Nothing disrupts a nice warm shower like an unexpected temperature shift when someone flushes the toilet. If your shower gets hot after a toilet is flushed, it can be more than annoying; it may actually hurt you if the temperature fluctuation results in scalding hot water coming out of your showerhead. And it’s not just hot water you could get hit with in the shower. Cold water can sometimes surprise you, too, when a toilet flushes or if certain appliances are running.

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But how does flushing the toilet affect the shower? If this issue is occurring in your home, it probably involves your water pressure and the configuration of your pipes. Luckily, this annoyance is something that can be remedied without spending too much time or money.

Someone Flushed the Toilet — Why Does the Shower Get Hot?

So, why does flushing the toilet affect the shower? Without getting super technical, most homes use a plumbing system with pipes arranged in what’s called a trunk and branch system, which is just like it sounds: Bigger, main pipes are the “trunk” that then send water out to the smaller branches. The branches are what connect to the sinks, toilets, showers, dishwashers and other fixtures in your home. Temperature fluctuations like hot water in the shower when the toilet flushes occur when the water pressure is unstable and pulls water from one branch or appliance that’s being used to another.

While there are bigger plumbing projects you can tackle to address this issue, like widening the trunk or installing a more complex, well-balanced system, there are simpler ways to fix the problem. If you’re in the market for an easy and affordable fix, you can either install a thermostatic mixing valve to your shower or adjust the supply valve on your toilet.

A thermostatic mixing valve will keep a check on the water pressure of both the hot and cold water supply lines entering the shower before the cold water mixes with the hot. If the pressure of one drops, it will adjust the other accordingly to help keep the shower temperature consistent, in spite of any toilet flushing action occurring elsewhere in the house.

Another way to tackle this issue is to limit the water flow to your toilets. You can do this by closing the toilet supply valve a bit. Doing so will cause your toilet to fill more slowly, but it will help minimize the temperature fluctuations in other plumbing branches, like your shower.

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Why Might the Shower Get Cold When Someone Flushes the Toilet?

A blast of hot water is not the only sudden temperature shift you may experience in the shower. Flushing the toilet can make the shower cold too. This can also happen when you start running another tap or appliance, like a washing machine or dishwasher, that requires water and thus disrupts the water distribution and pressure of your shower. Luckily, you can deal with the issue in the same way that you’d address the hot water problem, so that your water temperature woes can be solved in one fell swoop.

Flush Freely

Water in the shower is meant to stay at a comfortable temperature of your choosing. Sure, cold showers are trending, but any cold or hot blasts to shock the system should be up to you, and not an unfortunate side effect of your home’s imbalanced plumbing. If you feel like updating your plumbing to a more sophisticated system that solves the problem, by all means, do so. But you can also try fixing the issue with much simpler, more affordable strategies that will help keep your water pressure balanced. By installing a thermostatic mixing valve to your shower and/or adjusting your toilet supply valve, you can easily take control of your shower temperature and steer clear of both hot and cold surprises while you bathe.

Hard water is water that’s high in dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium. It can cause a wide range of problems in your home, like affecting the taste of drinking and cooking water, staining toilet bowls and sinks and damaging appliances like washing machines and hot water tanks.

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If your home has excessively hard water, the best solution is to install a whole-home water softener. The most common type of residential water softener is an ion-exchange system, which uses negatively charged resin beads to attract the positively charged minerals before exchanging them with “softer,” positively charged sodium or potassium chloride. Then, the softer water is dispensed into your home’s water supply.

Installing a water softener requires considerable comfort with DIY projects and some plumbing knowledge that goes beyond the basics, so it’s not a suitable project for every homeowner. That said, installing a water softener yourself can lead to substantial savings over having it professionally installed.

If you feel up to the task, follow this basic installation guide.

Before You Begin

Before you commit to installing a water softener, verify that your water actually needs to be softened. While hard water has many deleterious consequences, soft water can prematurely corrode pipes and elevate the sodium levels of your home’s drinking water. Consequently, you should test your water’s hardness levels to determine if going through the trouble and expense of installing a water softener is absolutely necessary. You can contact your local water company to see if they have your water supply’s hardness level on file, or you can purchase an at-home hard water test kit. In either case, softening your water should only be necessary if your water hardness exceeds 7 grams per gallon.

Once you’ve determined that you actually need a water softener, figure out where you’re going to install the unit. It should be installed as close to where the main water supply enters your home as possible, which is often in a garage or basement. Additionally, it should be installed before the water line reaches your home’s hot water heater so that the tank and hot water lines don’t become contaminated with hard water.

Next, ensure that the area you’ll be installing the unit is large enough to accommodate both of the softener’s tanks. Most water softeners have a “mineral tank” that houses the resin beads and a “brine tank” that contains the salt or potassium chloride. These tanks need to be installed side-by-side. The installation location also needs to be near an electrical outlet to provide power to the unit and within reach of a drain such as a utility sink or floor drain.

Finally, if anyone in your household is on a low-sodium diet, use potassium chloride salt in the brine tank instead of sodium chloride, which is common table salt.

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How to Install a Water Softener

What You’ll Need

• Screwdriver
• Tape measure
• Flexible water supply line
• Adapter for flexible supply line
• Copper pipe and fittings
• PVC pipe and fittings
• Hacksaw, copper pipe cutter, or PVC cutter)
• Solder flux and blow torch

Step 1: Install a Bypass Valve

Most water softeners come with a bypass valve that lets you shut off the water supply to the unit when it needs to be serviced while still allowing water into your home. It consists of two valves: one where the main water supply line enters the unit, and the other where the softened water exits to be transported into your home. Press the valve into the corresponding port on the back of the control module (the box that houses the LCD display screen) and secure it in place with the provided clamps.

Step 2: Shut off the Water

Locate and close the shut-off valve to your home’s main water supply. Drain the water out of your home’s water lines by opening a sink faucet until water stops flowing.

Step 3: Tie Into the Water Supply Line

The two most common ways to connect a water softener to your home’s main water supply are by hard-piping it with rigid copper or PVC pipe, or by using flexible supply lines similar to those used on washing machines and hot water heaters. The type you use may depend on your local building codes, the type of pipe your home’s main water line uses or personal preference.

Sections of copper plumbing pipe and fittings can either be soldered together with solder flux and a blow torch, or connected with push-fit fittings like SharkBite connectors. When soldering copper, you should cut and preassemble the pipes and fittings before installing them onto the water softener, because the heat from the blow torch can damage the softener’s plastic components. Flexible supply lines are often the easiest to use since they don’t require any cutting or pre-assembly, but you may need to use a special adapter to connect the flexible line to your water supply line and/or the water softener’s bypass valve.

Use a copper pipe cutter (for copper pipe), PVC cutter (for PVC pipe) or hacksaw (for either) to make two cuts into the main water supply line. One cut should be to one side of the softener where the water line first enters your home, and the other cut should be to the other side of the softener where the line continues into your home.

Install the water softener’s water supply lines onto both sides of your home’s main water supply line using the appropriate fittings and adapter. The type of fittings and adapters you’ll need will depend on the type of pipe used for the main water and water softener lines. The pipe connected to the main water supply where it first enters your home should be installed on the inlet side of the water softener’s bypass valve. The pipe connected to where the main line continues into your home should be installed onto the outlet side of the softener.

Step 4: Fill and Connect the Tanks

Connect the mineral tank to the brine tank with the provided tubing and clamps. Fill the brine tank with the amount of water and sodium or potassium chloride salt that’s recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 5: Connect Drain Tubes

Most water softeners require a drain hose that transports the discharge water from the mineral tank during its backwash cycle, and an overflow drain connected to the brine tank to prevent the tank from overflowing onto the floor. Both drain tubes can go to the same drain, but they can’t be connected together. Connect the drain tubes to each tank and run them to the closest drain.

Step 6: Turn the Water and Start the Unit

Partially open the main water supply valve to your home until it’s in the 1/4 position, and allow trapped air in the line to escape. Once you can hear a steady stream of water running into the tank — without any hissing sounds that indicate air is still escaping — you can fully open the main water valve to begin filling the mineral tank.

Plug the unit into the nearest electrical outlet and turn on the control module. Follow the startup procedure on the screen, which will often involve setting the time and desired water hardness level.

Step 7: Run the Backwash Cycle

Run a backwash cycle to purge the remaining air from the system and loosen the resin beads in the mineral tank. While the backwash cycle is running, inspect all the plumbing lines and connections for leaks. Once the cycle is complete, check the brine tank and adjust the brine solution as necessary.

Plink. Plink. Plink. The sound of a dripping faucet — whether it’s in the kitchen or the bathroom — is enough to keep you awake all night. Aside from the constant dripping, there’s the worry that you’re wasting incredible amounts of water. And for good reason: According to the Environmental Protection Agency, a leaky faucet that drips one drop per second will waste more than 3,000 gallons of water per year!

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Needless to say, when you hear that dripping sound, you’ll want to act as soon as possible. Luckily, fixing a leaky faucet is a relatively simple task.

First Things First: Compression or Washerless?

The two basic types of faucets in homes are compression faucets and cartridge (washerless) faucets. These two faucets use different components to control the water, so the process of repairing them is slightly different.

A compression faucet uses a rubber washer that keeps the valve seat in place. Over time, water pressure forces the washer against the valve seat, creating constant friction that will eventually cause it to wear out.

On the other hand, a washerless faucet uses a cartridge or a ball instead of a rubber washer and a valve seat to control the faucet’s water flow. While they typically last longer than compression faucets, they can also crack or become worn-out through normal wear and tear.

Turn Off Your Water

No matter what type of faucet you have, you should begin each faucet repair project by shutting off the water at the supply valves under the sink. Turn both valves clockwise to shut the water off. After you’ve done this, make sure you open up the faucet to release any excess water and pressure still left in the line. You’ll also want to close the drain, just in case any small but essential pieces drop into the sink.

How to Fix a Washerless Faucet

Remove the Faucet Handle

Once the water has been shut off, start by removing the faucet handle. To do this, find the small set screw located somewhere near the bottom or back of the handle. Every brand is different, but these screws are often hex screws, so you might need the correct size Allen key to unscrew it. When the set screw has been unscrewed, lift the handle up and remove it.

Depending on what type of washerless faucet you have, the internal components of the handle may look a little different.

If You Have a Cartridge Faucet

You’ll need to remove the retaining nut before pulling out the cartridge. Using a pair of adjustable pliers, gently turn the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. Then, loosen the rest by hand. When the nut has been removed, use needle nose pliers to pull out the cartridge. To repair the leak, simply replace the cartridge with a model of the same size.

If You Have a Ball Faucet

A leak is usually caused by worn-out valve seats and springs. To replace them, use a pair of adjustable pliers to remove the handle cap. It’s possible that the cap will feel stuck in the housing. Again, don’t apply too much pressure with your wrench. Instead, wrap a cloth soaked in white vinegar on the dome and let it sit for a few minutes before trying again. Once the cap has been removed, remove the plastic cam, cam washer, rubber packing washer and the ball valve assembly as well. When the ball is out, the valve seat and springs should be visible. Remove them and replace them with new ones.

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How to Fix a Compression Faucet

Remove the Faucet Handles

To fix a dripping compression faucet, you’ll need to access the internal parts of the faucet. Start by taking off the faucet’s handles by removing the set screws located near the bottom or back of the handles. Then, use a screwdriver to loosen the screws holding the handle in place.

Remove the Stem

When the handles have been removed, locate the internal stem and stem nut that holds it in place. Using a wrench, carefully loosen and remove the nut.

Examine the O-Ring

Next, pull out the stem. Now, you should be able to see the O-ring and seat washer. Take a moment here to examine the O-ring. If it looks worn or cracked, replace the O-ring while you have the sink disassembled.

Replace the Washer

At the bottom of the stem, you’ll find the seat washer. Sometimes, the seat washer is held in place by a screw. If so, remove it before attempting to remove the washer. Once the washer is out, simply replace it with a new one. Luckily, these parts are inexpensive. Just make sure that you replace the O-ring and washer with ones that are the same size, as even the slightest difference can cause a big leak.

Once the washer has been replaced, reassemble the faucet and give it a test run to make sure you are leak-free.

Know Your Faucet

Knowing what type of faucet you have will help you diagnose and repair a leak any time one might occur. And while it might take some time and patience, repairing a leaking faucet is a project anyone can do without having to call in the pros.

You expect to hear a rush of water when you turn on your washing machine or flush your toilet. What you don’t expect is a banging, clanging or gurgling sound coming from your water pipes.

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Here’s what’s causing the wretched noise — and how to fix it.

Why Are My Water Pipes…

Your plumbing system is an intricate maze of pipes, drains and valves, all of which work together to give you the comforts of modern plumbing on demand. When something goes wrong, you typically find out quickly with signs like leaks, low water pressure or noisy pipes. Often, the type of noise you’re hearing indicates what’s wrong with your plumbing.

Banging

Does it sound like someone’s hitting your pipes with a hammer every time you run water? The issue could be a phenomenon called water hammer, which happens when a water valve closes suddenly. You’ll often hear it when your washing machine stops filling, for example. The momentum and pressure from the water flowing toward the valve create the shockwave that causes the banging noise when the valve closes suddenly. It might not seem like a big deal, but water hammer can cause damage to your pipes, including leaks and joint damage.

One way to ease water hammer is by installing water hammer arrestors. Your plumber can install them near major valves to help cushion the shock of the water when it suddenly stops or changes direction. You might also need to reduce the water pressure coming into your home with the pressure-reducing valve.

Gurgling

Gurgling sounds typically come from drainpipes. This sound happens when the water can’t drain properly, usually when there’s a clog in the water pipes. Drain clogs often happen due to hair, grease, soap scum or objects that fall down the drain. They can happen suddenly or build up slowly over time.

You can sometimes clear a clogged drainpipe with a plunger to help force the clog through the pipe. A plumbing snake or an auger can also help break up tough clogs. A common plumbing myth is that chemical drain cleaners are safe and effective, but they often don’t work and contain harsh chemicals that can hurt you and your plumbing. If you can’t remove the clog with a plunger or snake, it’s best to call a plumber to help.

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Rattling

Water travels through your pipes with lots of pressure, so the pipes are bound to move a little. Pipes should be secured well to keep them from moving too much when water runs through them. If they’re not properly fastened or the fasteners come loose, you might hear them rattling when you run water.

Resecuring the pipes can cut down on the rattling noise and prevent damage to the joints of the water pipes. However, many pipes run behind walls where you can’t easily access them. A plumber can help determine if loose fasteners are the cause of the rattling and resecure them if necessary.

Humming

If your pipes sound like they’re humming, it’s likely a water pressure issue. When the water pressure is high, it can cause the water pipes to vibrate and create a humming sound. High water pressure is more common if you have a well for your water, but it can happen with municipal water as well. High water pressure can damage your plumbing and cause leaks.

If you have a well, check the pressure to ensure it’s below 55 pounds per square inch. A plumber can test the pressure for you and help adjust the issue if you’re not sure how to do it yourself. If you’re connected to the municipal water source, your home likely has a pressure-reducing valve near where the water enters your home. You can adjust the screw in the valve to decrease the pressure, but be careful not to lower it too much.

Squeaking

Squeaking or squealing is another common sound you’ll hear in your water pipes. This often happens if small components within the plumbing, such as washers or aerators, become loose, dirty or damaged. When this is the cause, the squeaking sound is usually confined to a certain fixture or area of plumbing. Replaced or repairing the part should solve the noise.

If you can hear the squealing sound everywhere in your home, it could be an issue with water pressure. Buildup in the pipes narrows the space for the water, which can cause squealing as the water tries to squeeze through the pipes. Wear and tear on the plumbing system can also cause whistling or squeaking. These situations typically require a professional plumber to diagnose and repair.

You might not give much thought to your water heater, but, like most things, water heaters get a lot more attention when they stop working properly. How can you tell if your water heater is having issues — even before something goes wrong?

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Beyond the obvious (your hot water isn’t working), there are actually quite a few signs your water heater is going out. Learn what these symptoms might mean for the health of your machine.

Broken Water Heater? Check For These 5 Common Problems:

Inconsistent Water Temperature

One way to know that your water heater is not working as it should is if you’re experiencing inconsistent water temperatures. Inconsistent water temperature could signal an issue with the thermostat, but it could also point toward a problem with the heating element, which is a bigger issue to address. However, if your water is not staying heated for long enough, it may mean that nothing is actually broken; you just need a bigger tank. If inconsistent heating continues to be an issue with your water heater, have a licensed plumber come out to inspect the situation further.

Low Water Pressure

Low water pressure is another possible warning sign that your water heater is acting up. Although other factors can influence water pressure, if you notice the water pressure from your taps is lower than usual when the warm or hot water is running, the issue is likely with buildup in your water heater. Sediment collects inside the water heater over time, causing blockages and lower flow. To fix this issue, you could call in a plumber to either clean the supply lines or replace the pipe. If you have a newer model water heater, you might want a plumber to try cleaning and flushing the sediment from the pipes first to see if that fixes the problem.

Discolored Water

If your water starts to look murky or rusty, it may be a warning sign that your water heater is corroding. If a water heater tank begins to corrode, rust can build up pretty quickly, causing discolored water that doesn’t taste good. Although it’s likely not harmful, this rust can damage your appliances. Plus, no one wants rusty, murky water to shower or wash dishes with!

Before replacing the entire water heater, you can try replacing the anode rod and see if that solves the problem. Anode rods are steel wires that have other components — like magnesium and aluminum — that help prevent corrosion in standard tank water heaters. However, they typically wear out faster than the water heaters themselves, meaning you’ll probably need to replace your anode rod every three to five years, depending on your water quality and usage.

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Strange Noises

Water heaters make some noise as part of their regular functioning, but if you start hearing unusual sounds coming from your water heater, it may signal that your water heater needs some work. If you hear a rumbling or banging sound, you could have sediment buildup in your tank that needs to be flushed out. Excess sediment buildup can also cause a popping sound. In addition to flushing out your tank, replacing your anode rod might be in order.

A crackling or hissing sound, on the other hand, may indicate moisture buildup in a gas water heater. In an electric tank, it may mean something is obstructing the tank’s heating element. If this is the case, you may need to drain your tank or call a professional for further assistance.

Whistling or high-pitched screeching sounds (yikes!) are usually related to pressure adjustments in your tank. If they continue, you may want to double-check that your pressure valves and your temperature valves are adjusted properly. If you aren’t comfortable addressing this on your own, you can call in a technician to come take a look.

Eggy Smell

An eggy smell in your water is no fun, and it’s often a sign that your water heater is not working properly. Although other water issues, like sulfur bacteria in your water supply, can also cause your water to smell like eggs, if the issue is specific to your warm and hot water supply, then you can assume the problem stems from your water heater. Sulfur bacteria love the warm, wet conditions of a water heater tank. The bacteria can build up in your tank, causing that unpleasant rotten egg smell.

Although it doesn’t mean that your water heater is broken, an eggy smell is something you’ll want to remedy ASAP. To kill the sulfur bacteria, some people suggest shocking the tank with bleach. This can be a little tricky to do, so you may want to try raising the temperature of your tank temporarily instead to kill the bacteria. You can also try replacing your magnesium anode with one of a different material. Aluminum rods tend to produce less sulfide bacteria than magnesium rods, which might be helpful if your water is prone to developing that sulfur smell.

Broken Water Heater No More

If your water heater is exhibiting any of the warning signs above, it’s best to address them promptly to avoid bigger problems down the line. The good news is that many of these issues can be fixed without having to replace your water heater entirely, meaning you can get back to enjoying dependably hot showers again without breaking the bank.

One of the best times to be indoors is when the temperatures plummet. Nothing quite beats the feeling of being snuggled under a blanket in the protective warmth of your house when a winter freeze hits. But that feeling of comfort can quickly evaporate if one or more of the pipes in your plumbing system freeze.

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If that happens, not only will you experience an inability to access the water supplied by the pipe, but you may also be faced with a burst pipe, which can lead to thousands of dollars in damage if not handled correctly. Fortunately, thawing out frozen pipes is an easy procedure — as is keeping them from freezing in the first place. Here’s what you need to know.

What Causes Pipes to Burst in the Winter?

While practically any pipe in your home can freeze if it gets cold enough, the pipes that run through exterior walls or through unheated areas like basements or crawlspaces are especially prone. When the water that flows through these pipes freezes, it expands. But that’s not the direct cause of the bursting pipe. The ice forms a blockage in the pipe, which causes a buildup of pressure between the blockage and your faucet. This increased pressure is what can eventually cause a pipe to split open.

What Are the Signs of Frozen Pipes?

The clearest sign that one or more of your plumbing lines is frozen is when no water (or just a little trickle) comes out of the faucet when you turn it on. Another sign that signals ice in the lines is a clanging or gurgling sound when the water is used. The pipes themselves can also give you a heads-up that something might be wrong. Pipes that look swollen or those covered in condensation could be an indication that they are succumbing to the pressure buildup caused by ice.

How Can You Thaw Frozen Pipes?

If you notice any of these signs, your first step should be to shut off the water at the main valve. This is usually found on the inside of the house where the main water line enters from the street or your well. Then, trace the line from the faucet that’s not working to find the source of the ice blockage. If you are having issues at more than one faucet, the issue might be somewhere along the main line or in multiple places.

After you find the problem spot (or spots), your goal is to get the pipe warmed back up. The methods to do this aren’t very fancy, but they do work. You can simply run a hairdryer back and forth along the line to defrost the pipe. Similarly, you can wrap the frozen area in an electric heating pad. A portable heater placed near the frozen pipe can also get the job done, as can special heating cables wrapped around it. Finally, for the most low-tech of all solutions, if you can access hot water anywhere in the home, you can soak bath towels in hot water, then wrap them around the frozen pipes.

When thawing pipes, you’ll want to be sure that you have some buckets and extra towels around. If the pressure buildup has already created a small tear or hole in a pipe, when you turn the water back on, it can spray everywhere and accumulate quickly.

Also, never use any kind of flame or device that uses a flame to defrost your pipes. This is not only a safety hazard, but it can damage your pipes even more.

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How to Prevent Frozen Pipes

Pipes generally need to be in 20-degree Fahrenheit (7-degree Celsius) weather for more than six hours to begin to freeze. So knowing this, you can take steps to keep things warm. One option is to place a space heater in any areas where it can get exceptionally cold in the winter months, like your basement or garage. In the home, keep cabinet doors open so that your home’s heat can reach the pipes, especially if they are on exterior walls.

And speaking of your home’s heat, when it gets exceptionally cold outside, it’s a good idea to keep your thermostat at a set temperature. While some people use timers or smart thermostats to save energy, a deep freeze is not the time to skimp on heat. The damage from a burst pipe can cost a lot more than a little extra warmth. If you are going away during the cold months, leave your thermostat on a setting not lower than 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius).

In addition to providing heat to your pipes, you can also insulate cold areas in your home and wrap the pipes themselves with inexpensive pipe insulation.

Although it might sound like an old wives’ tale, leaving water trickling out of your faucets really can help ward off frozen pipes as moving water is much less likely to freeze than still water. Again, it might go against your sense of environmentalism to waste water, but a burst pipe can dump gallons in mere seconds and cause damage that would require hundreds or even thousands of dollars in new materials to repair.

When you have a clogged drain in your house, your first instinct is probably to grab a plunger. Little do you know, there are some cases where standard plunging is almost useless — like when the main sewer line in your home gets clogged. When this happens, you can end up with widespread flooding and plumbing problems all over your home.

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To prevent serious damage, you need to be able to identify clogged sewer lines and know how to handle them.

Are Your Main Sewer Lines Clogged?

Throughout your home, you have drain lines carrying wastewater away from sinks, toilets, tubs and more. All of these lines lead to the main sewer line. This huge pipe sends all the waste from your home right to your sewer or septic system. When it gets clogged, drains all over your home are unable to work — and you could even end up with water backing up out of your fixtures, leaky pipes and other problems. Yikes!

If you find yourself with a main sewer line clog, there’s not really any do-it-yourself way of fixing it. These drain lines are often buried deep under the ground far away from your home. You typically need special equipment and professional know-how to handle them. Though you usually cannot repair it yourself, that doesn’t mean you’re helpless. There are still a couple things you can do to keep the problem from getting worse until a plumber can help you.

Clogged Sewer Line Causes

This type of clog is fairly rare, since most sewer lines are around 4 to 6 inches wide. It usually only happens if something has gone seriously wrong in your plumbing system. One of the most common causes of a clog is damage to the sewer line itself. If a pipe collapses or bends, the damage can keep waste from moving through the line properly. There are all sorts of things that can harm a sewer line, including:

• Shifting soil around the pipe
• Corrosion within the pipe
• Construction near the line
• Heavy traffic above the sewer pipe
• Damaged pipe joints

Another big reason sewer lines clog is that they gradually sag over time. This bend in the pipe makes it easy for debris to collect, eventually causing a clog.

The most common type of debris that clogs a sewer line is fat. If you pour greases, fats or oils down a sink drain, they will eventually cool and harden. Even if you run hot water with the grease, it typically firms up by the time it reaches your main sewer line. Then, the fat sticks to your lines and causes a clog.

Other types of debris that often causes clogs includes paper towels, so-called flushable wipes, sanitary products and other bulky items flushed down the toilet. You should never send anything besides liquids and toilet paper down your drains.

A final cause of clogged sewer pipes is tree roots. Trees are surprisingly powerful. Even tiny roots can worm their way into your pipes over time. You may not notice a significant leak since the root will clog up the broken area in the line. However, as the roots keep growing inside of the pipe, they form a mass through which sewage has a hard time passing.

Signs Your Sewer Line May Be Clogged

Most clogged sewers happen gradually. Being able to identify them in the early stages will help you address problems before you end up with sewage water flooding your entire house. Here are some things to look out for if you suspect that you may need a sewer line cleaning:

Dark Water

One of the signature symptoms of a main-drain clog is water backing up in your tubs or showers. This happens when you try to drain water but there’s nowhere for it to go because the sewer line is clogged. The water then moves backward, seeking the lowest point of entry. In most homes, this will be the shower, tub or floor drain in a basement.

Unlike flooding fixtures caused by a leaky pipe, the water will not be clear. Since a lot of waste material is mixed in, it will usually be dark, stinky and gross-looking. Keep in mind that this water can have raw sewage, so you need to be cautious around it. Use proper protective gear and powerful cleaners when cleaning up after dark water flows into your drains.

Slow-Moving Drains

Take a minute to think about the drains in your home. Are they draining rapidly, or do you notice water pooling whenever you run the water? Your drains tend to slow down when there’s a clog because most sewer line clogs do not suddenly block 100% of the pipe. Instead, debris accumulates over time, making it harder and harder for waste to move through.

If all the drains in your home are starting to slow down, the problem is most likely a clogged sewer line. Typically, the first drains you will notice slowing down are the toilet drains. When you flush the toilet, the water may seem to hang there for a moment before gradually sinking down. Toilets are often the first drain affected by a mainline clog because they’re usually connected directly to your sewer line.

Gurgling Sounds

Because a mainline clog keeps your drains from working properly, you might get some weird reactions as you use your plumbing system. When you run a sink, flush a toilet or use a washing machine, water and air bubbles can form. All this stuff rumbling around in your pipes can cause noises. Since sound travels strangely through pipes, these noises can seem to come from plumbing fixtures, walls other rooms, or even the floor and ceiling.

The most frequent sound people report is a gurgling noise that happens while they’re using a drain. However, you may also notice strange hissing, bubbling or trickling noises. If your main sewer line is almost entirely clogged, it can take a while for stuff to drain through. Therefore, you may keep hearing weird noises long after you quit using a drain.

Clogged Plumbing Fixtures

If your clogged sewer line goes unnoticed for too long, you’ll start noticing this sign: As the clog builds up, almost no wastewater will be able to move through the pipe. When this happens, your drains quit working altogether. Instead of just slightly slow drainage, your plumbing fixtures will seem to quit draining entirely.

Remember that all the plumbing fixtures in your home are connected, so a clogged sewer pipe will keep draining from happening all over the house. If you run the kitchen sink, you may walk into the bathroom to find a shower that seems clogged. Your toilets on the upper floor might seem to work fine, but then when you go downstairs, all the sinks may be clogged.

What to Do When Your Sewer Line Is Clogged

Noticing that your sewer line is clogged is half the battle. Once you realize it’s happening, the solution is simple. You just need to keep calm and follow these two simple steps:

1. Turn Off the Water

First of all, turn off the water in your home. This step is important because it keeps the situation from getting worse. You don’t want to absentmindedly turn on a clogged sink and end up flooding one of your bathrooms with raw sewage. It also keeps leaking pipes or automatic processes — like a dishwasher on a timer — from trying to drain more water into your clogged line.

To turn off your water, you need to identify your water main, which is the line that supplies your home with water. Often, you can find it near your home’s water meter, or sometimes it’s outside the home near a corner of your house. It typically has a large wheel, handle or lever. Turn it until it’s entirely closed off.

2. Call a Plumber

It’s technically possible to clear out some small sewer line clogs yourself, but this is rarely advisable. The problem with DIY repair is that the majority of sewer line clogs are caused by broken pipes, tree roots and other issues deep within your plumbing system. Most people who know how to handle a basic drain clog don’t have the tools for sewer drain clogs.

Professionals have heavy-duty main sewer line cleaners and other equipment that lets them clear away all sorts of clogs. They also have the knowledge and experience to diagnose the primary issue. Just dumping some main drain cleaner down a toilet yourself won’t help you identify and repair tree root growth or other serious plumbing problems.

Getting a professional to examine your whole plumbing system will help ensure the real problem is addressed. Depending on your situation, you may need to replace sewer pipes entirely, which can involve digging up the yard and doing some major plumbing.

How Do You Unclog a Sewer Line?

Ultimately, you do need a professional who knows how to unclog a sewer line. However, there are a few things you can do to at least try mitigating the clog before your contractor arrives.

Many homes have a sewer line cleanout, which is a large pipe with a cap on the end, found in your basement or on the side of your home. You can remove this cap to access your main sewer line. If you get very lucky, the clog might have been forced against your cleanout, in which case, you can just pull it out manually.

You can also try running a plumbing auger through the sewer line. This may break up the clog or enable you to pull out some of the debris. However, sewer line clogs are often big enough that the standard drain auger can’t fix the clog.

Most of the time, snaking your sewer line yourself will just get things moving a little, making it easier to clean up backflow and get your home in livable condition. Keep in mind that clogs will probably keep happening until you get a thorough sewer line cleaning. You’ll still need to call in a licensed plumber to handle the main clog.

When you have coverage from Service Line Warranties of America, even big plumbing problems don’t have to be a hassle. We help cover the cost of repairs up to your benefit amount, so your finances are protected from unexpected issues. With our 24/7 repair hotline, you can always speak to someone about scheduling a visit from a plumber. Get access to these benefits and more by signing up for a plumbing plan from Service Line Warranties of America today.

A washing machine is a true workhorse appliance, and if it quits on you unexpectedly, it can wreak havoc on your laundry routine. To make matters worse, sometimes a washer will stop working mid-cycle, leaving you with gallons of standing water to deal with. So, what’s the easiest way to get water out of your washer without making a royal mess?

This May Also Interest You: Why Is My Washing Machine Leaking?

The truth is, there are a couple of different approaches to removing water from the washing drum when your washer won’t drain. Which one will work best for you will depend on the issue and the type of machine you have. Here’s a list of do-it-yourself strategies you can use to try and remove the water from your machine and ready it for whatever repair might be necessary.

4 Ways to Get Standing Water Out of Your Washer

Check the Lid

As with most troubleshooting, it can pay to start with the simplest possible solution. First, double-check that the washer’s lid (or door for front-loading machines) is completely closed, since this can sometimes prevent washers from completing a cycle. Many washers have a lid switch that must be in the locked position in order to run. If your washer has one of these, make sure the lid is clicking into place properly so that it’s engaging the switch. If you aren’t sure it’s working, you can try to press the lid switch manually and listen for that tell-tale clicking noise. If you don’t hear it shift into place, this could be your problem.

Try the Spin Cycle

If the lid’s not the issue, see if you can turn your machine to the spin cycle manually and try to drain the water that way. You can also go for the old “turn it off and on again” technique here by unplugging it and plugging it back in. It could be that your machine just had a weird mechanical blip that wasn’t allowing it to drain properly, and resetting it may solve the problem.

Drain the Drain Hose

If the spin cycle technique didn’t work, you can try draining the drain hose instead. Important note: You’ll want to make sure to turn off both the power and water supply before attempting this to prevent electric shock or flooding. Even so, you should plan on water leakage, so go ahead and put some old towels down to protect your floor.

For Top-Loading Machines

You’ll need to pull the washing machine away from the wall to reach the drain hose in the back. The drain hose connects your washer to a drain pipe in the wall and is typically gray. Before removing it, just double-check that it’s not kinked or twisted in a way that may be preventing your washer from draining properly.

If that doesn’t seem to be the problem, you can go ahead and disconnect the drain hose from the wall, holding it upright so the water doesn’t run out until you are ready to let the water from your machine drain into a bucket or other container.

While you have the hose disconnected from the wall, go ahead and check to see if there’s any debris stuck in the pipe. If your washer’s drain hose is clogged, that could be to blame for your drainage problem.

More Related Articles:

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• Why Does My Washing Machine Smell?
• Should You Repair or Replace Your Washing Machine?
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For Front-Loading Machines

You’ll need to remove the access panel on the bottom front of the washer to access the drain line. Some front-load washing machines come with a single drainpipe filter, but some have both a drainpipe filter and a drain hose. For machines with only a drain pump filter, you can put a shallow container (like a plastic bin or old cake pan) under the filter to catch the water, turning the knob slowly so the water doesn’t pour out too quickly. You can dump the water as the container fills up and repeat until you’ve drained all the water.

If you have both a drainpipe filter and a pipe, you’ll need to unclip the drain tube, remove the end cap, and let the water drain from the pipe that way. While you’re here, you can go ahead and inspect the drainpipe filter for debris and scrub clean if necessary.

Manual Draining

If you try the above steps, but the water still doesn’t want to drain from your drain pipe, you likely still have a clog that you can’t locate. In this scenario, you may have to manually remove the water by scoping it directly out of the drum. This will require a container for scooping and a lot of towels to help with inevitable spillage and for sopping up the last bit of water in the drum. It’s not the most glamorous of tasks, but you’ll be glad to have all that standing water out of your washer until you can troubleshoot further.

Down the Drain

A washer not draining is a real downer, but sometimes the issue isn’t as serious as it seems. That said, appliances don’t always cooperate, and if you run into problems with any of the above approaches, you may have to call in a service professional to help get the job done.

Have you ever opened your fridge and wondered why the back wall is covered in a sheen of moisture? That’s condensation, which is completely normal and generally harmless. What’s not normal in most modern refrigerators is ice buildup outside of the freezer unit. If you have a huge chunk of ice forming on the wall of your fridge, you’re going to want to take immediate steps to remove it.

This May Also Interest You: Common Refrigerator Problems and How to Fix Them

Read on to find out more about ice buildup in the fridge and how to address it.

Why Is There Ice Buildup in My Fridge?

There’s always going to be a chance that moisture will collect on the inner walls of your fridge, especially toward the back. That’s because cold air holds less moisture than warm air. The colder the air is, the more moisture is pulled out of it. That moisture then settles on the surfaces of your fridge. The air inside your fridge tends to be coldest toward the back, which is why moisture often forms there first.

If you see ice starting to form on the inside of the fridge, though, that’s an indicator that something might be wrong. The normal moisture is starting to freeze, which can lead to temperature control problems inside the unit. It can also lead to the failure of the appliance.

How to Manually Defrost a Fridge

Ice can form for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, these are one-off or temporary causes, like climate issues or the way you’ve filled the fridge. Ice may build up if you’ve been opening and closing the door more than normal. If you see ice building up, you may want to defrost the fridge, then keep an eye on it to see if the issue arises again. The recurrence of ice would indicate a more serious problem.

Not all appliances are the same, so remember to consult your manufacturer’s instructions for more specific steps on what to do if your unit has ice buildup. Here are the basic steps for manually defrosting your fridge:

1. Take everything out of the fridge and freezer, then transfer it to another unit. If you don’t have another unit, consider “eating down” what’s in the fridge without replacing it so you can defrost the unit without wasting as much.

2. Unplug the unit.

3. Open the fridge and freezer doors to allow warm air inside.

4. Put drip pans or towels under the front of the fridge to catch the water that will eventually run out.

5. Let the unit defrost completely (this can take a full 24 hours), then dry interior areas with a clean towel.

6. Plug the unit back in and make sure everything’s working well. Watch for ice buildup as your fridge returns to normal temperatures.

7. Fill it back up with groceries once the temperature is cold enough, and ensure you keep the doors closed as much as possible.

Pro Tip: If you’re already going through all this work to clear out your fridge, make use of this time to deep clean the refrigerator. That way, when you get it back up and running, you have a fresh and sparkling interior, too.

More Related Articles:

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• Your Stainless-Steel Fridge Will Shine Bight Like a Diamond with These Cleaning Tips

Tips for Reducing Ice Buildup in Fridge

You won’t want to have to go through the manual defrosting process too often. Here are some things you can do whether you have a full-size unit or a minifridge with ice buildup:

• Keep the doors closed as much as possible. You let warm, moist air into the fridge every time you open the door. This can increase condensation and may make your fridge work harder.
• Ensure your fridge is level so the doors stay closed.
• Check the hinges and gaskets. Order replacement parts if necessary to ensure the doors can shut firmly and stay sealed.
• Let hot dishes cool before you store them to reduce moisture in the fridge.
• Store water-heavy foods such as fruits and vegetables in the humidity-controlled crisper to reduce the moisture in the main area.
• Check to ensure the fridge thermostat is set correctly. The FDA recommends an internal temperature of 40 degrees or lower, but you don’t want to go so low that foods and drinks freeze inside the fridge.
• Adjust internal fridge temperatures according to ambient temperatures outside. If the temperature of the room is warm, you may need to turn down the thermostat in the fridge to keep it cool enough for food safety. But if it’s very cold in the room outside, you might need to turn the internal fridge temperature up a bit to keep ice from forming inside. Smart fridges can often handle this adjustment for you.

Signs You May Need Help From a Professional

Water and even ice inside your fridge don’t necessarily indicate a serious problem; you may just need to perform some routine DIY maintenance. Make sure everyone in your household is also following good fridge practices as outlined above.

However, there are times that ice buildup can indicate a bigger issue. Perhaps the appliance itself is in need of professional repair. In other cases, you may need an electrician to ensure power is flowing appropriately in your kitchen. If ice buildup is a recurring issue, you should call a repair technician.

Since we’re all home now more than ever, being prepared for unexpected home repairs with a plan from Service Line Warranties of America is important. Having a plan in place gives you peace of mind knowing that you can simply call our 24/7 repair hotline for covered breakdowns. See what plans are available in your neighborhood.

Septic Tank Installation and Repair Costs at a Glance

• Average total cost: $4,500-$9,000 (CAD 5,800-CAD 11,600)
• Septic tank cost: $1,500-20,000 (CAD 1,900- CAD 25,800)
• Labor cost: $1,500-$4,000 (CAD 1,900-CAD 5,100)
• Drain field replacement: $1,000-$5,000 (CAD 1,300-CAD 6,500)

The wastewater your household creates is full of dangerous bacteria. Having a fully functioning septic tank is essential to help dispose of it safely — and to keep it from backing up into your sinks and toilets.

This May Also Interest You: What’s the Difference Between Septic and Sewer?

Read on for everything you’ll need to know about septic tank replacement, including how much it costs.

What Is a Septic Tank?

A septic tank is an underground chamber that moderately treats domestic wastewater. It’s designed to hold the wastewater long enough for solids to settle at the bottom and oil and grease to float. Liquid waste is then filtered out.

How Much Does It Cost to Install a Septic Tank?

On average, the cost of installing a new septic tank system is $6,100 (CAD 7,900), based on data from Fixr. The price ranges from $4,500 to $9,000 (CAD 5,800 to CAD 11,600) for a typical 1,000-gallon tank, which is an ideal size for a three-bedroom home.

This cost is inclusive of the tank itself, which costs around $1,500 (CAD 1,900) for a basic gravity tank and as much as $20,000 (CAD 25,800) for an aerobic system.

According to Bob Vila, labor costs are also included in the installation price, and usually range from $1,500 to $4,000 (CAD 1,900 to CAD 5,100).

Types of Septic Tank Systems

The total cost of installing or replacing your septic tank is largely dependent on the type of system you choose. Here are some of the most common kinds of tanks:

Anaerobic Septic System

Anaerobic systems are a common choice for many homeowners because they don’t require additional power or chemicals. An anaerobic system contains bacteria that do not need oxygen to survive. The bacteria break down solid waste, and the remaining liquid waste is piped out and distributed under the soil. The waste is naturally recycled as the water passes into the soil.

These systems cost about $2,000 to $5,000 (CAD 2,600 to CAD 6,400) to install.

Aerobic Septic System

Unlike anaerobic systems, aerobic systems use bacteria that do require oxygen to survive. Oxygen is pumped into the tank to activate the bacteria, which then feed on solid waste. Aerobic systems work well where the soil isn’t favorable for other systems and the groundwater table is high. It’s a good option for homes located near a body of water.

Aerobic systems are more expensive to install. Fixr says you should expect to pay between $10,000 and $20,000 (CAD 13,000 and CAD 25,800).

Gravity Septic System

A gravity septic system uses gravity for filtration and water flow. They need to be installed on a gentle slope to enable water flow without a pump.

Installation costs $1,500 to $4,000 (CAD 1,900 to CAD 5,100).

Conventional Septic System

The conventional septic system consists of a septic tank and a trench that acts as a drain field. The trench is constructed on stone or gravel and allows water to pass through. To prevent sand or dirt from contaminating the clean soil, geofabric is installed on top of the trench. A conventional septic system needs a large space to operate.

These systems cost between $2,000 and $7,000 (CAD 2,600 and CAD 9,100) to install, according to This Old House.

Mound Septic System

If your groundwater is close to the surface, a mound septic system is the best choice. A sand mound is constructed on the septic system area to pump wastewater from the tank into the mound in small quantities. The sand then filters the water before it gets into the soil and groundwater. This design requires a lot of space.

They’re also expensive to install because a sand mound has to be constructed. Total cost ranges from $10,000 to $20,000 (CAD 13,000 and CAD 25,800).

Chamber Septic System

Chamber septic systems have recently become a popular choice. They’re similar to conventional systems, except plastic chambers are used in the drain field instead of gravel. These are easier to construct and have a smaller carbon footprint.

They cost $3,500 to $10,000 (CAD 4,500 to CAD 13,000).

Septic Tank Materials

Another factor influencing cost is what your septic tank is made from. Here are some of the most common materials:

Concrete

Concrete tanks are the most common type of septic tank because they’re durable. Properly maintained, they can last 20 to 30 years. However, concrete may crack over time. Reinforcing the concrete with rebar helps increase its strength under pressure. Installation is more challenging, and extensive equipment is needed because of its weight. According to HomeGuide, the cost for an average-sized concrete tank is between $700 and $2,000 (CAD 900 to CAD 2,600).

Fiberglass

Fiberglass doesn’t weaken when used underground, and it’s nonporous, so it won’t attract algae growth. Installation is easier because the tank is light. Unlike concrete, it won’t expand or contract, so you don’t have to worry about cracking. The average fiberglass tank costs $1,600 to $2,000 (CAD 2,000 to CAD 2,600).

Plastic

Plastic tanks are light and easy to install. They’re also quite durable. Depending on the type, plastic tanks cost $800 to $2,000 (CAD 1,000 to CAD 2,600), on average.

Steel

Despite steel’s strength and durability, septic tanks made of steel can rust and collapse if not properly cleaned. As a result, some local authorities have increased regulations to discourage their use. You’ll usually find them in areas where the system already existed. If you can get one installed, they cost $500 to $2,500 (CAD 650 to CAD 3,200), according to Remodeling Expense.

What Size Septic Tank Do You Need?

Septic tank size is typically determined by the number of bedrooms your home has. This is used as a way to estimate how much water will flow through the system daily. Generally, the larger the system, the higher the cost.

Two Bedrooms

A two-bedroom house requires a septic system with a minimum of a 750-gallon septic tank. However, in many municipalities, a 1,000-gallon tank is the smallest size allowed.

Three Bedrooms

A three-bedroom house will need a minimum of a 1,000-gallon water tank, which regularly handles about 360 gallons of water per day.

Four Bedrooms

A four-bedroom home requires a larger tank with a minimum volume of 1,250 gallons. It handles around 480 to 600 gallons of water per day.

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Septic Tank Repair Costs

It’s possible your entire septic tank doesn’t need to be replaced, just a specific part. Repairs and replacement parts can cost far less than a full system replacement.

Drain Field

Drain fields can overload and flood, causing a backup of sewage in toilets and sinks. Drain or leach field replacements cost $1,000 to $5,000 (CAD 1,300 to CAD 6,500), according to data from Fixr.

Tank Pump

Usually, a replacement septic tank pump costs $250 to $1,500 (CAD 320 to CAD 1,900).

Tank Filter

The tank filter is the most common replacement done by homeowners. It usually costs $200 to $300 (CAD 260 to CAD 390)

Tank Lid

Over time, concrete covers may crack, and steel lids may rust. You can typically replace a septic tank lid on your own for $150 to $500 (CAD 190 to CAD 650). It costs a bit more to have it replaced by a professional.

Tank Baffle

Baffle directs wastewater through the septic tank. Expect to pay $300 to $900 (CAD 390 to CAD 1,160) to repair a tank baffle.

Additional Factors to Consider

A septic tank can either be installed under or above the ground. Installing a tank underground is costly because of the digging and footing preparation involved.

Underground septic tanks require a drain field that can be fitted with a soakaway. The soakaway makes the tank require less emptying because it allows for some of the wastewater to filter into the ground. This can reduce your spending over time.

Different jurisdictions require different permits. Some require that an inspector visit and approve the site, which could entail a fee. Septic tank permits vary from state to state, but in general, you’ll need to pay renewal fees upon the expiry of your permit.

How Long Does a Septic Tank Last?

A septic tank’s lifespan varies depending on the material and type of system installed. Clogging caused by roots or flooding from groundwater can decrease the septic tank’s lifespan. On average, septic systems last 15 to 20 years.

Regularly servicing your septic tank is the best way to increase its longevity. It’s important to note that servicing is more than just pumping out the tank; it’s also necessary to have a professional inspect your tank regularly and perform routine maintenance.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.