with gloves, goggles and towels. When you’re ready, follow these steps to clean the P-trap:

• Place a bucket underneath the pipe. This will catch any backed up water or debris that may fall out when you open the P-trap.
• Unscrew the connectors on the trap that hold the curved piece to the vertical and horizontal drain pipe. There should be a slip nut on either end of the P-trap.
• Remove the P-trap and clean the pipe of all debris, grime and residue.
• Reconnect the trap.
• Turn on the faucet to run water down the drain.

If the drainage situation is still not up to par, the clog may be farther up the pipe. Back under the sink you go to find the source of the blockage. Here’s what to do when you get there:

• Repeat the steps to remove the P-trap.
• Remove the horizontal pipe that connects the system to the wall.
• Feed a plumber’s snake, auger or coat hanger into the wall pipe. When you feel an obstruction, use your tool to pull the blockage out from the pipe.
• Repeat the process until you remove all debris.
• Reassemble the pipes and P-trap, tightening the connectors by hand. (Pro tip from Home Depot:Do not over-tighten, as this may cause the connectors to crack.)
• Run hot water to flush the drain.

Before you celebrate your handiwork, check under the sink while the water’s running to make sure there isn’t any leaking from the pipes. If you do notice leaks, make sure all the connectors are tightened. Once you’re free from the drips, dry any water spillage from under the sink or on the floor and you’re good to go.If you’ve made it to this point and your sink still isn’t draining, there could be a larger issue at play. It’s time to give in and schedule an appointment with a plumber for a professional fix.

How to Prevent Future Clogs

Now that your kitchen sink is draining properly again, make sure you’re taking measures to prevent clogs from coming back. The most important preventative measure is refraining from disposing of harmful items down the drain. That includes:

• Grease, fats and oils
• Meat
• Coffee grounds
• Egg shells
• Starchy foods, such as pasta, rice or bread
• Fruit peels, pits and stickers
• Gum
• Paint
• Paper products, such as paper towels or food wrappers

Instead, pour cooking grease in an old can and dispose of the container once it’s full. You can add certain waste, including coffee grounds, to mulch or compost piles.The Home Depot also advised homeowners not to overload the garbage disposal. Try not to grind more than one cup of food waste at a time, and, of course, avoid sending any of the above items to the disposal. Another pro maintenance tip: Create an equal solution of vinegar and water, and freeze the mixture in an ice cube tray. About once a month, grind a few of the cubes down your disposal to scrape away food-waste buildup and keep the unit fresh. Here are more garbage disposal do’s and don’ts to keep your drains clean and clear.Another good habit for your pipes sake is running hot water down the drain after each sink use to keep everything clear. You might also want to use a drain cover to catch debris before they cause damage in the pipes.

Winterizing your sprinkler system is one of the most important steps to protect it from freezing temperatures. Without proper preparation, water left inside the pipes can freeze and expand, leading to cracked pipes, damaged valves and broken sprinkler heads.

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Come springtime, these issues could cost you hundreds — if not thousands — in repairs. To avoid these problems, proper winterization is key.

How to Winterize Your Lawn Irrigation System

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

Begin by turning off the main water supply to your sprinkler system. You’ll typically find the shut-off valve near your water meter. This step ensures no more water will enter the system, reducing the risk of freezing.

Step 2: Release Trapped Water from the Backflow Preventer

After shutting off the water, you’ll need to release any water trapped inside the backflow preventer. This device is designed to stop contaminated water from flowing back into your home’s clean water supply. Typically located near your main shut-off valve, the backflow preventer is usually outside or in a utility area. It often looks like a brass or plastic valve assembly with handles and test cocks. Open the test cocks and shut-off valves to allow any remaining water to escape. Leaving the valves at a 45-degree angle afterward will help prevent any trapped water from freezing.

Step 3: Turn Off the Timer or Controller

If your irrigation system operates on an automated timer or controller, it’s important to disable it for the winter. Some systems feature a “rain mode,” which allows you to stop the system from running while keeping your settings intact for the following season. If you forget this step, the system could try to water your lawn during freezing weather and potentially cause significant damage.

Step 4: Inspect the System for Damage

Before you drain the system, inspect your sprinkler heads, valves, and any other visible components. Look for cracked heads, leaks, or other signs of wear. Fix any damage before winterizing, as a broken head or valve could allow water to remain in the system and increase the risk of freezing and bursting pipes.

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Step 5: Drain or Blow Out the System

Once your irrigation system is shut down and inspected, you can drain it using one of three methods: manual draining, automatic draining, or the blow-out method. Each method works, but the right one depends on your system’s configuration.

Manual draining systems usually have drain valves located at the lowest points of your system, which you’ll need to open to release the water. If you notice valves along your pipes or near sprinkler heads, especially at low points, you likely have a manual drain system.

Automatic drain systems, on the other hand, release water automatically when the water pressure drops below a certain level, meaning you won’t see as many drain valves. To determine if you should use the manual method, check your system’s manual or inspect your pipes for these valves.

The blow-out method uses compressed air to remove water from the irrigation system. This is the most thorough approach and can be used on both automatic and manual drain sprinkler systems, but it requires extra caution and the right equipment.

Manual Drain

• Locate the Drain Valves. Find the valves at the lowest points in your system. These valves are specifically designed to release water from the pipes.
• Release the Water. Open each valve slowly to allow the pressurized water to escape. It’s a good idea to wear safety goggles during this step, as water can spray out with force.
• Close the Valves Once Drained. When water stops flowing from each valve, close them tightly to prevent air or water from re-entering. Make sure to check all zones to ensure that no water remains trapped in the pipes. Even a small amount of water left in the pipes can freeze, so be thorough.

Automatic Drain

• Turn Off the Main Water Valve. Once the water supply is shut off, run one of the sprinkler heads to relieve pressure. The automatic drain valves will open to let out the water.
• Manually Check for Trapped Water. While the automatic valves will drain the majority of water, there may still be some left in areas like solenoids (small electric components that control water flow in the system’s valves). Loosen and check these areas to ensure all the water is removed.

Blow-Out Method

• Safety First. This method can be hazardous if not done properly. Always wear protective eye gear and hearing protection, as compressed air can force water out of the sprinkler heads at high speeds, potentially causing injury. Keep children and pets away from the area.
• Use the Correct Air Compressor. To use this method, you’ll need an air compressor that delivers at least 10 cubic feet per minute (CFM) of airflow. Be sure to adjust the pressure to suit your pipes – 50 psi for polyethylene pipes and 80 psi for PVC pipes. Using too much pressure can result in bursting pipes or damaged sprinkler heads.
• Blow Out the System. Start by attaching the air compressor to the system using the appropriate adapter. Begin with the sprinkler head farthest from the compressor and open the zone one by one. Gradually increase the air pressure to push the water out of the pipes. Make sure to wear protective goggles and stand clear of the sprinkler heads during this process.
• Double-Check All Zones. Move through each zone methodically, ensuring all water has been expelled. Any leftover water can freeze and expand, causing damage over the winter. Once the blow-out process is finished, go back and check each zone again for residual water.

Step 6: Clear Remaining Water and Insulate Exposed Parts

Once the draining or blow-out process is complete, it’s crucial to ensure no water remains in the pipes, valves, or sprinkler heads. Even a small amount of trapped water can freeze, expand, and cause cracks or leaks. After ensuring your system is free of water, consider insulating exposed parts such as backflow preventers, outdoor valves, and pipes.

Foam covers, insulation tape, or even straw can help protect these components from freezing temperatures. Be careful not to block any air vents or drainage outlets, as this can interfere with the system’s function.

A frozen septic tank can cause wastewater and sewage to back up into sinks, toilets and showers. If you’re experiencing these issues in the middle of winter, your septic tank could be frozen.

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Yes, sadly enough, your septic tank can freeze unless you’re proactive about preparing the pipes, tank and soil for freezing winter temperatures.

Can a Septic System Freeze?

Unless the system is buried deep enough in the ground, you can have a frozen septic system. Also, if you’re not home, it’s possible for the standing water in the drains, outlets and lines to freeze. Once that happens, your system may become blocked and frozen solid.

Can a Drain Field Freeze?

Once the bacteria in the septic tank have done their work, the wastewater runs into a drain field. This field plays a key role in further treating the effluent before it sinks into the soil and ultimately enters groundwater. For several reasons, the drain field may be close to the surface of the ground, and unless adequately insulated, it may freeze.

Conditions That May Cause Your Septic Tank or Drain Field to Freeze

Suppose you don’t take specific precautions during the installation of the septic tank, such as ensuring the tank is properly buried and exposed lines are insulated. In that case, it’s possible to get a frozen septic tank. Conditions that can lead to a septic tank freezing include:

• Shallow and uninsulated drain pipes.If the pipes from the house to the septic tank are uninsulated, exposed or just below the ground, they may freeze, preventing waste from entering the tank.
• Snow compaction over the tank and drain field.Soft, fluffy snow insulates, while compacted snow becomes ice. This allows the ground around the tank and drain field to freeze, ultimately causing a frozen septic tank and drain field.
• Limited use.Running water doesn’t freeze as easily as standing water. If you’re frequently away, the water in the pipes leading to the septic tank can freeze.
• A deep freeze.Unexpectedly cold weather, such as a polar vortex, can reduce temperatures to below the design parameters of the septic system, leading to freezing.

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Practical Tips to Prevent Septic Tank Freezing

With changing weather patterns, it’s vital to be proactive in maintaining the septic system correctly to prevent freezing. You can do most of this yourself, but you’ll need specialist help for some tasks. Here are six steps to keep your septic system healthy during winter.

• Pump out solids in spring.According to the EPA, you should get a septic service provider to remove solids from the septic tank every three to five years. Always do this in spring so the bacteria in the septic tank can reestablish before colder weather comes.
• Maintain healthy bacteria.Don’t dispose of chemicals, solids or cooking oil into the septic tank. These harm bacteria and clog up the tank. Never use antifreeze, as this is also harmful.
• Insulate exposed and shallow pipes and vents.Insulate all exposed septic lines, drains and vents. If the drain lines or tank are shallow or above ground, use heat tape and tank heaters to keep the temperature above freezing.
• Cover the tank and drain field with a layer of mulch.In autumn, cover the tank and drain field with leaves, hay or other loose organic material. This helps insulate and protect the tank and drain field from freezing.
• Maintain a regular flow of water into the septic tank.Help the bacteria thrive and prevent freezing with a regular flow of warm water into the septic tank. If possible, use hot water in your washing machine and dishwasher, but even a regular flow of cold water is beneficial.
• Don’t compact or clear snow above the septic tank and drain field.Remember, fluffy snow has great insulation qualities and prevents the ground from freezing, so avoid clearing snow or compacting it above the drain field and septic tank.

You’re feeling a little parched and go to pour yourself a nice, crystal-clear cup of … dirty, red water?! Rusty water isn’t just yucky to look at. It can also affect your skin, your plumbing fixtures and your clothes.

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Luckily, there are several ways you can deal with the problem yourself, and professionals are standing by just in case you need expert assistance.

Signs There’s Rust in Your Water or Pipes

The biggest sign that you have rusty water is having reddish water coming out of your faucets. Rusty water can also be a fainter yellow color — the more rust there is, the darker the color will be.

Rusty pipes may also cause:

• Water with a strange odor similar to rotten eggs
• Water with a strong metallic and/or salty taste
• Water that’s cloudy or has visible rust particles/chunks
• Low water pressure as rust builds up, clogs pipes and connections and restricts water flow

Is Rusty Water Harmful?

Drinking rusty water is gross — that telltale smell and taste is highly unpleasant. But it can also cause other issues. Rust in water lines can lead to:

• Staining where the water hits the bottom of a sink, shower or tub and pools
• Staining of clothes and plumbing fixtures
• Skin issues, such as excessive dryness, rashes or contact dermatitis
• Change in hair sheen and texture
• Off-tasting food, if you cook or wash produce with rusty water

A small amount of rusty water isn’t typically a major health concern. But there’s some evidence that rusty water can facilitate the growth of Legionella, the bacteria responsible for a serious respiratory illness called Legionnaire’s disease. Rusty water can also be dangerous if someone ingests enough heavily tainted water to accumulate a buildup of heavy metals inside their body.

Can You Fix Rusty Water on Your Own?

It’s possible to tackle the cause of rusty water on your own. There are a few easy ways to clear up your water and cleanse rusty pipes, depending on the severity and root cause of the issue:

Use a Specialized Water Softener

An ion exchange water softener relies on a special chemical process that swaps out hard minerals in your water for “softer” ions. This typically involves a resin bead-filled filter. Those beads are loaded with potassium and sodium that react to minerals like iron and trap them, leaving cleaner water to keep flowing through.

Install a Filter

There are also filters that can be attached to your main water supply to remove rust particles before the water hits your taps. These filters come in different pore sizes, so get professional advice — and you may also need pro installation — as to which size will give you the best results.

Flush or Replace Your Water Heater

If a rusty water heater is affecting your water quality, you can try draining it and flushing out any debris at the bottom of the tank. In fact, experts recommend flushing out your water heater at least once per year, which can keep rust from building up in the first place. If the unit is still rusty after you clean it out, it may be time to swap the old water heater for a new one.

Flush Out Your Pipes

Sometimes, turning on water lines after the system has been dormant for a while can kick up some sediment. The same goes for water lines activated after you’ve attached a new water supply. In both cases, simply running your taps wide open for a few minutes can get rid of the rust and give you beautifully clear water.

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How Does a Professional Fix Rusty Water?

If your rusty water problem is severe and you can’t fix it using the DIY methods above, it may be time to call in a professional who can use techniques that require licensing and pro-level equipment. An experienced plumber can:

• Install the new ion exchange water softener suggested earlier
• Upgrade your home to a whole-house water filtration system that has multiple spots where traps filter water and remove impurities
• Introduce an air-injection system that uses pockets of air to filter out dissolved iron
• Replace old or broken steel and cast-iron plumbing that’s more susceptible to corrosion
• Investigate to see if the rust is coming from the main water line (which may be your responsibility or the responsibility of the water company or local government, depending on where you live and what part of the main is affected)

There can be a certain level of frustration and a definite ick factor involved when your taps shoot out rusty water. But with so many quick fixes in play and expert assistance around the corner, you can get back into the flow ASAP.

If you work hard on your home’s landscaping, installing some kind of home irrigation system might be the best way to ensure your toils don’t go to waste. An irrigation system can keep your lawn green, your flowers and shrubbery thriving, and can even increase the value of your home. What’s more, new smart irrigation systems can connect with weather forecasts and use sensing technology to keep water usage to a minimum. Still, these systems can cost as much as $7,000 for professional installation, so deciding to put one in should be carefully mulled over.

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Here are some things to consider as you’re thinkin’ ’bout sprinklin’:

Do You Need a Sprinkler System?

It might seem like an obvious answer, but understanding your need for a sprinkler system is an important part of this process. You’ll want to take into consideration what your actual watering needs are. Do you live in a place that gets plenty of rain? Do you have a large lawn that needs coverage, or are there only a few areas that need consistent moisture? Is your yard planted with local vegetation that can withstand the weather fluctuations in your area, or do you have specialized plantings that need extra attention?

A good way to determine how often your grass needs water is simply to step on it: If it springs back, then it’s fine but if not, it needs to be watered. By conducting this simple test over a few weeks, you’ll get a sense of just how much of a water deficit there may be in your yard.

While installing a sprinkler system might seem like an efficient way to keep your plantings and grass healthy, according to a study by the American Water Works Association ( as reported by the EPA), the most water-efficient way to keep your yard at the proper moisture level is to use a hose. The group says that manually watering with a hose will use 33% less water outdoors than average household usage, while in-ground sprinklers cause 35% more usage. Even more surprising is that sprinkler systems on timers actually use 47% more water than normal.

That being said, if you set up and use your sprinkler system with water usage in mind, you can cut down significantly on the amount you use of this particular natural resource. Plus, if you’ve spent a good amount of money on your landscape, the extra water costs might outweigh the risk of losing precious grass or plants.

One of the key steps you can take to have a sprinkler system function properly is to set it up with zones — a specific set of water outlets to a specific area of your yard. That lets you give low-water usage plants less moisture, while delivering greater amounts to grasses or other plantings that need it.

Are You a Drip…

There are basically two types of irrigation systems for your yard: drip and sprinkler. Drip systems consist of a long stretch of either flexible or rigid tubing that runs to a specific part of your yard. The tubing can be either above ground or buried 2 inches below ground. Water travels through the tube and slowly leaks out into the surrounding soil, which has the benefit of feeding the roots of your greenery directly.

According to the AWWA, drip irrigation systems use just 16% more water than standard households versus 35% for normal sprinkler systems — so they’re also more water efficient. Part of the reason is that sprinklers broadcast water over a large area, which means some of that moisture is lost to evaporation; drip systems avoid this problem. That being said, drip systems are really best for watering specific areas of your yard, such as flower beds, rather than an entire lawn, which can be better served by the greater range of a sprinkler system.

According to Lawn Love, you can expect to pay an average of $223 to $2,000 (CAD 306 to CAD 2,745) per watering zone for a drip irrigation system with the tubing above ground, and about $815 to $4,335 (CAD 1,118 to CAD 5,950) per acre for a system with buried tubes, which is helpful if you’ll be mowing the area where it’s installed.

…Or Are You More of a Sprinkle?

The second major type of home sprinkler system is one that uses a series of sprinkler heads sunk in the ground and spaced apart to provide broad irrigation coverage. These systems consist of a main water line and a series of branch lines that travel to the individual sprinkler heads.

The ultimate cost of a sprinkler system is determined by a number of factors, including how easy it is to dig the trenches in your yard, how many zones and heads you’ll need, whether you’ll do the job yourself, and whether local building codes require you to hire a plumber to connect the system to your home’s water supply.

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DIY or Pro

According to data from Lawn Love, a professionally installed sprinkler system for an average yard measuring 1,000 to 3,000 square meters will run between $500 and $1,500 (CAD 700 and CAD 2,100). Doing the job yourself, however, would save significant cash, ringing up at around $130 to $260 (CAD 180 to CAD 360). If your landscape watering needs are relatively simple, or you only need to sprinkle a portion of your yard, you may very well wish to go it alone.

One important consideration to take into account before you begin is to measure your home’s water pressure, which you can do by attaching a pressure gauge to your hose bib. Most sprinkler systems best operate around 30 psi (pounds per square inch of pressure) or more, so if your pressure is lower than that, you’ll need a system designed for a more minimal flow.

Keep in mind that a pro may be able to bring benefits to the job that you might not otherwise be able to take advantage of. Pros know their way around local permitting laws, will work with a plumber if needed to get your system installed legally, and will be aware of which parts of your yard to avoid due to water lines or other utilities. A good irrigation system installer will also help you plan the number of sprinkler heads and zones you’ll need for your particular area of the country and the types of plants you have. If you’re still in the planning stages of your landscaping project, pros can also provide input in terms of what to plant where to minimize water usage.

Smart Vs. Not

Beyond choosing either a drip or sprinkler system, and choosing the right sprinkler heads for your needs (which are inexpensive at around $45 (CAD 60) for a pack of four), you’ll also want to decide what kind of control system you’d like your system to run off of. Thumbtack says this can be as simple as a heavy-duty sprinkler timer that clicks your system on and off at the same time each day — which could cost as little as $50 (CAD 70) for a six-zone controller — to a modern “smart” system that connects to the internet and special in-ground sensors to adjust your watering schedule based on weather forecasts and soil saturation. A smart sprinkler controller should run in the range of $60 to $300 (CAD 80 to CAD 415), depending on the features you need.

The number of zones you set up will also factor into the final cost for your project. According to HomeGuide, every additional zone you add to a system will run about $300 to $700 (CAD 415 to CAD 960) in extra expense.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.