Concerned about damp walls in your house? Moisture can accumulate in your home, leaving walls as sweaty as the winner of the Boston Marathon. Wall deodorant isn’t a thing, but we have solutions for moisture on walls.

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If you suspect your walls are sweating from condensation or humidity problems, we’ll explain why interior wall condensation occurs and how you can prevent sweating walls.

Is It Normal to Have Moisture on Your Walls?

If your walls are sweating, condensation is typically the culprit. Think about how an ice-cold glass of lemonade or tea sweats on a hot summer day. A similar process occurs when warm, humid air combines with the cool surface of your walls or ceiling.

The water in your air becomes wall condensation when it can’t evaporate. Cold air has less space to retain water than warm air, so moisture quickly turns into water droplets. This can cause wall condensation problems in your home.

Why Your Walls Are Sweating

Moisture on walls often stems from high indoor humidity. Insulation issues, ventilation problems and temperature spikes can all play a role. Here’s a quick description of why these factors could be causing sweaty walls in your home.

High Indoor Humidity

Taking hot baths and showers, running the dryer or preparing your favorite recipe can increase humidity in your home. Even breathing can increase humidity levels — but don’t worry, you don’t have to hold your breath. Ensure your home has adequate ventilation, and run a fan when you shower or cook.

Insulation Issues

Poorly insulated walls are humidity magnets, so replace or add drywall behind walls that frequently trap moisture. You should also seal gaps or holes around doors, windows and baseboards. Installing double- or triple-pane windows may also help fend off excess humidity.

Ventilation Problems

Poor ventilation makes it difficult for your home to release extra humidity. Keep air moving with ceiling or box fans, and open doors or windows on a cool day. Trickle vents and air bricks can also improve airflow.

Your heating and cooling system may also need attention. An HVAC tech can check for ventilation problems and offer personalized solutions.

Temperature Spikes

Drastic indoor temperature changes can cause condensation buildup or humidity on walls. Don’t blast the AC if you come home to a sweltering home, and don’t run the heat at full force if it’s freezing inside. Slowly cool or heat your home to prevent excess humidity.

Using a programmable thermostat can help prevent temperature spikes. Also, avoid placing furniture or large toys directly against walls, as these can trap moisture.

How to Fix Walls Sweating From Condensation

After identifying the cause of your home’s sweating walls, you can take steps to prevent humidity on the walls. Basically, you must decrease humidity, improve ventilation and address insulation problems. The treatment you choose for walls sweating from condensation depends on the culprit.

Here are some ways you can reduce moisture on walls:

• Install ceiling fans in each room, and take advantage of your stovetop and bathroom fans.
• Ask a professional if you could benefit from air bricks or trickle vents.
• Use a smart or programmable thermostat to keep temperatures consistent and cool or heat your home slowly.
• Address insulation issues, such as doorway gaps, broken windows, missing drywall or broken baseboards.
• Schedule regular maintenance appointments for your HVAC system and ductwork so you can identify leaks quickly.
• Ask an HVAC professional if your home needs a dehumidifier to keep moisture levels low.
• Many wall condensation problems are treatable with a few simple home upgrades or lifestyle changes.

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Prevention Tips for Interior Wall Condensation

Humidity can enter your home through gaps in doors, windows, baseboards, flooring and roofing. Poor ventilation also plays a strong role, so have a professional ensure your home’s ventilation system is in good condition. You may need new ductwork or vents if you have ventilation problems, especially if you have an older home. Make sure your home has adequate insulation, such as drywall or fiberglass behind the walls.

Keep an eye on indoor humidity levels. Otherwise, you may end up with moldy walls, flaking paint or peeling wallpaper. Excess moisture can also damage your home’s frame, resulting in costly damage. Seek professional assistance if your home has insulation, ventilation or humidity problems.

For a lot of people, the winter months can bring cold air both outside and in. Setting the thermostat can become a battle between those who want warmth and those who are looking to be energy efficient (or, let’s be honest, those who want to save some money).

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But there is a range of temperatures that can make everyone in the house happy.

Cold Climate Considerations

When winter sets in, and temperatures plummet, maintaining a comfortable indoor environment becomes essential. If you live in a cold climate, the recommended indoor temperature during winter is typically between 68 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit. This range strikes a balance between comfort and energy efficiency.

Comfort and Health

Maintaining a temperature of 68 to 72 degrees ensures a comfortable living space without excessive heating costs. This range is generally comfortable for most people, allowing you to perform daily activities without feeling cold.

Energy Efficiency

Heating accounts for a significant portion of energy consumption in cold climates. By keeping your thermostat within the 68- to 72-degree range, you can manage heating costs more effectively. Every degree above this range can increase your heating bill by approximately 3%, which adds up over a long winter.

For those seeking further efficiency, consider setting the temperature slightly lower (around 65 degrees) at times while you’re sleeping or away from home, and using a programmable thermostat to automatically adjust the temperature based on your schedule.

Preventing Damage

Maintaining adequate indoor temperatures also prevents damage to your home. Extremely low indoor temperatures can cause pipes to freeze and burst, leading to costly repairs. By keeping the temperature at a safe level, you ensure that your plumbing and other infrastructure remain intact during the harsh winter months.

Warm or Temperate Climate Considerations

In warmer or more temperate climates, the approach to winter heating differs significantly. While heating is still necessary during the cooler months, the required indoor temperature is often lower than in colder climates. For these regions, an indoor temperature of 67 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit is generally recommended.

Energy Conservation

In temperate climates, winters are milder, and thus, the need for extensive heating is reduced. Keeping the indoor temperature at 67 to 70 degrees balances comfort with energy conservation. This range minimizes heating costs while still providing a cozy environment. Additionally, since the outdoor temperatures are not as extreme, the heat loss from your home is lower, making it easier to maintain this temperature range without excessive energy use.

Adapting to Milder Winters

Residents in warmer climates are often more accustomed to higher temperatures year-round. As a result, they might find a slightly cooler indoor temperature that is more comfortable compared to those in colder climates. A thermostat setting of 67 to 70 degrees can feel pleasantly warm for individuals used to milder winters, without the need for heavy winter clothing indoors.

Humidity Control

In warmer climates, maintaining indoor humidity levels is crucial during winter. Heating can cause indoor air to become dry, leading to discomfort and potential health issues such as dry skin and respiratory problems. Using a humidifier alongside your heating system can help maintain a balanced indoor environment, ensuring both temperature and humidity levels are optimal for comfort and health.

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Tips for Winter Heating

Regardless of your climate, there are several strategies you can employ to optimize your home’s heating efficiency during winter:

Insulation

Be sure your home is well-insulated to prevent heat loss. Proper insulation in walls, attics, and floors keeps warm air in and cold air out, reducing the need for excessive heating.

Weatherstripping

Seal any gaps around windows and doors with weatherstripping to prevent drafts. This simple step can dramatically improve your home’s ability to retain heat.

Curtains and Blinds

Use heavy curtains or thermal blinds to put an extra layer of insulation between you and the outside environment. Open them during sunny days to let natural warmth in, and close them at night to keep the heat inside.

Regular Maintenance

Keep your heating system well-maintained to allow it to operate efficiently. Regularly change filters and schedule annual inspections to keep your system running smoothly.

Find Your Home Temperature Sweet Spot

Before the winter months arrive, make sure your home is ready for that cold air outside. And by staying in the suggested temperature range, you can stay warm while also limiting the heating bill.

There I was, minding my own business, washing the dishes after dinner like I always do. Just moments into scrubbing and rinsing the frying pan, I noticed that the water wasn’t draining from the sink. I checked to see if anything was blocking the drain opening – nothing. I switched on the garbage disposal, but that was only a temporary fix. As I continued washing dishes, the drainage was only getting slower. With a clogged sink on my hands, my after-dinner cleanup was about to get more intense.

I’m sure I’m not the only one to experience the inconvenience of clogged drains. Clogged kitchen sinks are among the most common drainage issues to plague homeowners, largely because food debris and soap residue are nightmares for smooth draining. Thankfully, clogged drains are also one of the easiest home repairs to make on your own. However, before you roll up your sleeves and get into the do-it-yourself spirit, make sure you’re aware of the plumbing myths that could lead you astray.

When it comes to the kitchen sink, for instance, don’t think Drano and other chemical-based drain cleaners are the easy, go-to fix. The chemicals can sometimes cause more damage to your system, even if the clog seems fixed initially. Plus, backsplash from stubborn blockages could seriously harm your skin and eyes. You can avoid these catastrophes with other clog repair methods, some using common household items and others requiring some straightforward plunger or plumber’s snake action.

Don’t call the plumber yet! There’s a good chance you can fix the problem yourself with one of these six methods to unclog a kitchen sink:

How to Unclog a Stopped-Up Sink

1. Attack With Boiling Water

When hair, grease, soap residue and other debris get stuck in your drain, boiling water may be all your pipes needs to loosen the blockage. It’s the simplest fix, which means it should be your first move when trying to unclog a sink.Easy as 1-2-3, here are the steps to follow:

• Bring half a gallon of water to a boil on your stove or use a kettle to heat the water.
• Pour the boiling water directly into the drain opening.
• Turn on the faucet to see if the water drains in a steady fashion. If it’s still draining slowly or standing still in the sink, repeat the process.

Important note: Don’t try this method if your drain is attached to PVC pipes, as the boiling water could melt or damage the plastic.If the boiling water fails to dislodge the clog after the second try, it’s time to move on to another method. Unfortunately, you have yourself a sink clog that’s too stubborn for the simple boiling water approach.

2. Check the Garbage Disposal

If your sink has a garbage disposal, it could be the culprit of your drainage issues. If the clog is in the disposal, turning it on will usually break up the blockage. Overheated or dysfunctional disposals may not even turn on, but you can activate the reset switch at the side or bottom of the unit for an easy reboot. After resetting the disposal, try turning it on again to clear the clog. If you turn on the disposal and hear a low humming sound, the unit could be jammed or broken. Before doing anything to fix your disposal, remember to disconnect the power to the unit and never — and we mean never — stick your hand in the disposal. From there, you can try to break up the clog in the disposal by turning the blades manually. You can do that by inserting an Allen wrench into the hole on the bottom of the disposal, and twisting until you feel less resistance, meaning the blockage is beginning to break up. If that doesn’t work, follow these tips to unclog your garbage disposal. Once unclogged, turn the power back on and test the disposal. If all looks and sounds good, turn the faucet to see if the sink drainage is back to normal.Keep in mind that your garbage disposal inspection may not reveal any clogs or issues, in which case you can skip straight to a different unclogging method.

3. Try Using a Plunger

Once you establish that the disposal isn’t the problem, it’s time to bring out the plunger. But keep in mind: While you can use the toilet plunger if it’s all you have on hand, Dengarden suggested using a flat-bottomed one for the job. With your plunger at the ready, follow these steps:

• Fill the sink with hot water until it’s about halfway full and creates a seal around the drain.
• Position the plunger over the drain and begin pumping up and down quickly several times.
• Remove the plunger and wait to see if the water drains.
• Repeat the process until the water drains freely.

If the sink still isn’t draining properly after multiple plunging attempts, you know the drill. Time to try a different method.

4. Break It Down With Baking Soda and Vinegar

This approach is a natural alternative to using chemical drain cleaners on clogged drains. Much to your convenience, baking soda and vinegar are also common household items that you’re likely to already have in your kitchen, and the chemical reaction they cause can help get things flowing. Follow these steps to let the mixture work its magic:

• Remove standing water from the sink with a cup or bowl.
• Pour one cup of baking soda down the drain, using a spatula or spoon to push the powder down the drain if necessary.
• Pour one cup of white vinegar down the drain opening.
• Place a stopper or cover on the drain to seal the opening.
• Let the mixture sit for 15 minutes.
• Remove the cover and run hot tap water down the drain.
• Use boiling water to break up more intense clogs.

As with any unclogging method, this baking soda and vinegar alternative doesn’t have a 100% success rate. However, if it seems like you’re making progress on the clog after completing the steps, repeat the process with another chemical reaction to double down on the blockage.

5. Snake the Drain

The clogs that put up a fight will require the strength of a plumber’s snake to battle the blockage. The tool has a coiled spiral snake that reaches down into the drain. Once the snake hits an obstruction, you can crank the handle to dislodge the debris and pull it out of the drain. Electric snakes pack even more power to tackle clogged drains.If you don’t have a plumber’s snake, you can create a makeshift one with a wire coat hanger. Simply use a pair of needle-nose pliers to unwind the hanger into a long piece of wire. Keep the hooked end, as this is what you’ll use to grab onto the debris. If necessary, you can use the pliers to adjust the angle of the hook so that it can easily fit through the drain opening.No matter which tool you’re using, simply feed it down the drain a few feet at a time. Try not to push too roughly, as you might accidentally push the clog further down the pipe. When you feel the tip of your tool hit an obstruction, hook it on and pull the debris up through the drain. Keep doing this until you feel confident that the blockage is gone. Run hot water down the drain to see if you’re right.

6. Clean the P-Trap

If the water is still not draining correctly, there might be a blockage in the P-trap, aka the elbow-shaped pipe under your sink. Food, grease and other debris may be stuck in the pipe, causing your sink to drain slowly or not at all because the water hits a snag on its way down.The fix is disassembling the pipe to clean out the gunk that’s causing the blockage. Warning: This task can get a little messy, so you might want to prepare yourself with gloves, goggles and towels. When you’re ready, follow these steps to clean the P-trap:

• Place a bucket underneath the pipe. This will catch any backed up water or debris that may fall out when you open the P-trap.
• Unscrew the connectors on the trap that hold the curved piece to the vertical and horizontal drain pipe. There should be a slip nut on either end of the P-trap.
• Remove the P-trap and clean the pipe of all debris, grime and residue.
• Reconnect the trap.
• Turn on the faucet to run water down the drain.

If the drainage situation is still not up to par, the clog may be farther up the pipe. Back under the sink you go to find the source of the blockage. Here’s what to do when you get there:

• Repeat the steps to remove the P-trap.
• Remove the horizontal pipe that connects the system to the wall.
• Feed a plumber’s snake, auger or coat hanger into the wall pipe. When you feel an obstruction, use your tool to pull the blockage out from the pipe.
• Repeat the process until you remove all debris.
• Reassemble the pipes and P-trap, tightening the connectors by hand. (Pro tip from Home Depot:Do not over-tighten, as this may cause the connectors to crack.)
• Run hot water to flush the drain.

Before you celebrate your handiwork, check under the sink while the water’s running to make sure there isn’t any leaking from the pipes. If you do notice leaks, make sure all the connectors are tightened. Once you’re free from the drips, dry any water spillage from under the sink or on the floor and you’re good to go.If you’ve made it to this point and your sink still isn’t draining, there could be a larger issue at play. It’s time to give in and schedule an appointment with a plumber for a professional fix.

How to Prevent Future Clogs

Now that your kitchen sink is draining properly again, make sure you’re taking measures to prevent clogs from coming back. The most important preventative measure is refraining from disposing of harmful items down the drain. That includes:

• Grease, fats and oils
• Meat
• Coffee grounds
• Egg shells
• Starchy foods, such as pasta, rice or bread
• Fruit peels, pits and stickers
• Gum
• Paint
• Paper products, such as paper towels or food wrappers

Instead, pour cooking grease in an old can and dispose of the container once it’s full. You can add certain waste, including coffee grounds, to mulch or compost piles.The Home Depot also advised homeowners not to overload the garbage disposal. Try not to grind more than one cup of food waste at a time, and, of course, avoid sending any of the above items to the disposal. Another pro maintenance tip: Create an equal solution of vinegar and water, and freeze the mixture in an ice cube tray. About once a month, grind a few of the cubes down your disposal to scrape away food-waste buildup and keep the unit fresh. Here are more garbage disposal do’s and don’ts to keep your drains clean and clear.Another good habit for your pipes sake is running hot water down the drain after each sink use to keep everything clear. You might also want to use a drain cover to catch debris before they cause damage in the pipes.

Winterizing your sprinkler system is one of the most important steps to protect it from freezing temperatures. Without proper preparation, water left inside the pipes can freeze and expand, leading to cracked pipes, damaged valves and broken sprinkler heads.

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Come springtime, these issues could cost you hundreds — if not thousands — in repairs. To avoid these problems, proper winterization is key.

How to Winterize Your Lawn Irrigation System

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

Begin by turning off the main water supply to your sprinkler system. You’ll typically find the shut-off valve near your water meter. This step ensures no more water will enter the system, reducing the risk of freezing.

Step 2: Release Trapped Water from the Backflow Preventer

After shutting off the water, you’ll need to release any water trapped inside the backflow preventer. This device is designed to stop contaminated water from flowing back into your home’s clean water supply. Typically located near your main shut-off valve, the backflow preventer is usually outside or in a utility area. It often looks like a brass or plastic valve assembly with handles and test cocks. Open the test cocks and shut-off valves to allow any remaining water to escape. Leaving the valves at a 45-degree angle afterward will help prevent any trapped water from freezing.

Step 3: Turn Off the Timer or Controller

If your irrigation system operates on an automated timer or controller, it’s important to disable it for the winter. Some systems feature a “rain mode,” which allows you to stop the system from running while keeping your settings intact for the following season. If you forget this step, the system could try to water your lawn during freezing weather and potentially cause significant damage.

Step 4: Inspect the System for Damage

Before you drain the system, inspect your sprinkler heads, valves, and any other visible components. Look for cracked heads, leaks, or other signs of wear. Fix any damage before winterizing, as a broken head or valve could allow water to remain in the system and increase the risk of freezing and bursting pipes.

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Step 5: Drain or Blow Out the System

Once your irrigation system is shut down and inspected, you can drain it using one of three methods: manual draining, automatic draining, or the blow-out method. Each method works, but the right one depends on your system’s configuration.

Manual draining systems usually have drain valves located at the lowest points of your system, which you’ll need to open to release the water. If you notice valves along your pipes or near sprinkler heads, especially at low points, you likely have a manual drain system.

Automatic drain systems, on the other hand, release water automatically when the water pressure drops below a certain level, meaning you won’t see as many drain valves. To determine if you should use the manual method, check your system’s manual or inspect your pipes for these valves.

The blow-out method uses compressed air to remove water from the irrigation system. This is the most thorough approach and can be used on both automatic and manual drain sprinkler systems, but it requires extra caution and the right equipment.

Manual Drain

• Locate the Drain Valves. Find the valves at the lowest points in your system. These valves are specifically designed to release water from the pipes.
• Release the Water. Open each valve slowly to allow the pressurized water to escape. It’s a good idea to wear safety goggles during this step, as water can spray out with force.
• Close the Valves Once Drained. When water stops flowing from each valve, close them tightly to prevent air or water from re-entering. Make sure to check all zones to ensure that no water remains trapped in the pipes. Even a small amount of water left in the pipes can freeze, so be thorough.

Automatic Drain

• Turn Off the Main Water Valve. Once the water supply is shut off, run one of the sprinkler heads to relieve pressure. The automatic drain valves will open to let out the water.
• Manually Check for Trapped Water. While the automatic valves will drain the majority of water, there may still be some left in areas like solenoids (small electric components that control water flow in the system’s valves). Loosen and check these areas to ensure all the water is removed.

Blow-Out Method

• Safety First. This method can be hazardous if not done properly. Always wear protective eye gear and hearing protection, as compressed air can force water out of the sprinkler heads at high speeds, potentially causing injury. Keep children and pets away from the area.
• Use the Correct Air Compressor. To use this method, you’ll need an air compressor that delivers at least 10 cubic feet per minute (CFM) of airflow. Be sure to adjust the pressure to suit your pipes – 50 psi for polyethylene pipes and 80 psi for PVC pipes. Using too much pressure can result in bursting pipes or damaged sprinkler heads.
• Blow Out the System. Start by attaching the air compressor to the system using the appropriate adapter. Begin with the sprinkler head farthest from the compressor and open the zone one by one. Gradually increase the air pressure to push the water out of the pipes. Make sure to wear protective goggles and stand clear of the sprinkler heads during this process.
• Double-Check All Zones. Move through each zone methodically, ensuring all water has been expelled. Any leftover water can freeze and expand, causing damage over the winter. Once the blow-out process is finished, go back and check each zone again for residual water.

Step 6: Clear Remaining Water and Insulate Exposed Parts

Once the draining or blow-out process is complete, it’s crucial to ensure no water remains in the pipes, valves, or sprinkler heads. Even a small amount of trapped water can freeze, expand, and cause cracks or leaks. After ensuring your system is free of water, consider insulating exposed parts such as backflow preventers, outdoor valves, and pipes.

Foam covers, insulation tape, or even straw can help protect these components from freezing temperatures. Be careful not to block any air vents or drainage outlets, as this can interfere with the system’s function.

A frozen septic tank can cause wastewater and sewage to back up into sinks, toilets and showers. If you’re experiencing these issues in the middle of winter, your septic tank could be frozen.

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Yes, sadly enough, your septic tank can freeze unless you’re proactive about preparing the pipes, tank and soil for freezing winter temperatures.

Can a Septic System Freeze?

Unless the system is buried deep enough in the ground, you can have a frozen septic system. Also, if you’re not home, it’s possible for the standing water in the drains, outlets and lines to freeze. Once that happens, your system may become blocked and frozen solid.

Can a Drain Field Freeze?

Once the bacteria in the septic tank have done their work, the wastewater runs into a drain field. This field plays a key role in further treating the effluent before it sinks into the soil and ultimately enters groundwater. For several reasons, the drain field may be close to the surface of the ground, and unless adequately insulated, it may freeze.

Conditions That May Cause Your Septic Tank or Drain Field to Freeze

Suppose you don’t take specific precautions during the installation of the septic tank, such as ensuring the tank is properly buried and exposed lines are insulated. In that case, it’s possible to get a frozen septic tank. Conditions that can lead to a septic tank freezing include:

• Shallow and uninsulated drain pipes.If the pipes from the house to the septic tank are uninsulated, exposed or just below the ground, they may freeze, preventing waste from entering the tank.
• Snow compaction over the tank and drain field.Soft, fluffy snow insulates, while compacted snow becomes ice. This allows the ground around the tank and drain field to freeze, ultimately causing a frozen septic tank and drain field.
• Limited use.Running water doesn’t freeze as easily as standing water. If you’re frequently away, the water in the pipes leading to the septic tank can freeze.
• A deep freeze.Unexpectedly cold weather, such as a polar vortex, can reduce temperatures to below the design parameters of the septic system, leading to freezing.

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Practical Tips to Prevent Septic Tank Freezing

With changing weather patterns, it’s vital to be proactive in maintaining the septic system correctly to prevent freezing. You can do most of this yourself, but you’ll need specialist help for some tasks. Here are six steps to keep your septic system healthy during winter.

• Pump out solids in spring.According to the EPA, you should get a septic service provider to remove solids from the septic tank every three to five years. Always do this in spring so the bacteria in the septic tank can reestablish before colder weather comes.
• Maintain healthy bacteria.Don’t dispose of chemicals, solids or cooking oil into the septic tank. These harm bacteria and clog up the tank. Never use antifreeze, as this is also harmful.
• Insulate exposed and shallow pipes and vents.Insulate all exposed septic lines, drains and vents. If the drain lines or tank are shallow or above ground, use heat tape and tank heaters to keep the temperature above freezing.
• Cover the tank and drain field with a layer of mulch.In autumn, cover the tank and drain field with leaves, hay or other loose organic material. This helps insulate and protect the tank and drain field from freezing.
• Maintain a regular flow of water into the septic tank.Help the bacteria thrive and prevent freezing with a regular flow of warm water into the septic tank. If possible, use hot water in your washing machine and dishwasher, but even a regular flow of cold water is beneficial.
• Don’t compact or clear snow above the septic tank and drain field.Remember, fluffy snow has great insulation qualities and prevents the ground from freezing, so avoid clearing snow or compacting it above the drain field and septic tank.

You’re feeling a little parched and go to pour yourself a nice, crystal-clear cup of … dirty, red water?! Rusty water isn’t just yucky to look at. It can also affect your skin, your plumbing fixtures and your clothes.

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Luckily, there are several ways you can deal with the problem yourself, and professionals are standing by just in case you need expert assistance.

Signs There’s Rust in Your Water or Pipes

The biggest sign that you have rusty water is having reddish water coming out of your faucets. Rusty water can also be a fainter yellow color — the more rust there is, the darker the color will be.

Rusty pipes may also cause:

• Water with a strange odor similar to rotten eggs
• Water with a strong metallic and/or salty taste
• Water that’s cloudy or has visible rust particles/chunks
• Low water pressure as rust builds up, clogs pipes and connections and restricts water flow

Is Rusty Water Harmful?

Drinking rusty water is gross — that telltale smell and taste is highly unpleasant. But it can also cause other issues. Rust in water lines can lead to:

• Staining where the water hits the bottom of a sink, shower or tub and pools
• Staining of clothes and plumbing fixtures
• Skin issues, such as excessive dryness, rashes or contact dermatitis
• Change in hair sheen and texture
• Off-tasting food, if you cook or wash produce with rusty water

A small amount of rusty water isn’t typically a major health concern. But there’s some evidence that rusty water can facilitate the growth of Legionella, the bacteria responsible for a serious respiratory illness called Legionnaire’s disease. Rusty water can also be dangerous if someone ingests enough heavily tainted water to accumulate a buildup of heavy metals inside their body.

Can You Fix Rusty Water on Your Own?

It’s possible to tackle the cause of rusty water on your own. There are a few easy ways to clear up your water and cleanse rusty pipes, depending on the severity and root cause of the issue:

Use a Specialized Water Softener

An ion exchange water softener relies on a special chemical process that swaps out hard minerals in your water for “softer” ions. This typically involves a resin bead-filled filter. Those beads are loaded with potassium and sodium that react to minerals like iron and trap them, leaving cleaner water to keep flowing through.

Install a Filter

There are also filters that can be attached to your main water supply to remove rust particles before the water hits your taps. These filters come in different pore sizes, so get professional advice — and you may also need pro installation — as to which size will give you the best results.

Flush or Replace Your Water Heater

If a rusty water heater is affecting your water quality, you can try draining it and flushing out any debris at the bottom of the tank. In fact, experts recommend flushing out your water heater at least once per year, which can keep rust from building up in the first place. If the unit is still rusty after you clean it out, it may be time to swap the old water heater for a new one.

Flush Out Your Pipes

Sometimes, turning on water lines after the system has been dormant for a while can kick up some sediment. The same goes for water lines activated after you’ve attached a new water supply. In both cases, simply running your taps wide open for a few minutes can get rid of the rust and give you beautifully clear water.

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How Does a Professional Fix Rusty Water?

If your rusty water problem is severe and you can’t fix it using the DIY methods above, it may be time to call in a professional who can use techniques that require licensing and pro-level equipment. An experienced plumber can:

• Install the new ion exchange water softener suggested earlier
• Upgrade your home to a whole-house water filtration system that has multiple spots where traps filter water and remove impurities
• Introduce an air-injection system that uses pockets of air to filter out dissolved iron
• Replace old or broken steel and cast-iron plumbing that’s more susceptible to corrosion
• Investigate to see if the rust is coming from the main water line (which may be your responsibility or the responsibility of the water company or local government, depending on where you live and what part of the main is affected)

There can be a certain level of frustration and a definite ick factor involved when your taps shoot out rusty water. But with so many quick fixes in play and expert assistance around the corner, you can get back into the flow ASAP.

If you work hard on your home’s landscaping, installing some kind of home irrigation system might be the best way to ensure your toils don’t go to waste. An irrigation system can keep your lawn green, your flowers and shrubbery thriving, and can even increase the value of your home. What’s more, new smart irrigation systems can connect with weather forecasts and use sensing technology to keep water usage to a minimum. Still, these systems can cost as much as $7,000 for professional installation, so deciding to put one in should be carefully mulled over.

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Here are some things to consider as you’re thinkin’ ’bout sprinklin’:

Do You Need a Sprinkler System?

It might seem like an obvious answer, but understanding your need for a sprinkler system is an important part of this process. You’ll want to take into consideration what your actual watering needs are. Do you live in a place that gets plenty of rain? Do you have a large lawn that needs coverage, or are there only a few areas that need consistent moisture? Is your yard planted with local vegetation that can withstand the weather fluctuations in your area, or do you have specialized plantings that need extra attention?

A good way to determine how often your grass needs water is simply to step on it: If it springs back, then it’s fine but if not, it needs to be watered. By conducting this simple test over a few weeks, you’ll get a sense of just how much of a water deficit there may be in your yard.

While installing a sprinkler system might seem like an efficient way to keep your plantings and grass healthy, according to a study by the American Water Works Association ( as reported by the EPA), the most water-efficient way to keep your yard at the proper moisture level is to use a hose. The group says that manually watering with a hose will use 33% less water outdoors than average household usage, while in-ground sprinklers cause 35% more usage. Even more surprising is that sprinkler systems on timers actually use 47% more water than normal.

That being said, if you set up and use your sprinkler system with water usage in mind, you can cut down significantly on the amount you use of this particular natural resource. Plus, if you’ve spent a good amount of money on your landscape, the extra water costs might outweigh the risk of losing precious grass or plants.

One of the key steps you can take to have a sprinkler system function properly is to set it up with zones — a specific set of water outlets to a specific area of your yard. That lets you give low-water usage plants less moisture, while delivering greater amounts to grasses or other plantings that need it.

Are You a Drip…

There are basically two types of irrigation systems for your yard: drip and sprinkler. Drip systems consist of a long stretch of either flexible or rigid tubing that runs to a specific part of your yard. The tubing can be either above ground or buried 2 inches below ground. Water travels through the tube and slowly leaks out into the surrounding soil, which has the benefit of feeding the roots of your greenery directly.

According to the AWWA, drip irrigation systems use just 16% more water than standard households versus 35% for normal sprinkler systems — so they’re also more water efficient. Part of the reason is that sprinklers broadcast water over a large area, which means some of that moisture is lost to evaporation; drip systems avoid this problem. That being said, drip systems are really best for watering specific areas of your yard, such as flower beds, rather than an entire lawn, which can be better served by the greater range of a sprinkler system.

According to Lawn Love, you can expect to pay an average of $223 to $2,000 (CAD 306 to CAD 2,745) per watering zone for a drip irrigation system with the tubing above ground, and about $815 to $4,335 (CAD 1,118 to CAD 5,950) per acre for a system with buried tubes, which is helpful if you’ll be mowing the area where it’s installed.

…Or Are You More of a Sprinkle?

The second major type of home sprinkler system is one that uses a series of sprinkler heads sunk in the ground and spaced apart to provide broad irrigation coverage. These systems consist of a main water line and a series of branch lines that travel to the individual sprinkler heads.

The ultimate cost of a sprinkler system is determined by a number of factors, including how easy it is to dig the trenches in your yard, how many zones and heads you’ll need, whether you’ll do the job yourself, and whether local building codes require you to hire a plumber to connect the system to your home’s water supply.

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DIY or Pro

According to data from Lawn Love, a professionally installed sprinkler system for an average yard measuring 1,000 to 3,000 square meters will run between $500 and $1,500 (CAD 700 and CAD 2,100). Doing the job yourself, however, would save significant cash, ringing up at around $130 to $260 (CAD 180 to CAD 360). If your landscape watering needs are relatively simple, or you only need to sprinkle a portion of your yard, you may very well wish to go it alone.

One important consideration to take into account before you begin is to measure your home’s water pressure, which you can do by attaching a pressure gauge to your hose bib. Most sprinkler systems best operate around 30 psi (pounds per square inch of pressure) or more, so if your pressure is lower than that, you’ll need a system designed for a more minimal flow.

Keep in mind that a pro may be able to bring benefits to the job that you might not otherwise be able to take advantage of. Pros know their way around local permitting laws, will work with a plumber if needed to get your system installed legally, and will be aware of which parts of your yard to avoid due to water lines or other utilities. A good irrigation system installer will also help you plan the number of sprinkler heads and zones you’ll need for your particular area of the country and the types of plants you have. If you’re still in the planning stages of your landscaping project, pros can also provide input in terms of what to plant where to minimize water usage.

Smart Vs. Not

Beyond choosing either a drip or sprinkler system, and choosing the right sprinkler heads for your needs (which are inexpensive at around $45 (CAD 60) for a pack of four), you’ll also want to decide what kind of control system you’d like your system to run off of. Thumbtack says this can be as simple as a heavy-duty sprinkler timer that clicks your system on and off at the same time each day — which could cost as little as $50 (CAD 70) for a six-zone controller — to a modern “smart” system that connects to the internet and special in-ground sensors to adjust your watering schedule based on weather forecasts and soil saturation. A smart sprinkler controller should run in the range of $60 to $300 (CAD 80 to CAD 415), depending on the features you need.

The number of zones you set up will also factor into the final cost for your project. According to HomeGuide, every additional zone you add to a system will run about $300 to $700 (CAD 415 to CAD 960) in extra expense.

All CAD conversions are based on the exchange rate on the date of publication.

Maintaining a comfortable temperature is the one job you require of your air conditioner, but high humidity can make you lose your cool — literally.

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Air conditioners don’t work as effectively when the air outside is muggy. Fortunately, there are a few things you can do to stay chill and comfy even on humid days.

Understanding Indoor Humidity

Humidity levels describe how much moisture is in the air, and ideal levels for home interiors are between 30% and 50%. High moisture levels can contribute to mold and mildew growth and lower indoor air quality, so keeping humidity under control is essential.

While your AC might struggle with high humidity, it also helps remove moisture from the air to combat excess humidity inside your home. If you live in a humid climate and your AC can’t keep up, you might need to take extra measures to control indoor humidity.

How Does Humidity Affect How an Air Conditioner Works?

In a humid environment, your AC works harder to maintain a comfortable temperature. Humid air tends to feel warmer, so your air conditioner has to cycle on more frequently to provide the same amount of cooling power.

Does an Air Conditioner Work Better in Lower-Humidity Environments?

In low-humidity environments, the air naturally feels cooler and your air conditioner doesn’t have to work as hard. This can extend the lifespan of the unit and put less stress on internal components. Because humidity affects how warm the air feels, your AC unit uses less power to cool dry air.

Does an AC Help With Humidity?

Your air conditioner helps reduce indoor humidity by pulling moisture from the air. This moisture condenses on the evaporator coil and drips into a collecting pan. In general, your house shouldn’t feel humid with the AC running.

Why Does My Air Conditioner Feel Like It Can’t Keep Up With High Humidity?

If you notice a decrease in performance of your air conditioner in high humidity, there could be a problem with the unit. Clogged drain lines, leaky ducts and frozen or dirty evaporator coils can all prevent your AC from effectively cooling humid air. You may want to call a professional for a tune-up if your air conditioner isn’t keeping up with high humidity.

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How Should You Maintain Your Air Conditioner in High-Humidity Conditions?

When it comes to regular maintenance of your air conditioner, high humidity presents a few challenges. The first step of AC maintenance in high-humidity environments is to clean or change the filters regularly. Anything that obstructs airflow can reduce AC efficiency, so clean filters help improve performance. Check the refrigerant levels if your air conditioner still seems to have trouble working properly in a high-humidity environment. Low refrigerant levels could hamper the AC’s ability to wick water from the air.

If everything is clean and working properly, try running your AC on low speed or setting the fan to auto. This slows the airflow and gives the evaporator coils more time to extract moisture.

What Else Can You Do to Remove Humidity and Improve AC Performance?

Humidity levels inside the home are a direct result of outdoor humidity levels. Keeping doors and windows closed while your AC is running keeps the air inside cooler and drier. If your home has chronic high humidity, check for cracks in the walls or foundation, drafty windows or insufficient door seals. Excess condensation on pipes, plumbing leaks and pooled water in basements also impact humidity levels. Sometimes a simple home repair can keep moisture out and make it easier for your AC to run efficiently.

Older systems may have more trouble dealing with high levels of humidity. In some cases, you might want to invest in a new AC unit with modern features designed to tackle excessive humidity. Mini-split systems let you maintain different temperatures in different parts of your home, and units placed high on a wall may capture more warm, moist air than traditional central air conditioners.

If your air conditioner doesn’t remove enough humidity to keep you comfortable, you may want to consider getting a dehumidifier. Whole-home dehumidifiers integrate with your existing HVAC unit to pull moisture out of the air as it flows through the system. Portable dehumidifiers decrease the humidity levels in a small space, such as a single room.

Every home has its own scent — good or bad — and having a home that smells good can be welcoming and cozy.

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Why Does My House Smell Bad?

First, you need to rule out the really bad smells. Sewage, sulfur and gas odors need to be addressed ASAP by a professional. These signal that there’s something wrong with your pipes, drains or gas lines.

While some house odors have an easy-to-track-down source (such as your furry friends’ dirty litter boxes, overflowing garbage or a bag of burned popcorn in the microwave), others seemingly come from nowhere. Musty or damp smells could be from mold and mildew. Stale odors can be the result of stagnant air, dust and humidity. Bad smells can come in from the outside, too. If you live in an industrial area or a farming community, icky scents can infiltrate your home.

Volatile organic compounds are the culprit for many unknown home odors. Volatile organic compounds are gasses that certain solids and liquids give off. The off-gassing of some products — like paint, adhesives and cleaning supplies — can be pretty obvious. But a variety of products can release organic compounds when you use them, and even in storage. Here’s a short list:

• Building materials
• Furniture
• Copiers and printers
• Paint
• Cleaning supplies
• Aerosol sprays
• Solvents
• Adhesives
• Air fresheners
• Cosmetic products
• Dry-cleaned clothes

But volatile organic compounds aren’t just stinky. Some can be chemicals (like benzene and formaldehyde) that are harmful to your health and impact indoor air quality.

10 Ways to Get Your Home Smelling Good

Let in Fresh Air

Opening the windows — as long as the weather isn’t too hot or cold — is a great way to make your home smell great. It lets in fresh, clean air from outside and can make it feel less stuffy. The natural scent of the outdoors can be especially pleasant if you have nearby flowers. Make sure your window screens are intact so you don’t let in any unwanted insects. Spread the fresh air around with floor and ceiling fans.

Regularly Vacuum Carpets

Carpet lasts between five and 15 years, depending on the material and how well it’s cared for. It also accumulates scents over time from spills, dust, odors and walking on it. Regular vacuuming and occasional shampooing can help keep your carpets smelling fresh. Sprinkling baking soda on carpets and rugs can absorb even more odors before vacuuming.

If your carpets are old, you might consider having a professional replace them. Replacing carpets has a big effect on the overall smell of a space.

Get Rid of Mold

No number of reed diffusers or air fresheners is going to put a dent in the smell of mold if you don’t do something about the root cause. If you can see the mold and reasonably clean it up (such as mold around porcelain bathroom fixtures), go ahead and do so. But if you’re smelling mold and mildew and you can’t see it, you’ll want to contact a mold remediation specialist.

Wash Curtains and Linens

Curtains can absorb bad smells over time, like unwashed clothes. They also tend to get dusty. Laundering your curtains can make a difference in the overall smell of your home. Make sure your curtains or drapes can actually be washed, as some materials may be dry-clean only. When you rehang them, use a garment steamer to get out any wrinkles.

On that note, you should clean any linens you have lying around. Blankets, duvets and bed linens can also trap smells. Launder them with pleasant-smelling dryer sheets or fragrant laundry detergent to get a lasting air freshener effect.

Put Baking Soda in the Fridge

Putting an open box of baking soda in the fridge can help absorb odors from food and keep your fridge smelling clean. You can use a traditional box of baking soda or one specifically made for fridges — it has a breathable panel on the side to freshen your fridge. Change it out once every three months or more often if you regularly store smelly foods, like fish.

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Run Lemons Through the Garbage Disposal

A kitchen sink with a garbage disposal is really convenient for cleaning up food waste and scraps. But over time, it can develop an unpleasant smell. To help counteract this and disinfect it, cut up a whole lemon and put the pieces through the garbage disposal while running cold water. The acid in the fruit helps disinfect internal parts, and the rind and citrus oils provide a pleasant, clean smell.

Consider an Air Purifier

Although air purifiers are more expensive than other ways to make your home smell better, they’re a great long-term solution. Air purifiers trap dust and other particulates and filter odors from pets, food, garbage and other unpleasant smells in your home. Some are small enough to sit on a tabletop, while others are designed for larger living areas. There are even whole-house options.

Make a Simmer Pot

One of the best home scents can be created with a little water and some ingredients you might have in your fridge. Slice a lemon, orange or lime and add it to some fresh herbs, like basil, mint or lavender, in a pot. Fill it with water and simmer it on your stovetop on very low heat. Slowly, over time, the scents from the citrus and herbs will infuse your house. Apples, cinnamon sticks and cloves are another great combination to make your house smell great.

Use Candles, Diffusers or Room Sprays

Sometimes, making your house smell better is about removing bad smells, but it can also be done by adding pleasant fragrances. Scented candles, reed diffusers and room sprays are all effective at making your house smell better. You can select your preferred scents — whether floral, fruity or clean — and they help create a cozy ambience whether or not you’re entertaining guests.

Beeswax and soy candles generally burn cleaner than traditional paraffin candles because they produce less soot, and diffusers can be used with essential oils. Room sprays work well in any room of the house, including bathrooms.

Be careful about mixing fragrances together to avoid your house smelling like a scented candle factory. And consider only using them when you’re not cooking in the kitchen, as fragrances from candles and scents from food can be unappealing when mixed together.

Cook and Bake

This one seems obvious, but cooking and baking are great natural ways to make your house smell great, even if it’s temporary. Sweet baked goods and fresh bread are some of the best appetizing smells, and savory smells can be enjoyed from seared meats and simmering sauces.

Turn on your kitchen faucet, and water flows like magic — but have you ever wondered about its journey to your glass? Whether it’s traveling through miles of municipal pipes or being pumped from deep beneath your backyard, your home’s water source plays a key role in your daily life.

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Understanding the difference between well water and city water might not seem exciting — until your morning shower runs dry or your coffee tastes a bit different.

What Is the Difference Between Well Water and City Water?

The fundamental difference lies in where your water comes from and how it gets to your home. City water is supplied through a complex infrastructure of treatment facilities and underground pipes. It undergoes rigorous treatment processes and is regularly tested by local authorities.

Well water comes from an underground aquifer accessed through your well. It provides nutrients and minerals since it’s naturally filtered through layers of soil and rock. While city water systems handle treatment and testing for you, well water leaves you responsible for water quality and system maintenance.

Key Differences Between Well Water and Municipal Water

Here are the essential factors that set these water systems apart:

• Treatment methods. Municipal water undergoes standardized treatment processes, while well water may require individual water filter systems.
• Testing requirements. City water is tested by authorities to make sure water is safe, but well owners must arrange privatewater quality testing.
• Infrastructure. City water relies on municipal pipes and systems, while well water depends on a water pump and private system.
• Emergency preparedness. Natural disasters like floods can affect both systems differently, requiring distinct approaches to water security.

Can All Houses Get Both?

Just like a municipal sewer or septic system and in-ground septic tanks, not every property has access to both options. Your location largely determines your available water sources.

City Water Pros and Cons

Does city water require a water pump? Not for you as a homeowner, because the city maintains the pumping system. Municipal water service is typically collected from surface water and is available in urban and suburban areas, though it requires your property to be within reach of existing water lines. While this service is common in more populated areas, you might find it limited or completely unavailable in rural locations.

Well Water Possibilities

There are several pros and cons of well water. Well water systems are most prevalent in rural areas where groundwater is accessible and property size permits drilling. While there are many well water advantages, local regulations may restrict well installation. These water well systems typically work in tandem with septic systems where municipal services aren’t available.

Is Well Water Free?

Do you pay for well water? While well water doesn’t come with a monthly water bill like city water, it’s not exactly free. The costs of well water systems fall into two main categories: installation and maintenance.

Well systems require initial drilling and equipment setup, followed by pump installation and home connection. Some properties may also need additional water treatment systems depending on water quality.

Maintaining a well system involves regular water quality testing, system maintenance and repair costs. Homeowners should also factor in electricity costs for running the pump and eventual equipment replacement over time.

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What About City Water?

City water systems provide certain conveniences but also come with their own considerations. Here’s what you should weigh when evaluating city water service:

• The benefits of city water include consistently treated and monitored water.
• Users enjoy reliable pressure and flow, and municipalities handle line repairs and maintenance.
• While convenient, city water comes with monthly bills and limited control over treatment methods.

Making the Right Choice for Your Home

Whether you’re using well water vs. city water, understanding the source helps you make informed decisions about your personal water use. It falls to you to select filtration systems, address specific water quality issues and ensure drinking water remains safe through proper maintenance and monitoring.

Both well water and city water can provide safe, reliable water for your home when properly maintained. Well water offers independence and potentially better-tasting water with natural minerals, while city water provides convenience and regulated safety standards. Understanding these differences helps you make the best choice for your situation or better manage the water system you currently have.

Remember that local regulations, environmental factors and your property’s location may influence or limit your options. Consulting with local water quality experts or municipal authorities can provide specific guidance for your area’s water systems and requirements.