Turning Up Your Water Heater at a Glance

• Step 1: Shut off power
• Step 2: Remove access panel
• Step 3: Pull back insulation
• Step 4: Adjust thermostat temperature
• Step 5: Replace insulation
• Step 6: Reinstall access panel
• Step 7: Turn power back on
• For gas water heaters: Relight pilot light

A hot shower after a long day is soothing, but if your water heater is set too low, that’s a comfort you may be denied. Proper water temperature isn’t just about comfort. If the water coming out of your tap is only lukewarm, it may not kill harmful bacteria or get your dishes clean.

This May Also Interest You: How Do I Turn My Water Heater On?

Adjust the temperature of your water heater by following a few easy steps.

Why Might You Need to Turn Up Your Water Heater?

Although most homeowners want hotter water because of personal preference, there are two main reasons to consider raising the temperature on your water heater’s thermostat:

Safety

If your water heater is set too low, it can create an environment that’s ideal for bacteria. Disease-causing microorganisms such as Legionella — which causes Legionnaires’ Disease — thrive in lower temperatures. SFGATE says some health experts recommend setting your water heater to at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit to minimize bacterial growth.

Cleaning

If your dishwasher doesn’t have a booster heater, it may require higher temperatures for optimal cleaning. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, the ideal range typically falls between 130 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

Where Is My Water Heater Located?

In most houses, the water heater is located against an exterior wall in the garage or basement. You may also find your water heater in several other common places:

• Utility closets
• Crawlspaces
• Attics
• Bedroom closets

How to Turn Up Your Water Heater

Depending on the type of water heater, the temperature interface may vary. Tankless heaters typically feature an easy-to-use digital control panel to set temperatures, whereas traditional electric or gas water heaters may feature a dial near the unit’s base that can be adjusted by turning it to the desired temperature.

Adjusting the temperature on newer gas or electric water heaters may be more involved and can be completed by following these simple steps:

1. Shut off power to the water heater at the circuit breaker.
2. Locate and remove the thermostat’s access panel.
3. Pull back the insulation.
4. Adjust the thermostat’s temperature setting using a flathead screwdriver. If your heater has two thermostats, both need to be adjusted the same amount, with the top thermostat set a few degrees higher than the bottom thermostat.
5. Replace the insulation.
6. Reinstall the access panel.
7. Return the circuit breaker to the ON position.
8. For gas water heaters, you may also need to relight the pilot light.

Before adjusting the temperature setting of any hot water heater, you should test the thermostat’s accuracy. To get an accurate reading, run hot water from the faucet nearest the heater for at least three minutes. Then, hold a cooking thermometer under the hot water stream to get a temperature reading.

After adjusting the thermostat, wait at least three hours and check the temperature again using a thermometer. If the temperature needs additional adjustment, repeat the appropriate steps.

More Related Articles:

• Your Guide to Draining a Water Heater
• How to Test a Water Heater Element
• How to Relight Your Water Heater’s Pilot Light
• Don’t Forget to Flush! A 6-Step Guide for Flushing Your Gas or Electric Water Heater
• How Much Does It Cost to Repair or Replace a Water Heater?

What Precautions Should You Take When Turning Up Your Water Heater?

Turning up the temperature on your hot water heater may have its benefits, but it can also cause safety risks. Water above 130 degrees Fahrenheit can scald you, and water above 140 degrees Fahrenheit can cause third-degree burns. Young children and the elderly are especially susceptible.

In extreme cases where the water in a heater tank reaches 212 degrees Fahrenheit, it can turn to steam, which can cause the tank to burst, potentially resulting in major injuries and severe damage. If your faucet is releasing steam instead of hot water, or if your heater’s T&P valve has escaping steam or water, shut down your unit immediately.

How Hot or Cold Does Your Water Heater Go?

Water heaters can typically be set anywhere from 60 degrees to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. However, some units feature dials that include settings ranging from “warm” to “very hot.” Most modern units have a default setting of 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

Will Turning Up Your Water Heater Increase Your Utility Bills?

Yes. The higher your water heater is set, the more energy you’ll use, resulting in higher utility bills. The opposite is also true. For every 10 degrees you lower your thermostat, you can save between 3% to 5% on energy costs. A smart water heater can also help improve energy efficiency.

What If Turning It Up Doesn’t Solve the Issue?

The thermostat setting isn’t always the cause of a lack of hot water. Other reasons for low or no hot water include:

• Sediment: Over time, sediment can accumulate in your water heater. If your tank isn’t drained periodically, it could lead to reduced efficiency and clogs that reduce the water temperature.
• A pilot light that’s out: On gas heaters, the pilot light can go out due to a breeze or downdraft, leaving your heater nonfunctional.
• Power surges: Power surges can interfere with your heater. If you’ve recently had a storm, turning your unit off and then on again may solve the problem.

Low water pressure in the shower is annoying. Some days, it seems like the water is just trickling out of the showerhead, producing hardly enough flow to rinse the shampoo out of your hair. If you have a low-flow showerhead, this problem is probably all too familiar to you. These showerheads limit the water pressure to save on water and energy costs — but if it costs you your sanity in the process, is it really worth it?

This May Also Interest You: Showerhead Stuck? Here’s How to Remove It

A quick internet search will reveal plenty of tutorials describing how to increase water pressure in the shower if you have a low-flow showerhead. However, using these DIY fixes could increase your utility bills and even put you on the wrong side of the law, as we’ll explain below.

What Is a Low-Flow Showerhead?

A low-flow showerhead is specially designed to use less water for cost and environmental reasons. According to Exelon, to qualify as low-flow, the showerhead should release water at a rate of no more than 2.5 gallons per minute.

Low-flow showerheads can save you a significant amount of money on your water and water heating bills. They’re also helpful for water conservation. Using less water during your shower helps reduce the amount of saltwater that needs to be desalinated for drinking and washing. The desalination process uses a lot of energy and is expensive, so reducing the need for desalination is good for the planet and could even lower taxes.

Why Does My Showerhead Have No Pressure?

If you’ve just installed a brand-new showerhead and find that the pressure is suddenly lower, it’s probably because you’ve purchased a water-saving showerhead. Check the labels around the rim, or perform the showerhead GPM test as described below. If the showerhead flow rate is lower than the legal limit in your area, you could consider replacing it with a more powerful one.

If you had water pressure problems before installing a new showerhead and the issue continues, the reason for your low water pressure could be down to blocked, leaking or damaged pipes or an issue with the shower controls. In this situation, it’s best to call a professional plumber to inspect your plumbing and repair any damaged pipes or mechanisms.

How Do I Know If My Showerhead Is Low-Flow?

Often, you can determine whether your showerhead is low-flow by reading any labels printed around the rim. If your showerhead is labeled 2.5 GPM or less, you have a low-flow showerhead. Any showerhead labeled 2.6 GPM or above is a high-flow showerhead.

If your showerhead doesn’t have a label, try this trick to determine the flow rate. Place a bucket or container with a 1-gallon marker under the showerhead. If your showerhead can fill it to the gallon marker in 20 seconds or less, it is high-flow. If it takes more than 20 seconds, it is low-flow.

More Related Articles:

• How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Showerhead?
• How to Replace a Showerhead
• Here’s How to Remove a Shower Drain
• How to Install or Replace a Shower Drain
• How to Replace a Shower Valve

How Do I Increase the Flow on My Low-Flow Showerhead?

Most low-flow showerheads have a rubber pressure-reducing valve (called a regulator) to maintain a lower pressure. You can increase the flow by simply taking it out. You could also consider enlarging the hole that allows water into your showerhead with a drill to increase the amount of water coming through.

Should I Remove the Regulator in My Low-Flow Showerhead?

The regulator in a low-flow showerhead limits the amount of water that can flow through it, reducing the pressure. Some people choose to remove the regulator to achieve less restricted water flow. While the obvious advantage of doing this is significantly higher water pressure, there are a couple of reasons why it might not be such a great idea.

The U.S. Department of Energy is likely to reimpose a legal flow rate limit of 2.5 GPM for showerheads as a part of its energy-saving efforts. The law was previously revised to allow for higher water pressure using multiple showerheads, but the Department of Energy has stated that it intends to return to the previous low-flow laws. Therefore, it’s a good idea to test your showerhead flow rate — especially after taking steps to increase the pressure — to ensure that it won’t fall afoul of federal law in the future.

Some states may impose tighter restrictions on legal showerhead flow rates, often to help maintain a steady freshwater supply during hot weather. For example, the standard legal flow rate in both Hawaii and Washington State is 1.8 GPM. It’s worth checking the restrictions in your area before tampering with your showerhead.

In addition, removing the flow regulator will also increase your overall water usage and the amount of power used for heating water, which is bad for your wallet and the environment.

Refinishing a Bathtub at a Glance

• Tools & Materials: Putty knife, screwdriver, masking tape, scraping tool, Lysol cleaner, palm sander, refinishing kit
• Step 1: Remove caulk
• Step 2: Remove drain and overflow plate
• Step 3: Clean and prep area
• Step 4: Prep coating
• Step 5: Apply coating
• Step 6: Add caulk

When your bathtub has grown old and becomes worn out, you might consider replacing it. Unfortunately, replacing a bathtub isn’t the easiest thing, and the costs can quickly add up. But getting rid of your old tub isn’t the only option if you want to make your bathroom look fresh. You can always refinish or reglaze the bathtub instead.

This May Also Interest You: How to Remove a Bathtub in 4 Simple Steps

Tub reglazing or refinishing costs significantly less than a full tub replacement. By applying a new layer of epoxy paint to your bathtub, you can make it look brand new again. Here’s how to do it.

What’s the Difference Between Reglazing and Refinishing?

“Reglazing” and “refinishing” both refer to the same process of restoring an old bathtub and making it look new again. You might hear some professionals call the process “refinishing” and others call it “reglazing,” but at the end of the day, they’re the same thing.

Can You Reglaze a Tub with Rust Spots?

As the topcoat of the tub deteriorates and exposes the metal surface, it can lead to rust. The continuous mix of air and water helps speed up the rusting process. Luckily, it’s entirely possible to still reglaze a tub with rust spots. You just need to sand it adequately before you cover it up with the new coating.

Refinishing a Bathtub: 6 Steps

Bathtub refinishing fumes can be harmful to people, so make sure you wear safety equipment and send everyone else out of the house when doing this. If you don’t feel too comfortable or confident with this project, it’s better to hire a professional that knows exactly what they’re doing.

Tools and Materials

You will want to wear safety equipment like gloves and safety glasses. Tools required for the job include a putty knife, screwdriver, masking tape, scraping tool, Lysol cleaner and palm sander. You can buy a bathtub finishing kit that comes with epoxy paint and application tools to apply it.

Step 1: Remove the Existing Caulk

Part of the process for reglazing is adding new caulk. You will want to remove any existing caulking around the entire bathtub. Use a scraping tool to scrape all around the tub, including the open side bottom, and remove all the caulk.

Step 2: Remove the Drain and Overflow Plate

One of the most common mistakes inexperienced DIYers make is leaving in the tub drain and overflow plate. You will want to remove these to get the most out of your refinish and ensure it lasts for years. To remove the overflow plate, use a screwdriver.

Removing the drain is a very crucial step to ensure you get a smooth finish. When the drain is not taken out, the area around the drain will deteriorate since it wasn’t adequately refinished. In the worst-case scenario, some of the coating may go inside the drain and cause issues.

To remove the drain, you can use a drain tool. If it’s an older drain, you’ll need to use pliers and force it out of there. After that’s done, add a cup below the drain hole so that when you apply the material, it falls into the cup rather than your pipes.

Step 3: Clean the Tub and Prepare the Area

You should clean the tub at least one day before you plan to do the refinishing. Any water that remains will make the process more complicated. To clean the tub, use a Lysol cleaner and spray it across the entire area. Then, dip the scrub brush in water, scrub the tub gently and wash it down with more water. After washing it, wait a day before proceeding.

Add cardboards or newspaper to the floors to catch any accidental spills and prevent stains. Tape around the tub. When you’re taping the open side of it, ensure that the tape on the bottom is also slightly taped to the tub instead of just the floor. When you tape the enclosed sides of the tub, you can just tape the tile. The benefit of cleaning the tub the day before is that it will be easy to tape around the area without worrying about moisture.

More Related Articles:

• How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
• How Much Does It Cost to Install or Replace a Bathtub?
• Scrub-a-Dub-Dub: How to Clean Your Bathtub
• How to Remove a Bathtub Drain
• How to Install or Replace a Bathtub Drain

Step 4: Prepare the Coating

If you ordered a bathtub finishing kit, you’ll have two containers. Part B is the activator which you will want to pour into the main base container. Then, use the stirring stick that comes with the kit and make sure the epoxy paint is thoroughly mixed.

As a side note, you shouldn’t use any mixing tools for this since mixers will bring in air and often lead to bubbles in the material, which is not ideal. It can only be done by hand, so do it gently. According to Home Repair Tutor, the minimum amount of time you should spend stirring is 10 minutes. It’s an essential step to get a quality finish. After you finish mixing, let it sit for another 10 minutes.

Step 5: Apply the Coating

Pick up the can and pour it onto the edges of the tub, letting it slide down them. Then, use a roller to distribute the material all around the tub. Ensure you gently spread it along the edges and let the material roll down the sides. The key here is to use the roller gently and let it spread the epoxy all around.

A scooper will come along with the kit that you can use to scoop the epoxy and add it all around the tub. You can also use a putty knife to apply the paint to other places if that’s easier. Make sure all the areas are covered, especially around the overflow plate and drain hole. Another common mistake is not getting the material into the corners, so make sure those are covered.

Since the material falls down the sides on both ends, use a scooper or putty knife to pick up large quantities before they build up on the bathroom floor.

Step 6: Add Caulk

Let the material sit for the next 24 hours before you apply the caulk. When you come back, the material around the caulking areas will have hardened around the tub, so use a knife or glazing tool to cut through it. After that’s done, remove all the tape and caulk the edges.

How Many Times Can You Reglaze a Tub?

While you might have done a perfect job refinishing the first time, things always become worn out after years of use. It’s possible to reglaze or refinish a bathtub that has already been refinished once. However, the underlying layer will require more preparation in terms of cleaning and sanding, so it’s best to let a professional do it the second time around.

As an alternative, you can always install a tub liner instead. A tub liner is a PVC sheet or acrylic mold that is added over your existing bathtub. You will also want a professional to do this job since accurate measurements are crucial for manufacturing one that fits well with the tub.

How Long Does Reglazing Last?

A reglaze can last anywhere from 10 to 20 years, depending on the quality of the job. Performing routine maintenance, like cleaning the bathtub, can help extend its life. A professional reglaze will also last longer than a DIY project.